DIY: RX-8 Oil Change for dummies
#26
I like cheese!
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A fumoto will work just fine. Thanks for reminding me, too!!!
Good info on the M1-110!
BTW, the R6 filter has got to be MUCH more expensive. I think it's like $12-14 at the dealer.
Good info on the M1-110!
BTW, the R6 filter has got to be MUCH more expensive. I think it's like $12-14 at the dealer.
#27
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Anyone fit the Mobil M1-110 yet?
And when I meant cheap Mazda filter, I was referring to the PRICE of the filter. The internals are the same, and motorcycle filter has to work MUCH harder than a car filter. So rest assured, that little filter must be doing great things for the rotory!
And when I meant cheap Mazda filter, I was referring to the PRICE of the filter. The internals are the same, and motorcycle filter has to work MUCH harder than a car filter. So rest assured, that little filter must be doing great things for the rotory!
#28
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Oil filter
This is a somewhat old page, but it tells you to stay away from FRAM oil filters. Has FRAM inproved its quality since, or would you also avoid them?
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
#30
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syntrix, outstanding instructions. Do you write tech manuals for a living? My RX is currently at 1200 miles and beginning to contemplate the first oil change. Combined knowledge on this forum is like having your own personal pit crew!
#32
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great thread one question...was the OEM filter as hard to get off as has been mentioned and can you use the F sized wrench to take the original Mazda filter off?
#33
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My original oil filter was very hard to remove. There is no
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.
Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.
Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.
#34
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Not sure about the Mazda filter wrench, but my filter wrench slipped on the filter the 1st time, because it was on there so darned tight. Some Saran-Wrap added the required thickness to torque that puppy off. Search for an earlier oil change how-to thread for more details and photos.
#35
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I'm using K&N oil filters because they have a handy 1" nut incorporated into the top of the filter so you can tighten/loosen the filter with a 1" socket on the end of your 3/8" extension instead of mucking around with a cap-type filter wrench or cramping up your hand. The K&N part # for RX-8 is HP1008.
I had to line a cap-wrench with sandpaper to get off the original filter. Many thanks to someone on this forum for that idea.
I had to line a cap-wrench with sandpaper to get off the original filter. Many thanks to someone on this forum for that idea.
#39
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I did my first change today after 1250 miles - just to get rid of any break-in particulate that might be floating around in there. Thanks for the tips!
I found that definitely had to poke a hole in the old filter with a nail. Even after letting the car sit for ~20 minutes or so, there was a substantial amount of oil still in the filter, which promptly spilled out onto the block when I broke the seal! I quickly tightened the filter back on, keeping a lot of oil still in the filter. Then I poked the hole to allow air in the back side of the filter. Then, after another minute, the filter was removed with only a drop or two needing to be cleaned-up.
I found that definitely had to poke a hole in the old filter with a nail. Even after letting the car sit for ~20 minutes or so, there was a substantial amount of oil still in the filter, which promptly spilled out onto the block when I broke the seal! I quickly tightened the filter back on, keeping a lot of oil still in the filter. Then I poked the hole to allow air in the back side of the filter. Then, after another minute, the filter was removed with only a drop or two needing to be cleaned-up.
#40
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BTW, I used the larger M1-110 filter and jacked the left side of the car to get more oil out. I had to put in about 4.75 quarts back in to get it up even with the "full line"!
#41
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1st engine break-in change
Ok, a TC reply (you can call it Tall Corn or two cents - your choice)
Did my break-in change today at 1525 miles - Castrol 5W20 (Grey cap for those looking) and Fram PH6607. Been a Castrol GTX fan for years - Sorry Gordon -
Things noticed - 3.25 quarts out, 4 quarts in. After done, stick just slightly under F mark, not really worried since I check it pretty regularly.
Filter was kinda hard to get in and out through the tubing and the firewall but still made it ok. Oil dripped from old filter easily caught in paper towels placed at base of old filter prior to job start. I would, to ease extraction of the old and insertion of the new filter, suggest you set aside the dip stick, unless that was originally stated at the start of this thread.
One thing that got my attention was the color of the oil - it was a grey-like color, not muddy gray, like when you have a water leak or condensation problems, but unlike normal carboned motor oil, this was an almost transparent black, like looking through charcoal sunglasses. That's the best I can describe it. It didn't feel to the touch like anything other than oil, and had a normal mileage oil smell to it. The taste, well, ha! Didn't get that far....:p
Anyway, no trouble reaching the drain plug, although I'm glad I had purchased a 19mm box wrench for an earlier job I had done many miles ago on my '91 Camry.
I've had more difficult oil changes on my 45 years, but I'd rate this one as fairly easy also as long as you don't have the old filter torqued down too hard.
Tall...................
Did my break-in change today at 1525 miles - Castrol 5W20 (Grey cap for those looking) and Fram PH6607. Been a Castrol GTX fan for years - Sorry Gordon -
Things noticed - 3.25 quarts out, 4 quarts in. After done, stick just slightly under F mark, not really worried since I check it pretty regularly.
Filter was kinda hard to get in and out through the tubing and the firewall but still made it ok. Oil dripped from old filter easily caught in paper towels placed at base of old filter prior to job start. I would, to ease extraction of the old and insertion of the new filter, suggest you set aside the dip stick, unless that was originally stated at the start of this thread.
One thing that got my attention was the color of the oil - it was a grey-like color, not muddy gray, like when you have a water leak or condensation problems, but unlike normal carboned motor oil, this was an almost transparent black, like looking through charcoal sunglasses. That's the best I can describe it. It didn't feel to the touch like anything other than oil, and had a normal mileage oil smell to it. The taste, well, ha! Didn't get that far....:p
Anyway, no trouble reaching the drain plug, although I'm glad I had purchased a 19mm box wrench for an earlier job I had done many miles ago on my '91 Camry.
I've had more difficult oil changes on my 45 years, but I'd rate this one as fairly easy also as long as you don't have the old filter torqued down too hard.
Tall...................
#42
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I did mine too and it took 15 minutes. Used the Mityvac oil extractor and Purolator Pure One oil filter along with the 3/8" socket filter wrench.
Mityvac
Mityvac
Last edited by flatso; 04-19-2004 at 05:17 AM.
#44
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Originally posted by dplore
My original oil filter was very hard to remove. There is no
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.
Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.
My original oil filter was very hard to remove. There is no
way I could remove it without the filter wrench. The "F" size
oil filter wrench fits on the original filter.
Also, I highly recommend using a jack stand before you
get under the car. Never get under a car with only the
jack holding it up.
Used a 6" and 3" extension, with a universal joint in-between. 3" piece connected to wrench and 6" to the ratchet. Original filter came off fairly easily.
#48
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Free maintanence
I just called my dealer's service department (Hiley Mazda in Arlington, TX) and posed this question to them.
Their answer was: An earlier release of the Rx8 did not have the HP as it was said it had when it was sold. Customers who had this model were given the offer of having a choice of having their car bought back or having their maint done for free.
I had purchased my base 6MT a little over a month ago and did not get this program as my car has plenty of giddy-yup.
Otherwise, any oil change is at my cost.
Tall.......................
Their answer was: An earlier release of the Rx8 did not have the HP as it was said it had when it was sold. Customers who had this model were given the offer of having a choice of having their car bought back or having their maint done for free.
I had purchased my base 6MT a little over a month ago and did not get this program as my car has plenty of giddy-yup.
Otherwise, any oil change is at my cost.
Tall.......................
#49
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I don't have that free service you're talking about, I only had the first free 2000km oil change and that's it!
plus, after my airbag recall where they broke part of my glove box and said nothing makes me kinda paranoid so I just let ppl working on my 8 out of my sight as little as possible :p
plus, after my airbag recall where they broke part of my glove box and said nothing makes me kinda paranoid so I just let ppl working on my 8 out of my sight as little as possible :p
Originally posted by blue flash
why are you changing your own oil when the dealer will do it for you up to 36,00 miles for free?
why are you changing your own oil when the dealer will do it for you up to 36,00 miles for free?
#50
Pro Audentius
Great instructions!
Will be finally getting around to changing out the oil tonight. Will be using a Mobil-1 M1-110 filter with Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend motor oil.
Will be finally getting around to changing out the oil tonight. Will be using a Mobil-1 M1-110 filter with Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend motor oil.