canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

I've been told my 2 10's are probably in the 145 to mid 150 range, but no official numbers yet. Maybe later on this year I'll take it through the lanes

And in most spl drag events I know of they either force you to wear ear protection or force you to stay outside the vehicle while it's cranked up.

phat8

i definetly do'nt drive around with this (SPL) set up. tried it once 4 fun, tuned it at my shop as i have a db metre. reasons why not 2. (1) weight, (2) harsh certain frequency tuned bass, (3) no boot, (4) looks terrible.

phat8

what subs r they?
the subs can probably do the number in the right application... but can the 8? take ur back seats out totally and fire the subs into the car, with the correctly tuned vented enclosure, batt and amp power u will maybe get a 150. i personally would'nt use a 8 4 spl applications this extreme.

Steakboy42

he's got soundstream refrences. i may be going to the same.

-Steakboy

Steakboy42

a buddy of mine's focus:







I think it pushed a 154 something

-Steakboy

Steakboy42

they're 8's made by elemental design. he ended up blowing a bunch of those subs. he took it all out now and is working on another setup, but i havn't seen it yet.

You'd be surprised how hard it is to increase db up that high. to put it into perspective, there was a truck there with 15 15's pushing 162.

-Steakboy

phat8

At that level it is difficult. the focus is so neatly done, nice! reminds me of my 1987 nissan with a wall housing 4 12'' pioneer tsw306c 1000w woofers running 2 powerbase d5000 amps in tandem @ 18v but in a vented enclosure pushing a 154,5 official best. why doesnt ur friend do away with 4 subs and go vented? he'll climb 2 - 3 db's at least... is he running std voltage or higher battery set up looks more than sufficient? ur car steakyboy, r u firing the subs into the cab or back?

phat8

backboard/parcel shelf still in? box vented or sealed? amp getting enough battery power? what guage cabling? hope i can help cos i've managed 2 build the loudest official 2 x 12'' sedan in SA @ a internationally judged enent pushing 152,5 so i got some ideas...

Steakboy42

I have a single 15 firing straight up. Look at the first post, I think there's a pic of it

-Steakboy

EDIT: Ooops, it's not, so here it is:



The box is the spec size for soundstream. the amp gets plenty of power and doesn't even get hot. The only reason why I get lowish numbers is simply the amount of air getting into the cabin. I'm going through a very small opening because of the box size.

phat8

im sure i can help the idea is better than firing back blocking more air flow, 1st those power cable, batt specs? and is the amp a 1/2/4 ch. sub dvc/svc? do u drive with ur back arm rest out?

Steakboy42

The amp is a soundstream PCA1500D. max power is 1500Watts. the battery cable is 2 GA I think. it is a monoblock amp. The sub is a Soundstream Tarantula T4-15. 1000 watts RMS, 2500 Burst. The box itself is 4.25 cu/ft with 3" X 3" Ports. I like to drive with the passthrough out usually, and it's definately out when doing a comp. I'm pulling off the stock battery with no or very little dimming.

-Steakboy

ricky356

dude the setup is nice...but if you want to win spl you should take out the back seat make a baffle board across where the seats were. and put three of them subs facing directly into the cabin. if you want to win spl....or unless your trying to win a specific class of spl. 136 for 1 15inch sub isnt bad. but if you want to make heart skip beats its gonna take a bit more. and a setup in the trunk isnt gonna cut it.

plus do you even have capacitors?? upgraded altenator?? everything dynomated?? and i mean everything....firewall, doors, roof, ...did you strap down the trunk lid?? you may not think your drainig power just because your lights dont dim that much but you may be down around 10 volts...and if your amp is rated 1500@ 14.4 volts it may only be pushin 1000 if that.

phat8

if ur sub is a dual 4 ohm sub and is wired up in parallel, ur only using half the power of ur amp. so either u need 2 get a dual 2 ohm sub or recoil ur s.stream dual 2 ohm 2 make that amp work. ''or'' another s.stream sub dual 4 ohm then the amp will b running at full power. then u can run the 2 firing in 2 the car with the seats out. but if ur gonna run 1 sub the best would b 2 fire it back with a vent with the seats out so it can hit the back wall of the car and deflect back past the box and into the car. the dynamat u can get away with 4 now would'nt bother with a cap, rather invest in a strong battery or two. all depends what class u wanna fall into as RICKY356 said. firing into a car u haved 2 have at least 2 subs vented and lots of power 2 back u up. firing back u can do with 1 sub or 2 if there is enough space for the bass 2 come past the box in ur case not, if u had 10''s it would b perfect. firing up in ur case 'no' unless u had no back board and spkrs etc., in hatch backs perfect. hope this info is of use.

Steakboy42

Like I said before, I'm gunna be changing it up. I'm gunna leave the cabin of the car as stock as possible (no removal of seats).

As it is, the setup is nice for 2 reasons.
1) it looks amazing and is very eye catching.
2) it sounds very clean for every day use, and can get decently loud.

the setup sux for 2 reasons.
1) it wont win class comps.
2) i have no trunk.

All of your advise is great and appreciated. I will take all of it under consideration when I redesign my system with 2 reference 10's.

BTW, Phat8:
The sub is a dual 1-ohm sub. actually, here's the specs:

Soundstream T4-15 15" Dual 1-ohm Subwoofer
RMS POWER: 1000 Watts

* 15" Cast Aluminum Basket Woofer
* Dual 4-Layer, 1-ohm Voice Coils
* Cloth Laminated Paper Cone with MD6 coating
* Stone Gray Finish with Diamond Cut Edge
* Hi Arc, High Excursion Surround
* Chrome Plated Back-plate
* Low Carbon Top and Pole Piece
* Triple Stacked Magnet Structure
* Vented and Extended Pole Piece
* Black Progressive Roll CONEX Spider
* Woven Tinsel Leads
* Gold-Plated Binding Posts
* BAEISV Hybrid Voice Coil Former
* C- Lock Rubber Gasket
* Rubber Magnet Cover
* VOICE COIL DIAMETERS: 4.0"
* MAGNET WEIGHT: 250 Oz.
* FREQ. RESPONSE: 20 - 1k (Hz)
* Fs: 34 (Hz)
* Qes: 0.449
* Qms: 3.722
* Qts: 0.401
* Vas: 2.08/58.77 liters (Ft3)
* Xmax: 0.551"
* SPL: 91dB
* HOLE SIZE: 14.25"
* WOOFER DEPTH: 8.25"
* RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE: Ported 4.25 (Ft3)
* RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE TYPE: Vented
* AEROPORT DEMENSIONS: 3" x 3" (Two)

-Steakboy

ricky356

i think your using your sub effieciently for the volume your getting. but if you want to win spl??? i mean those guys build there cars around there speakers. the 8 s to nice for that. if you get those references compete for sound quality.

phat8

I agree. U either want spl or sq. this is my way of getting the best of both. The sub u got being dual 1 ohm is not the ideal configuration cos if it's a dual 1 ohm if u parallel it will basically b a dead short, which will keep ur amp going in to protection or even blow. so u series it being 2 ohm if u running a monoblock u using half it's power being a 1 ohm stable amp probably why ur lights do'nt dim much. If using a 2 or 4 ch amp, bridged the amp will also do as said cos the amp sees 1 ohm. The best advice to get bass into your 8 with out removing seats and still having a good looker is if u do change ur set up... get two 10''s or 12''s and build a enclosure as close to the sub as possible horizontally and vertically just make it pretty deep to get ur required volume. positioned behind the seats facing the back of the trunk with a sub on the far left and far right with a opening in the centre the size of the opening where the clip out panel is. doing this u'll b creating a loading effect in the trunk and the bass will build up and reflect through the opening and into the cab. now ur probably blocking a good portion of the opening. tried and tested, works great and the frequency coverage is good. keep me posted when u get ur new subs.

phat8

same advice i gave above... hope it helps, let me know.

phat8

will post pics of my install soon, currently busy on it...