Ok guys I know Im old and half crazy but---- i bought a unit from adrian and that was cool good person to buy from but im a little confused. my unit has the switch it is the 1.1 version.I have the L flash. my question is the damn switch has a letter"O" toward the FRONT of the car and the letter "I" toward the rear of the car! I of course ran the car with the switch on toward the back(seemed stronger in the rpms lower that 7k) and then with the switch toward the front of the car (it seemed stronger OVER 5-6k than with the switch toward the rear of the car but weaker at the lower rpm's. RAZZER FRAZZER STORT FRUMB A MITTLETANBUM ETC___!! Which is which? I really can't tell! I know instructions say swith is turned on when it is toward the rear of the car but what the heck does the letter "I "stand for? The letter "O" can be "on" or "off"
help
olddragger

 

Like any standard electronics and computers devices, the "I" is "In" mean in contact or ON and the "O" is "Out" mean out of contact or OFF.

 

I reinstalled mine jsut now in the dark.. I have never noticed those two yellow lights before..

the one on the right (me facing the vehicle) is blinking.. is that normal?

The car seems to be working fine.

 

thanks sq88. i appreciate the support you are giving us senior citizens!
olddragger

 

Is the switch on the "fender side" (when unit installed)? Hidden inside? If so, it's one of the new ones. Yes, the switch is on when towards the front of the car. Opposite from the previous models. That's what happens when you let a computer design your PC boards for you!

 

RX8 FRIEND,
no the switch is toward the "motor side". Does get confusing doesn't it! Anyway, just got the M flas as apposed to the L one. It did make a lot of differance. Much smoother now and no more mini hesitations over 6k. But back to the thread. As stated it;s a a tight (the unit) fit in the stock box. It really gets hot in Ga in the summer. For example when I open the hood and lift the hood bar it's so hot that it is really close to burning your fingers.I took the foam out as suggested but Im still a little leary about the heat. I wonder if a supplemental fan could be placed at the ait vent side of the box somehow sorta like a P.C. fan? Or do we need the bottom part of the plastic cooling sustem at all? Could that be taken out to make more room? I know its close to 150-175 degrees in there. Ideas all? Or is this a mute point as the electronics can hangle this ok. Er -gotta go just swallowed my tobacco!
olddragger

 

Maurice's company (Harddata) makes Linux servers/clusters for research institutions. The latest craze (well, a year or two ago latest craze) was "1U" chassis - that's the smallest rack height size possible. In those chassis Maurice uses 6-8 "little screamers" - high speed small diameter fans that are loud! I keep trying to convince him we should put one of those in the stock PCM cooler duct. It would sound cool, and probably make the PCM much cooler too.

I do think it's getting rather hot in there - Maurice's was almost too hot for my fingers when I removed his last week to test the latest batch! We haven't had any problems yet with heat failure, but in my experience, if it's too hot to handle, it's too hot for the electronics. Funny part is it is just as hot or hotter without the Canzoomer unit in there (stock cooling plastic). Removing the upper plastic and foam filters should improve the cooling quite a bit. I have a thermocouple temp gauge built into a digital meter.

I'll do some temp measurements eventually, both on the PCM and the ignition coils, which seem to be heat failing even in "stock" cars. The rad. air is blowing right on them!

 

rx-8 friend

I concur. If its too hot to handle it needs attention. I really like the fan idea. Iv's seen some that have led ligts etc that with a little imagination would really look cool(and as you stated sound cool). Could it be controlled by a thermostat?
o the stock unit gets that hot also? Then extra room in the box shouldnt help. Sounds like 2 choices
1-power vent
2-cut the top cover to open it up(hmm dont like that idea)
Looking forward to the temp readings you get. Remember in the south the temp in the summer gets to be 101-102 at times.
thanks man
olddragger

 

It was 98 at my house today. With the extra heat of the rotary to begin with, I would think that something would need to be done. I have been concerned about the computer being under the hood all along.

I got that concern from my 78 A36 Plymouth Fury. It had Chrysler's Lean burn spark control computer hanging off the side of the air cleaner. Problem was that on the 440 the air cleaner was so big that the computer hung right over the exhaust manifold. After replacing 2 under warranty and paying for another one, I made a 10 foot extension cable and moved it up behind the front bumper. No more problems.

If we could address this with some type of fan/cooling mod, I think it would go a long way.

 

I don't think cutting the top cover is a good idea, as I've noticed that my CZ unit gets even hotter when I do tune/test/tune runs without the top ECU cover in place. It would also be a guaranteed warranty-voider, as even the densest Mazda service tech couldn't miss it.

But, hmmmm. Maybe a second ECU cover could be purchased and a small fan mounted in the middle of it? Have to check into that...

 

I think an ECU fan (computer type) in the outside vent tube would go a long way to solving this. The outside (left as you face the engine compartement) tube is the air intake. The right one goes to the airbox. Bonus, you end up with forced induction . For those not getting my joke, you don't because any extra air would just go out the air intake opening to the airbox.

Mazda's idea is that there is a slight vacuum in the airbox, so air will be pulled into the outside tube and out the inside tube - airflow. Trouble with their idea is the air was trapped in a plastic "container", whose walls have poor heat conductivity. Not the best method to cool electronics. I suppose they were worried about dust and insect buildup inside the box. So far we haven't seen that here.

 

Finally installed my stage 1 box ... can you believe I've been sitting on it for about a month trying to find time to install the damn thing?

Anyway, a few comments from a true novice for other novices out there. I have never installed anything in the engine bay of a car. I did change the brake pads on an old Pontiac once ... although if I remember right I did manage to lose one of the little retaining springs on that job. Anyway, my point is that this install procedure went slick. 60 minutes in and out. Some trivial observations that might help out similarly unqualified installers out there (you know who you are):

- go to Pep Boys, Canadian Tire, or similar and buy some filter foam before the job (available in thin grey sheets). You will need this for the job. You don't need much, one little sheet is plenty.
Will cost you about a buck.
- I was unable to get at the underside of the plastic clips that attach the wires to the ECU cover. I left this step until after the cover was removed.
- when taking the ECU cover off, in addition to the 3 bolts there are 2 plastic clips on the passenger side of the box. You will need a slot screwdriver to pry these open enough to remove the box.
- now with the bolts off and clips opened, carefully lift/tilt the lid as necessary to get at the plastic clips that retain the wires. After removing the front clip, I flipped the cover upside down to remove the rear clip.
- once the CZ box is plugged in it will sit at a tilt (end of unit at the wires will be raised such that it does not rest on the ECU, the front end of the CZ will rest on the ECU). This looked very odd to me, and it was tough to tell from Maurice's pics if it worked out this way for him as well, but I presume this is normal. The ECU box reinstalled nicely over top.

I guess that's it. Now to test the butt dyno.....

 

Some little tid bits that I picked up from installing in my car. You will have left over pieces. I believe that the instructions said to not use any of the brackets, but I actually was able to use the bracket closest to the front of the car.

I have no idea where to buy the "foam filter" that people are talking about, but I dont think it matters that much anyway. If you use the bracket, the stock ECU will not move at all, plus the piggy back is so tightly bound to the ECU, not to mention once you get all of the components into the car, getting that cover to close also tightens things up a bit.

I made the mistake of plugging all of my wires from the stock ECU into the piggy back and then the three from the piggy back into to stock ECU. Big mistake haha. The car barely started and when I revved the throttle, the rpm's should have risen, but only went up about 500 rpm and veryyy slowly. Obviously this wasnt correct, so I read the instructions again, and then was finally able to install the wires correctly.

Everything is working perfectly now, but I think i'll wait until next weekend to do some tuning and install the maps that Jason has supplied.

Thankx for everyones help along the way

Later...

 

Where does the laptop wires hook up at? I don't have a cz but just a thought.

 

huh? pics are gone now?

March 13, 2005 by CANZOOMER:
"They're baaaack!"

 

Please complain to the board moderators, not me.
I do not run this forum/board.

I will investigate and get this fixed, today hopefully..

 

still nothing?!?!?!?

 

I've also been waiting on pics and the install instructions for a while now. Is there another way we can get the instructions?

 

I repaired and updated the install instructions today.

Sorry, the software that runs on this forum got "glitched".

Anyway, updated, new and improved instructions are now posted..
Go to the beginning and read.
Pages 9 to 11 contain updates.

EDITED MAY 3, 2005:

New development:

As many of you know we use a Trust e-manage board as one of the components in our devices.

We now are upgrading these to the new Gold e-manage hardware and software, upon request.

Cost is $105, and adds a lot of new tuning features, including a "closed loop mode fooler" and ability to use more input sensors.
Cost includes return shipment to USA or Canada by Fedex Air.

It also allows ignition advance tuning based on throttle position, which is a real bonus.
In my experience so far the changes vastly improve the tuning experience, and eliminate most chances of the PCM adjusting fuel trims.

Email me for details at:
sales@canzoomer.com

 

you guys are awesome!....i think im throwing this bad boy in tomorrow after work

 

Did you ever do this mod to the cover?

 

Install completed tonight, I am only like...a year behind. Time to tune.

 

any actual dyno number increases?

 

up

dyno with the emanage ultimate ??

any benefits ??

 

Any updates on what performance improvements a 2006 Model might have. I may be wrong but I believe mazda updated some of the software for the 2006 Model to get better power, and smoother performance.