0 gauge wire in the 8? any body ever done?
#1
0 gauge wire in the 8? any body ever done?
Hey guys just wondering if any of you used 0 gauge wire in the 8. Im about to start on my install, I pulled out the 0 guage that used to be in My millenia, And I wanted to re use it in my 8.
If any of you guys had used it before, let me know if any issues with bulging etc... It was quite simple in the millenia, took me about 15 mintues to run it...
Kris
If any of you guys had used it before, let me know if any issues with bulging etc... It was quite simple in the millenia, took me about 15 mintues to run it...
Kris
#2
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its not bad really, and if you do a search, i am sure you would find your answer, as i did. and yes, i ran 0 guage in my 8, actually 2 runs. one for power, one for ground. both down the passenger side.
#5
unless you really need it, I'd just go with 4 gauge, but either way we ran mine w/o issue (it wasn't 0 gauge) Just remember the normal stuff, keep it seperate from your rca's etc etc
#6
Hey Guys, Im planning to run it down the drivers side... As it wont require any drilling etc...
Im running an MB Quart QAA1000 and QAA4250. I will need the 0 gauge for sure..
Below are some pics of my old setup in my millenia, it was retired in third place in IASCA SQ in Canada.
My system consists of the following.
2 x JL 10W7's
MB Quart QAA 4250 and 1000
DLS IR 8.3 ( 8 inch 3 way set)
Navone LOC into Alpine PXA H701.
Canary did you run it down the drivers side or the passenger side?
Kris
Im running an MB Quart QAA1000 and QAA4250. I will need the 0 gauge for sure..
Below are some pics of my old setup in my millenia, it was retired in third place in IASCA SQ in Canada.
My system consists of the following.
2 x JL 10W7's
MB Quart QAA 4250 and 1000
DLS IR 8.3 ( 8 inch 3 way set)
Navone LOC into Alpine PXA H701.
Canary did you run it down the drivers side or the passenger side?
Kris
#8
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Run it down the passenger side. Remove the washer fluid resevoir as that is were the wire needs to pass through the firewall. Matter of fact due to the known issues of grounding in this vehicle, should you want to run two lines of 0 gauge, they both will pass through at this spot with ease. I might have some pics of this somewhere if you need them. One line runs down the passenger side of the car, no bulges at all. The other line runs down the center of the vehicle, again no bulges at all.
As far as power wires running beside a rca cable etc, current has a frequency of 0 hz, how on earth can something that has zero frequency interact with something that has a bandwidth of say 20-20000hz? Myth busted.
As far as power wires running beside a rca cable etc, current has a frequency of 0 hz, how on earth can something that has zero frequency interact with something that has a bandwidth of say 20-20000hz? Myth busted.
#9
Registered User
forbidden,
Yes, power lines are DC voltage/current but they will also have some level of alternator whine superimposed on them which is very much AC and is very much in the audible range.
Having power lines next to RCAs can in some cases cause capacitive or inductive coupling. It is very rarely a problem but it can be. RCA signals derived from passive LOCs are most likely to be suseptible to interference.
A good Audio Control line driver pumping out 4Volts RMS with low output impedance would likely not have any such problem with high current power lines being close by.
-Mr. Wigggles
Yes, power lines are DC voltage/current but they will also have some level of alternator whine superimposed on them which is very much AC and is very much in the audible range.
Having power lines next to RCAs can in some cases cause capacitive or inductive coupling. It is very rarely a problem but it can be. RCA signals derived from passive LOCs are most likely to be suseptible to interference.
A good Audio Control line driver pumping out 4Volts RMS with low output impedance would likely not have any such problem with high current power lines being close by.
-Mr. Wigggles
#10
Originally Posted by lurch519
its not bad really, and if you do a search, i am sure you would find your answer, as i did. and yes, i ran 0 guage in my 8, actually 2 runs. one for power, one for ground. both down the passenger side.
You just doubled your loss, amongst other neato esoteric issues.
Ground at the chassis as close as possible..im guessing this was a battery relocation job..in which case _yes_ ground the battery as close to the new install position as you can. But even if it isnt for a battery..ground that "install" of whatever it is to chassis right there.
#11
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys
Why in hell would you run a _ground_?
You just doubled your loss, amongst other neato esoteric issues.
Ground at the chassis as close as possible..im guessing this was a battery relocation job..in which case _yes_ ground the battery as close to the new install position as you can. But even if it isnt for a battery..ground that "install" of whatever it is to chassis right there.
You just doubled your loss, amongst other neato esoteric issues.
Ground at the chassis as close as possible..im guessing this was a battery relocation job..in which case _yes_ ground the battery as close to the new install position as you can. But even if it isnt for a battery..ground that "install" of whatever it is to chassis right there.
#12
I have well over $25,000 invested into my Jeep system done by a bay area professional installer. John Bascom and his crew are solid contacts and dont play loose.
Guess what, rear chassis ground, zero noise, zero issues, zero filters, been solid as hell for the past 6 years since it was installed and upgraded as ive wanted to add other minor features.
In doing rear battery installs in my race cars, anytime I bothered to run ground back to the front, everything ran slower. Starter, fans, and engine..about 50rpm. Thats in the rx7s, the Celica GT4, and the supra. Did each with that separate 0ga ground just to satisfy my curiosity.
Nothing ever ran bad with a direct shortest path ground, only worse in very quantifiable ways.
Guess what, rear chassis ground, zero noise, zero issues, zero filters, been solid as hell for the past 6 years since it was installed and upgraded as ive wanted to add other minor features.
In doing rear battery installs in my race cars, anytime I bothered to run ground back to the front, everything ran slower. Starter, fans, and engine..about 50rpm. Thats in the rx7s, the Celica GT4, and the supra. Did each with that separate 0ga ground just to satisfy my curiosity.
Nothing ever ran bad with a direct shortest path ground, only worse in very quantifiable ways.
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Again just to re-iterate incase you did not read the thread. A good ground is not about the shortest chunk of wire to a clean spot of paint. It is about the resistance through the return of the vehicle. Is a Jeep a RX8, no and as such it is not a vehicle to compare to at all. Just because one shop does it this way does not mean that it is correct. The correct method of grounding is the one that has as low a resistance on the ground return as possible. This vehicle has a known bad grounding plane due to spot welds and glued together unibody panels, this all adds up to a higher than wanted resistance on the ground return. There are two ways to do things, the assumed correct way and a verified way. It is in every persons and shops best interest to verify the return, then allow the customer to make the call as to whether or not they want it done.
As far the noise on a power wire goes, yes it can be there if you have a bad alternator, bad regulator or bad battery. All things being equal, if there are no issues with these items, you should have no noise.
As far the noise on a power wire goes, yes it can be there if you have a bad alternator, bad regulator or bad battery. All things being equal, if there are no issues with these items, you should have no noise.
Last edited by forbidden; 10-16-2006 at 02:32 PM.
#14
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I ran 0 down my driver side and did a ground in the trunk. I measured and it was low - can't remember the exact number now. Apparently I got lucky. I've had no problems with my system since installing it.
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