cas2themoe

I had my amp and sub put in a week ago. But every time I turn it up to like 17 or 18 it just cuts off. Does anyone know why it is doing this and how to fix it? It an JL 500/1 Amp with JL wires running to it. The stereo in the car is the stock Bose system. I guess they converted it to work some how. Hopefully you can help me out. I really don't feel like bringing it back into the shop. Any help with the sound settings on the amp would help too I guess.

I'm not too good with systems in cars. Thanks in advance for any help.

Here are some pics:

WikkedOne

I don't know about getting the signal from the BOSE system but the first thing that comes to mind is that when you turn it up your amp gets too much input and shuts off to protect itself

and I think you have some setting set wrong this are the changes I think you should make -- guys back me up on this

Turn the "Q" up to 3 or 4 and then adjust the "bass boost" to compensate for the loss
"Q" being the level of input to the amp (.5 being loudest) and boost being how much boost is givin to the signal

I would also turn the "filter freq" up to about 100 or maybe more. thats not to help your problem but my personal preferance (mine is 160) that tells the amp what frequncies to play.. but then again the bose might be able to handle those "high end lows" better than my system...

I'm pretty sure those settings will take care of it. Do the rest of the guys here agree?

Tigerfootball

what kind of LOC was used? where was it tapped? that may be where the problem lies. you may be better just taking it to the shop and have them fix it. hopefully they guarantee their work and won't charge you any more to look at it and fix it for you. good luck

cas2themoe

I just want to make sure. I'm sure its something to do with the settings because it works great fine until I turn the radio up. Then it just cuts off and will come back on after like 10-15 seconds. I'm going to go out right now and try what you said. I'l let you know what happens.

lurch519

that is incorrect. the Q setting adjusts the width setting of the bass boost. it has nothing to do with the level of anythingl. when you add x amount of boost at a particular frequency, in your case about 10db of boost at approx 40hz, the frequencies on either side of the 40 hz are also affected, and the Q adjusts how far out to either side it goes.

now you are saying you dont want to go back to the shop that did your work, but if there is a problem with the actual install, then the shop should stand behind their work and provide a warranty. plus if you get in and start messing with stuff, they might void that warranty on the install.

also, where did you purchase your equipment. there may be a problem with your amp or sub. what sub are you using.

the last thing i can think of is there may be a voltage drop somewhere, basically the amp running out of gas.

cas2themoe

I got everything from the same place. They only deal with high end electronics. I don't think its a wire problem, just something to do with the amp config. I went out and did what he said and its stopped. I drove around for 20 mins and it only happened 1 time when I turned it up to 20. And that was for only one heavy bass song. The rest of the songs I could play on volume 20 with no problem. So what he said did work. Before I could only turn it to 17 or 18 and it would cut out.

Could this be something to good to get? I want to keep everything in the JL family. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=94

WikkedOne

I stand corrected. That was explained to me wrong a long time ago, you never stop learning new things I guess.

I still believe that it is going into protection mode because the input is too much. Instead of changing the "q" change the "input sens" **** counter clockwise and the boost to compensate.

if it won't turn any more counter clockwise then flip that switch to "high" and then turn the **** clockwise untill the volume is where it was before the switch. (this is the most likely solution to your problem IMHO)

I wouldn't believe that a sudden "voltage drop" would cause the amp to shut off before some noticable distortion around 15 or 16 before it shuts off

but if that doesn't help then take it back to the shop that installed it. They will almost definatly stand behind their work.

cas2themoe

Does anyone think this would be good to buy?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=94

forbidden

In this car, nope. Use the Audio Control6XS instead.

WikkedOne

update? is it fixed.. what did you do? or going to do? what worked and what didn't? don't leave us hangin

and yeah now that I know what the Q does.. i don't understand anymore.. LoL because when i turn it UP (to 20) on mine everythings gets softer... and when i turn it down (to 2) everything gets louder.. It doesn't have anything to do with the width of boost at all.. the boost completly goes away when i turn it up.... so instead of screwing something up I'm just going to leave it half way and forget about it...

cas2themoe

Everything is working good now. It has only cut off on me once in the last few days and it came right back on after like 5 seconds. So I guess that worked but I may need to adjust it a little more so that it will never cut off again.

jstkilntim

It is a long shot, but if it happens again, try powering up using a regular remote on instead of the automatic signal sensing.

slllygrl10

Try this settings since we have the same amp http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Ajax

your input sensitivity is probably way too high and your bass boost should be at 0 when tuning this amp.
I would get out the amp manual and get a volt meter and follow the directions on how to properly adjust the input sensitivity.

Silly,
How does that setup sound? i have the exact same amp/box as you but I have my settings different at the moment, but quite close.

WikkedOne

if his sensitivity is too high then he shouldn't need any boost right?

canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

if it's cutting out it is probably an impedance problem, I had an older Coustic amp that was supposed to be 1 ohm stable, well it turned out it wasn't as my speakers were in parallel down to 1 ohm and it would cut big time, it would do ok at lower volumes as well, but even with the gain turned down to almost nothing it would still clip out once the I cranked it up. Why is your remote turn on lead not connected by the way? i noticed the power, ground, but then the remote is empty? I have the factory Bose tapped into with a Soundstream class D and we still use the remote turn on located on the amp. I'd check to see how your subs are wired, make sure you have a good ground, and double check everything else going to the LOC. Might want to try wiring them in series just to see if it still happens afterwards.

lurch519

there is no remote lead connected because the jl amplifier has what is called signal sensing. when y ou turn on the car, the amplifier senses that the radio is on via the input on the amp

slllygrl10

The bass is alot better with the settings I have now

canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

ahh ok, don't know much about their stuff, thanks for the info.

Ajax

Pretty much..
When I first got my amp/sub, the guy who tuned it set the sensitivity so high that at volume 3, I had full bass. You couldn't even hear the trebel at that volume. As you turned it up, it totally began to clip out. I took it home, read the manual and retuned it properly. It sounds great, but I don't use most of the extra features of the amp beyond the RBC-1.

cas2themoe

****Update****

I fixed the problem a while ago but wanted to give u guys an update. I put a capacitor on it and have had NO problems. I can turn the amp all the way up of I want to(but wouldn't cause that would blow my ears out). lol

Just wanted to let u guys know just in case anyone else was having the same problem.