diem

Interesting scenario just happened to me.

I was at the car wash and turned my car completely off. It was fine. I then started it and pulled it into the wash bay and turned it off. When I did that, my sub in the back came on with a steady hum that was very loud. I had to unhook my amp for the time being.

What could cause that? It is doing it every time now. It sounds normal when the car is powered over or on.

I did just earlier get my 4080 box mounted up, and the mounting tab is ultimately touching the metal chassis, but I don't see how this could cause it. Any ideas?

jstkilntim

I would start by checking your remote on wire. Is it turning off when the car does?

diem

Hmm well oddly enough I unplugged the RCAs and plugged them back in and it isn't doing it now.

diem

It did it again, so I figured I would play around.

When I open the trunk lid, it stops. Is that metal tab that is touching the metal drawing some sort of current causing the sub to give me a steady hum? Should I try wrapping that metal tab in black electrical tape?

diem

I also did it again, and saw that the amp light is still on until I open the lid, and then it turns off.

Could the metal tab be drawing current causing the amp to be powered on?

rx8guy86

Where did you tap your remote wire?

diem

The wiring was already installed neatly when I got the car. I did not have a problem until I positioned the 4080 box though.

I'm gonna take it out and try covering the metal tab in hopes that it is drawing current.

lurch519

the metal tab is not the issue.

is there an amp turn on lead, or does the amp turn on via signal sense, ie when it senses an audio signal?

does it do it only when you shut the car off, or does it do it when you open or close a door?

diem

I don't believe it turns on when it senses an audio signal, but I could be wrong. The amp is an Alpine V-Power.

It only does it when I shut the car off, and returns to normal as soon as I flip the key over. It quits when I lift the trunk lid.

lurch519

sounds like your amp turn on lead is staying on, and the hi/lo is connected to the rear speakers. when the speakers move, it sends a signal to the amp, which amplifies it and sends it to the subs. with the trunk closed, when the subs move, they move air which then moves the rear speakers, which then sends a signal to the amp, which amplifies it and sends it to the subs. when the subs move, they move air which then moves the rear speakers, which then sends a signal to the amp, which amplifies it and sends it to the subs. when the subs move, they move air which then moves the rear speakers, which then sends a signal to the amp, which amplifies it and sends it to the subs. when the subs move, they move air which then moves the rear speakers, which then sends a signal to the amp, which amplifies it and sends it to the subs. when the subs move, they move air which then moves the rear speakers,


whoops, sorry bout that, got caught in a loop, like your system.

diem

Wow, that was confusing!

So is there an easy way to defeat that?

lurch519

yes, again, check to make sure whether or not the remote turn on lead turns off when you turn the car off. get a digital multimeter, or even an automotive test light, disconnect the remote lead from the amp, then check to see if there is voltage on the wire. if there is, find a switched ignition to hook the lead to

diem

Obviously, I would need to check it with the trunk closed, correct? I did it with the trunk open and there is no power to the remote with the key off.

marvin_rock

Bass fart. Mine does it on very very rare occasion (like less than once every 3 months). Run your remote wire into your rear cigarette lighter wire. Works wonders.

lurch519

nah, i just cut and paste real well

diem

It appears that the remote wire is ran to the stinger LOC

Should I rerun it tomorrow?

lurch519

if thats convienent for you

diem

Well I am not very efficient with car audio and don't know of any other solution.

I assume it won't affect the LOC if I snip the wire and reroute it.