OK, when I first put the CZ in, I had my two trailing coils burn out. I had definite symptoms - loss of power below 4kRPM, worse MPG, etc. This continued even after I removed the CZ unit, and I could tell by visual inspection that the coils were burned out. I replaced the coils ($300 later) and reinstalled the CZ.

So now I'm getting the loss-of-power symptom that is similar but not exactly the same as before. This time, when I turn the unit off the problem goes away. I also did a visual inspection, and the coils are fine.

Am I experiencing a problem with my butt dyno, my car, the unit, or what?

 

Let me clarify, however, that the car is noticeably better above the 4.5kRPM mark.

ZOOM is right.

 

I'm experiencing the exact same symptoms. Trying to get some guidance from Maurice about this.

 

I've been following most of the threads, but I didn't remember this problem occuring except when accompanied by the coil burn-out. Glad to hear there's at least one other person.

If CZ or Jr is reading this, can you please clarify?

If NEbody else is reading this and remembers a thread I missed, can you please provide a pointer?

Thanks!

 

same exact issue here...i'm thinking of just taking the unit out...=\

 

I don't know about OUT, but I have turned it off until this is figured out.

With the CZ on, it feels like the the regular 8 with the ignition coils burned out.

 

So that is four people that I've seen with the same symptoms: myself, DisneyDestroyer, BrX8 and RX10000RPM.

Still no reply from Maurice or RX8Friend regarding this issue and it's been a week since I sent the email. I will try calling this afternoon.

 

Spoke with Maurice today.

He would like some additional data. For example, how long is it taking to go from 2000 RPM to 6000 RPM? Test with unit on and unit off. Use your own upper and lower boundries, just test under similar conditions and circumstances. Oh, and don't kill yourself doing it... :-)

I'll provide this information as soon as I can. I just need to find somebody to ride shot gun and do the timing for for me.

 

I just installed the unit today after had it upgraded last week. I also experiencing lost power and more noticeable below 4000 RPM. I turn it off and seems better but still feel poor. I will remove the unit tomorrow to see if it is just my imagination.

Maurice...just as a recommendation...perhaps, create a version where no change is made below 5000RPM. With ECU Flash M, I am happy with the performance below 5000 RPM.

 

I just reinstalled mine after it was sent for update. It came back with latest map, and I have now M flash. Initial impression is the same as what you all describing, car hesitates especially on 3rd or 4th below 4K rpm. It surges but no misfire. I cleared my PCM by pressing the brake 20 times, and I think I got rid of most of the symptoms. I still have some left, but I will drive the car for a while an let it adjust, and see if all disappears. Power is awsome above 5k, very linear and strong. The loss of power below 4K is still present, but minimal, and only now between 3-4k RPM, and only in 1st gear.Before it appeared in all gears and more so in higher gears. I am hoping this is a fix. I will wait for couple of days, and see if all side effects disappear, and will report back. If it does not I will call Maurice, he will gladly help as always. Guys if you have an issue just call him, you will be very pleased with him.

Mark

 

1) If you're still having problems with the CZ off, check the ignition coils. They are slightly visible simply by taking the off the engine cover. Stand next to the front driver tire and look under the air tube (use a flashlight is easiest) you should be able to see two or three of the coils going into the engine. The two that are easiest to see are the "trailing" coils, the ones I've most frequently seen reported as burnt out. If they're anything but smooth (or a physical difference among the ones you can see), that one is most likely fried.

2) I was under the impression, at least in the beginning, that the CZ didn't change anything below about 4500RPM. Is that untrue? Has the behavior changed, for example from 1.0 to 1.1?

 

I am going to remove the CZ unit and take the car to the dealer. I hope it is just a matter of coils burnt out or I need the new plugs...I do notice foul smell coming from the plug.

I am hopeful that the CZ will perform as expected.

 

Just checked and it appears one of the coils had burned out. I will take it to the dealer and hope they will not give me a hard time. Has there been any proof of CZ plays a role with coils burn out?

 

Guys
It seems mine also has 2 burnt coils. I just checked mine and they appear fried. I just checked them yesterday hours before re-installing my CZ unit, and they looked ok. It could be just a concidence. So back to the delear tomorrow, and hope they cover it. Are the coils covered under warranty? The funny thing my car still idles ok, and if it was not for little power loss below 3500K, you would not know the difference. The surge in power above 5K in CZ unit is nice though. I am hoping it is not causing the coils to fail. Will keep you posted
Mark

 

Disney - the 1.1 version has been changed (optimized?) for the M flash.

SQ88 - There has been a discussion about how there may be a problem with burnt coils with the CZ unit. Do a search for "burnt coils again", and check RXfriend's posts.

mgandil - According to other people who have encountered this problem, the coils should be covered under warranty.

 

took the unit out, still experiencing problems, likely due to the burned coils in which i'd suspect the CZ unit caused...will try clearing the PCM but if that doesn't do it, i'm taking it in to the dealership...i don't think i'll be putting the unit back in, just too much of a hassle to get them burned up again, at least until a solution is found

 

Let me state, though, that I've read two or three users complaining about their coils burnt out (including a fellow RX-8 owner here in SD) that don't have the CZ. I suspect it exacerbates a potential problem that already exists, rather than creating a new problem.

 

8is>enuff thank you for the reply...much appreciated

Disney, I think you are correct too in your statement that the CZ.1 does not cause the problem, but it exacerbates a potential problem that already exists, rather than creating a new problem. I think mine could have been on the vurge of failing, or possibly weak, and the CZ.1 exposed the problem

Mark

 

'S kewl dood, I wasn't taking offense or anything, just trying to shed some light on the situation. Mine also popped just about as soon as I started driving. I didn't let it idle for 15 minutes, I thought you had to be driving for the learning time. Nonetheless, by the time my drive was over (a little of a half hour), they were burnt out.

 

CZ, I understand you & Jr are back reading the forums again.

Any updates?

 

Well, I have to add my voice to the chorus.... BRx8, sorry for the snarky response in another thread, you were right on the money.

No problem with vehicle before install of CZ 1.1. On first drive with CZ I notice obvious power loss below 4K RPM. Gave it a week to make sure not a "learning" issue. Removed CZ completely. Still have no juice under 4K. On visual inspection, my trailing coils look fine. Will bring it to dealer for scheduled maintenance and get the coils checked properly.

Seems obvious from other posts on the forum that the problem is Mazda underengineered the coil packs. Will feedback once I get her into the shop.

 

It would ... except I understand that Maurice has devised a fix for the stage 1 to prevent it from exascerbating the underdesigned coils. This has not yet been confirmed by Canzoomer or anyone from his organization ... although we all wait patiently for such confirmation (some more patiently than others).

 

I finally got word from Maurice directly on this, I tried it out and everything is great. There's no problems or power loss at low RPM, my MPG is better, and I believe the power is there too.

He sent me three pictures showing what to do, but they're too big. Essentially, you open up the CZ box and find a long, thin board. There should be two round, orange things on it (not sure if they're resistors or capacitors). Cut them out completely.

I'll be happy to add them pictures or link to them, with help...

 

This has been discussed in the "Fix for CZ 1.1 for GB#2" thread. They are capacitors close to the on/off switch that seemed to have resolved the rough idle and low rpm lag problems.

One thing that hasn't been fixed after that is the lugging in the low rpms (feels like when you're trying to WOT while in 1000 rpms). Members here have mentioned that it is a tuning problem and that some of them are trying to fix it by tuning the maps themselves. I'll probably go that direction also.

 

Increasing the ignition advance in the lower RPMs makes a big difference. The car feels much more responsive.