My measurements are via my own wideband and I have logged it on my Cobb with .2 variation between the two sensors.

How would I do that Team?

My o2 is 12 years old so I could see it starting to become less responsive, I already cleaned my MAF (I log 5.5g/sec exactly) and checked for vacuum leaks (Pulling -16 vacuum on my gauge) I have BHR coils with less than 2K miles on them and no signs of failure (My misfires from last year are now gone as far as I can tell, I attribute this to my grounding kit as my engine bay was painted and it raised impedance on the OE harnesses) so the only thing left is the o2 sensor. If I get this code again and putting my CAT back on does not solve the issue (Which I think it will).

If you have hidden them with the cobb, IT just takes driving time. Do not remove the battery, do not 20 brake stomp and do not reflash. You have to drive it in the 2500-3500 rpm range to get the P0410 & 420 codes ready. There is a post on here somewhere that shows the range from a mazda tech manual.

I've got a Racing beat midpipe.

My nebighor had a code reader that has redyness moniters. I borrow it from him and check before going to get mine done.

In Tx they just look for a CEL then plug in and check the moniters. We are allowed one thing not ready.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...8/#post3359479

Heres the post I was thinking of.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...2/#post4167931

PA is same as TX

So is NY,

This is the dilemma, their is not mass agreement. 3 knowledgeable point of views and 3 seemingly different answers.

• Keep the CEL masked and just drive it and they will become active
• If you mask the CEL it will cause the monitor to never become active
• Go back to stock and uninstall the Cobb

My biggest thing is which one is the fastest method, I have heard people have all monitors active in 50 miles or less. I am on 50 miles right now and none of my monitors are active, even the evap is still not active, so now 4/8 are inactive.

Fastest for me ended up plugging in the air pump.

Next morning both it and evap passed. I can check my CELs but am 99.9% certain I have air pump masked.

I don't think I was clear enough previously having reread my response.

Now it comes down to, I will install my airpump and my cat tonight, but do I unmask the P2096, I just do not see what monitor this will hold up, and do not want to risk throwing a code.

Every time you reflash you have to start over again. Even masking CEL's should not make it take longer to get a ready status.

Reinstalling that stuff might help it happen faster or it might not at all, but resetting the system in any way will only make the process take longer.

I'm pretty sure that it comes down to driving style and drive cycles.
You need to get multiple drive cycles from cold to temp and you'll have to drive in the ranges on the map oltmann posted. That is where it does it's readyness check at.

The air pump and associated codes are only going to cycle at very cold engine temps(less than 100F). You'll need at least 2 startup cycles(probably more) to get that one ready.

Most of my driving is to a from work. 45-55MPH. Guess I will take the long route now and get 55+.

I have one day and one cold start under my belt

This is false. I've passed 2 with my cobb and one of them had 100% ready. I have P2096, 410, and 420 masked

Woohoo just had catalyst become active after 60 miles.

Now I need evap, o2, and secondary air system. At least two of them lol

Logan why do you have P2096? Why is this code seem to be popping up a lot lately?

I have no clue where it comes from, but everything else is running great. It could be in my tune.

My cobb and lc1 read pretty close to each other and are semi close to my targets. I have a new MAF and Wideband in the car. No vac leaks. So I gave up Searching and masked it.

I've been able to get all tests to pass in under two days.

It requires a couple full range drive cycles, including closed loop cruise at about 60-65 mph. I guess you'll hit that eventually but a good morning run in the city and 15-20 minutes on the open road should do it.

Car is cooling now hoping to get a cold start later tonight than a full drive cycle 30 miles and see where I am at. Than another cold start in the am and hope secondary air system and o2 or evap will let me get an inspection so I can start tuning.

Here's the single stage drive cycle FYI...it's a lot more complex that you think ;)



Attachment 203261

Did that procedure this morning, no change.

Oxygen Sensor
Secondary Air system
Evaporative system

All still incomplete, I am on morning 2 since my reflash and 95 miles.

The Evap and secondary air require a dead cold restart...the cycle says to wait 6+ hours....might have to wait till tomorrow to get that....

Car sat for 10 hours over the night.

Did your air pump power up this morning? The readiness test results should show what failed. I believe torque (android app) will show it.

I did not install them, as I have the CEL disabled anyways on my map so even if I did I do not see it as mattering at all.

I do not want to reflash my map and start over either.

This is what I have, I probably should have installed it last night as it would have fired up regardless of CEL disabled etc... did not even think about that. Will do it tonight, and the CAT it I have time.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/823/37gj.png

Evap system took the longest for me if i remember right.

I heard it usually does.

I believe that the EVAP system isn't checked if the gas tank is full or empty either (<15% or >85%). Most of the EVAP DTCs have that requirement, but I can't find the specific evap monitoring condition requirements for the readiness test yet to know if that same rule applies for the readiness condition.

Yeah, definitely try torque. It will give you a couple more details around why those tests are failing. Assuming they are still not "pending" It will show you the measurement it is looking for and what it actually received.

Another tool (even better for readiness test monitoring) is OBDLink but you must have an OBDLink OBD2 adapter to use it: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...DLink&hl=en_GB

Torque is not supported on Iphone, but the one you linked is, but I do not have the right adapter :lol: I have the PLXwifi dongle.

Also RIWWP I have 30 miles on my tank, and the fuel gauge says full still so that may be why.