Replace coils?
11-09-2016, 09:55 PM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Replace coils?
Hi all,
I recently got a bluetooth OBDII reader and installed the torque app on my phone. I'm trying to see if there is a feature that may give an indication as to whether or not I need to replace my original coils. They've only got 52,000 kms on them but the car is an 04 so they're 12 years old. The car seems to pull strong to me, so I was hoping to judge replacing them on a read-out of some performance measurement on the torque app. Any suggestions?
btw if I need to replace them, it seems like BHR is the way to go based on articles here. Thoughts on this?
Thanks
I recently got a bluetooth OBDII reader and installed the torque app on my phone. I'm trying to see if there is a feature that may give an indication as to whether or not I need to replace my original coils. They've only got 52,000 kms on them but the car is an 04 so they're 12 years old. The car seems to pull strong to me, so I was hoping to judge replacing them on a read-out of some performance measurement on the torque app. Any suggestions?
btw if I need to replace them, it seems like BHR is the way to go based on articles here. Thoughts on this?
Thanks
11-10-2016, 03:37 AM
#2
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I have the Torque app, but admit I have only a basic working knowledge of it.
There may be a feature that can indicate ignition issues, but I don't recall anyone posting about it.
There are OBD codes that can result from bad coils.
You can also buy inexpensive coil testers, or use a timing light to check if they are working.
That being said, it's recommended here that coils, wires, and plugs be replaced as part of routine maintenance every 30k miles.
Idk kms.
The usual indicator of faulty codes are misfires that result in flashing CELS.
Misfires are probably the most common cause of engine problems, which dump unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, damaging it, and resulting in compression loss.
Use your fault code feature to check for any stored codes.
Important to remember;
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
The BHR ignition kit is likely the most dependable kit available, and Charles Hill provides excellent service and support.
I had one, and I have no complaints.
If cost is an issue, you can get aftermarket coils from places like Advance Auto for around $35 each.
NGK wires are adequate, and about $40, and NGK laser iridium plugs are about $20.
Don't try cheaper plugs.
You can get online coupons and save some $$.
There may be a feature that can indicate ignition issues, but I don't recall anyone posting about it.
There are OBD codes that can result from bad coils.
You can also buy inexpensive coil testers, or use a timing light to check if they are working.
That being said, it's recommended here that coils, wires, and plugs be replaced as part of routine maintenance every 30k miles.
Idk kms.
The usual indicator of faulty codes are misfires that result in flashing CELS.
Misfires are probably the most common cause of engine problems, which dump unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, damaging it, and resulting in compression loss.
Use your fault code feature to check for any stored codes.
Important to remember;
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
The BHR ignition kit is likely the most dependable kit available, and Charles Hill provides excellent service and support.
I had one, and I have no complaints.
If cost is an issue, you can get aftermarket coils from places like Advance Auto for around $35 each.
NGK wires are adequate, and about $40, and NGK laser iridium plugs are about $20.
Don't try cheaper plugs.
You can get online coupons and save some $$.
11-10-2016, 06:48 AM
#3
40th anniversary Edition
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
________________________________________
I have BHR coils and they are top-notch, with great service always from Charles at BHR.
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
________________________________________
I have BHR coils and they are top-notch, with great service always from Charles at BHR.
11-10-2016, 11:14 AM
#5
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
11-10-2016, 09:54 PM
#6
Registered
Thread Starter
I have the Torque app, but admit I have only a basic working knowledge of it.
There may be a feature that can indicate ignition issues, but I don't recall anyone posting about it.
There are OBD codes that can result from bad coils.
You can also buy inexpensive coil testers, or use a timing light to check if they are working.
That being said, it's recommended here that coils, wires, and plugs be replaced as part of routine maintenance every 30k miles.
Idk kms.
The usual indicator of faulty codes are misfires that result in flashing CELS.
Misfires are probably the most common cause of engine problems, which dump unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, damaging it, and resulting in compression loss.
Use your fault code feature to check for any stored codes.
Important to remember;
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
The BHR ignition kit is likely the most dependable kit available, and Charles Hill provides excellent service and support.
I had one, and I have no complaints.
If cost is an issue, you can get aftermarket coils from places like Advance Auto for around $35 each.
NGK wires are adequate, and about $40, and NGK laser iridium plugs are about $20.
Don't try cheaper plugs.
You can get online coupons and save some $$.
There may be a feature that can indicate ignition issues, but I don't recall anyone posting about it.
There are OBD codes that can result from bad coils.
You can also buy inexpensive coil testers, or use a timing light to check if they are working.
That being said, it's recommended here that coils, wires, and plugs be replaced as part of routine maintenance every 30k miles.
Idk kms.
The usual indicator of faulty codes are misfires that result in flashing CELS.
Misfires are probably the most common cause of engine problems, which dump unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, damaging it, and resulting in compression loss.
Use your fault code feature to check for any stored codes.
Important to remember;
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
The BHR ignition kit is likely the most dependable kit available, and Charles Hill provides excellent service and support.
I had one, and I have no complaints.
If cost is an issue, you can get aftermarket coils from places like Advance Auto for around $35 each.
NGK wires are adequate, and about $40, and NGK laser iridium plugs are about $20.
Don't try cheaper plugs.
You can get online coupons and save some $$.
Thanks
11-11-2016, 08:22 AM
#7
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
More specifically, P0300, P0301, & P0302 misfire codes can pop up because of bad coils, but other issues can trigger them as well.
11-11-2016, 08:27 AM
#8
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
You may want to remove the engine lifting bracket.
I didn't and one of the connector wires was rubbing against it and eventually caused a short.
If you do, measure the thickness of the bracket and use some flat washers as spacers.
They go into the water pump.
11-11-2016, 04:04 PM
#9
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Just as when I installed yours, I cleaned the MAF, changed the air filter, plugs, and did the brake stomp reset.
It ran noticeably better, but that can be attributed to the refreshing of the other components.
I'm having very sporadic issues right now that I feel are fuel pump related.
I plan on changing the pump to see if it's the problem.
If that doesn't do it, I'll put your kit back on.
If it still does it, then I fear it's compression test time.
I looked at your site and didn't see a pump.
Do you have any opinions on good replacement pumps?
11-12-2016, 09:27 AM
#10
Registered
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
________________________________________
I have BHR coils and they are top-notch, with great service always from Charles at BHR.
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
________________________________________
I have BHR coils and they are top-notch, with great service always from Charles at BHR.
IGN-1A High Performance Ignition System (RX-8, Universal Mount) - SakeBomb Garage LLC
11-12-2016, 11:48 AM
#11
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
there are other options than BHR to consider.......
IGN-1A High Performance Ignition System (RX-8, Universal Mount) - SakeBomb Garage LLC
IGN-1A High Performance Ignition System (RX-8, Universal Mount) - SakeBomb Garage LLC
11-13-2016, 07:07 AM
#12
40th anniversary Edition
I ultimately replaced my failed Series 1 pump (at about 64,000miles on my 2008 RX8) with a Series 2 OEM pump. There is a DIY here on the forum to show you the modifications needed to make it work, Really not too difficult .
Full disclosure, I had Jim of JPR Imports (a veteran rotary wrench) do the Series 2 OEM pump install with me. Also I put a lot of heat and stress on my original Series 1 pump with long cross-country drives at sustained highway speeds, and sometimes at low fuel levels before filling up. So if you drive differently, a Series 1 OEM pump can last a lot longer than mine did.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/
Certainly a new Series 1 pump would be the easy fix for most folks as Charles suggests. Charles knows his stuff.
And FYI, Mazda has just issued a recall to replace some Series1 fuel pump gaskets (prone to heat damage and potential fuel leakage) and to also upgrade the fuel tank heat shielding on the Series 1 fuel tanks.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-13-2016 at 07:32 AM.
