My CZ install + drive + questions = ??
My CZ install + drive + questions = ??
No one ever pointed out the tricks for releasing the tabs on the right side of the ECU cover, nor did anyone mention how there are mini-tabs on the ducts for the lower part of the ECU box.
Anyhow, install took me about an hour between running up and down 3 flights of stairs since the print out never fit on to my pages and having to run to the puter a few times.
DSC went off after the steering wheel check and the TSC went off after letting it warm up then shutting it off then on.
This mod isn't what i expected. I thought there would be a hit of power above 5k, a slap in the *** if anything. As it turns out, it seems to press you back against the seat as the tach needle bends backwards while it screams up the RPM range. Needle movement was the first thing I noticed then the rate of speed increase.
The real test for me is when I go to N.C. on TDY and drive up and play with a bit more.
There is a differenence, no doubt. Probably what the car should have been all along. CZ gets a big-fatty-boom-batty thumbs up!!
On another note, my idle still sux!
Question~
I'm still running with the K flash, can't help it and don't have time to get it done nor a place that will do it with out a fight, which leads me to this -
By turning the mod OFF, can I get the system flashed or does the mod need to be removed and connected to oem? I thought I read somebody getting the updated flash with the CZ mod installed but turning it OFF. True?
Anyhow, install took me about an hour between running up and down 3 flights of stairs since the print out never fit on to my pages and having to run to the puter a few times.
DSC went off after the steering wheel check and the TSC went off after letting it warm up then shutting it off then on.
This mod isn't what i expected. I thought there would be a hit of power above 5k, a slap in the *** if anything. As it turns out, it seems to press you back against the seat as the tach needle bends backwards while it screams up the RPM range. Needle movement was the first thing I noticed then the rate of speed increase.
The real test for me is when I go to N.C. on TDY and drive up and play with a bit more.
There is a differenence, no doubt. Probably what the car should have been all along. CZ gets a big-fatty-boom-batty thumbs up!!
On another note, my idle still sux!
Question~
I'm still running with the K flash, can't help it and don't have time to get it done nor a place that will do it with out a fight, which leads me to this -
By turning the mod OFF, can I get the system flashed or does the mod need to be removed and connected to oem? I thought I read somebody getting the updated flash with the CZ mod installed but turning it OFF. True?
(1) I'm sure I posted a suggestion about using WD40 on the side tabs, and somebody else suggested something curved and pointy as a lever, which I also use to pry 'em up. (2) The conventional wisdom and Canzoomer's advice has been to leave it in and switch it off, but within about the past month RX-8 friend said in a post that Canzoomer on his last time in had left the switch on with no ill effect and no CEL triggered. Have not seen any confirming reports of anyone else doing that with same result. It should work better once you've had the M; glad it's also better with the K, for which it is not optimized. Good luck.
So getting the system flashed with the mod installed and turned off will work? Service dept won't see anything different when they hook up to it?
Does the switch just revert back to original maps? I"m guessing so, are those original maps in the original ECU or are they also in the mod? I just find it strange(read ignorant) with the plugs they way they are that flashing doesn't affect it, or that the service dept can't tell.
Does the switch just revert back to original maps? I"m guessing so, are those original maps in the original ECU or are they also in the mod? I just find it strange(read ignorant) with the plugs they way they are that flashing doesn't affect it, or that the service dept can't tell.
The switch just routes the MAF straight through when in the "OFF" position. When in the "ON" position -only- the MAF signal is routed through the electronics. All other cables just route through the box. I'm ignoring the ignition wires because they work the same if the box is turned off. The dealer can't program the Stage 1 box (unless they had the program and special cable plugged into the front of the Stage 1 box). The dealer plugs into the port under the dash inside the car. This port only programs the PCM and reads out diagnostics for the PCM.
Sooo, when the switch is "OFF" the box does nothing (car runs on unmodified PCM program or flash). When the switch is "ON" the Stage 1 modifies the effect the PCM flash has, it doesn't "change" the program.
On or off, the Stage 1 has no effect on the dealer's ability to program the car.
Using logic, IF Stage 1 was on, AND IF the dealer was diagnosing the MAF, AND IF the dealer reved the engine into the region the Stage 1 modifies, they may get an indication something was not right.
Sooo, when the switch is "OFF" the box does nothing (car runs on unmodified PCM program or flash). When the switch is "ON" the Stage 1 modifies the effect the PCM flash has, it doesn't "change" the program.
On or off, the Stage 1 has no effect on the dealer's ability to program the car.
Using logic, IF Stage 1 was on, AND IF the dealer was diagnosing the MAF, AND IF the dealer reved the engine into the region the Stage 1 modifies, they may get an indication something was not right.
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