A single subwoofer set up is ideal, given the amount of space in the trunk of the 8. Keep one of your 12's and find a nice amp to drive it, and you'll be fine.

 

I've watched this any many other threads about speakers vs. placement vs size vs. blah blah blah. To me I like a great sounding system and have the least amount of equipment in the chain to get the right sound. Bass may not be totally directional but many times the amplified volume/gain of the sub amp is totally disproportional to the component amps. In an ideal car audio setup this would be pretty much as "good" as it could get.

1 source with digital out
1 digital 1/3 octave eq left 31bands right 31bands with complete variable crossover points
1 4 channel amp digital
1 component set with one tweeter and 1 driver of around 10 inches or whatever size the could play down to bout 20hz (good luck)

Small signal path. Small amout of speakers with less chance of cancellation. This would play all the note we can hear.

But nevermind most ppl wanna ghetto it up with 10 12"s and if they're really ghetto they'll have their comp system with 15's 10's 12's and 20 tweeters.............

 

The problem is that there is nothing "ideal" about car audio. It's one of the worst environments to reproduce sound in. However, an "ideal" sound system would leave the EQ you referred to on the shelf and not in the car. Equalization is a subject of debate. It can help with tuning system, but at the same time, introduce unwanted noise. If you're objective is a perfect or near perfect sound curve in your car, then an EQ is definitely essential. My objective has always been to hear my music AS IT WAS RECORDED, so when attempting to achieve good sound quality, I choose the correct drivers for the correct locations, using the correct amount of power. After doing that, I let the chips fall where they may, with no equalization or noise to contend with.

 

I actually agree with becks. His sytem design is how almost all of the successful competition cars do it. Sure you might add noise to the system with more components. Wiring is everything and if you do it properly you won't have noise issues. The real worry is finding soneone that can actually tune it good. Anyone who is purely worried about how loud their subs will get will probably not like this system though. Different setups for different people.

FWIW: ALL subs can play to 20hz in ANY type of box regardless of tuning. To say that a certain speaker or box can't do it is wrong. The issue is at what db level will it play this note at? It is all about efficiency at a certain frequency and not the frequency itself. Just thought I'd throw that little technicality in.

 

My point on boxes was that bandpass boxes make subs acoustically louder than they really are. That is just their nature. Bandpass boxes produce "Bass" in a less than effiecent manner.

And just to point one thing out....there is no such thing as "bass" that is directional. Car speakers are directional, it has nothing to do with what frequency they produce. What everyone is refering to is sound despersion.....NOT DIRECTIONALITY.

 

Bandpass enclosures only make a sub "louder" at the frequency they are tuned for. The problem with bandpass enclosures is that the sub's performance at frequencies other than the tuned one, is below what it would achieve in a regular sealed enclosure. Every bandpass box has a tuned frequency, say, 80hz for example. The sub will be efficient and loud at that frequency, but it suffers in reproducing sound in a broader frequency range (above or below 80hz). So saying that bandpass boxes make subs "louder than they really are," is not completely accurate. They simply make a sub perform better a tuned frequency.

As for equalization, I agree most competition systems are using them, as they are necessary for adjusting the curve. However, through equalization, you are altering the reproduction of the way your music was originally recorded. Cars are imperfect atmospheres for sound reproduction, so equalization is many times necessary, because driver sizes and locations are always limited. The perfect car for a system would put no "limitations" on driver sizing and placement, but we all know that a sonically perfect car doesn't exist.

 

Ok so you devulged a little more than I did.....

 

Cars are really a pain to tune since your fighting against so many variables. I think one of the biggest challenges is to limit cancellation follwed by "establishing a center image " from either seat. All that music bouncing off the plastic dash etc makes for some long term tuning if you're into it. Then throw around terms like off-axis and stage height and depth etc. As for band pass enclosures I really think they basically suck. Too much of 1 set frequency and everything sounds out of wack. Also if you drive them hard you can hear the air being pushed out of the port which is annoying. I think sealed firing away from the listener is an auto's best bet but to each their own.

1. Tune the car dead flat on both left and right.
2. Then start from 20hz and roll off to 20k. The ear likes this curve: ~~~~~_________
~~~~~~~~~~~~
For this you really need an rta anylizer like Audio Control. They're pricey but will help out since you can't totally rely one your ear. Sorry to ramble on.

Here's my version of what I think a good system is. My lude did pretty good in Iasca.

http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/153580

 

What does the ear like????? The audiologist in me is curious???

 

alirhgt i guess ill sell my 2 12's..thats what i was thikin about doing too!thenks!