DIY: RP (AFE) Short Shifter install.
Mine is a 04' GT and I just finished the install on the shifter..
100% beautiful except I finally ended up breaking off the weakest clip on the console... Is there a DIY for fixing the little clip??
Performance:
I started the car and tested before I put the whole console back together and I just had the shifter in and the metal secure plate shaped like the rotary symbol on. Of course it was pretty noisy.
Put both boots back on and made special notice as to where I slid the rubber boot down on the white ring.. I moved it down about half way... ` Put everything on and back together and I can't tell any major noise difference.
However, i do notice now the sound the tranny makes if you put the stick all the way up against the shift "blocks" or whatever and it makes a grinding noise.. I think now that is why people have recommended not to keep you hand on the shifter.. You are just grinding away on the side of the shifting mechanisms in the tranny..
Shifter is awesome and very smooth... I'm totally satisfied.. I'll need a little more time to get used to it because I'm used to throwing the shifter farther with speed if I want to shift fast. The short shifter is quicker but you need to know a little better where 3rd to 4th to 5th shifting is when your throwing the shifter around..
A+ to Axial
100% beautiful except I finally ended up breaking off the weakest clip on the console... Is there a DIY for fixing the little clip??
Performance:
I started the car and tested before I put the whole console back together and I just had the shifter in and the metal secure plate shaped like the rotary symbol on. Of course it was pretty noisy.
Put both boots back on and made special notice as to where I slid the rubber boot down on the white ring.. I moved it down about half way... ` Put everything on and back together and I can't tell any major noise difference.
However, i do notice now the sound the tranny makes if you put the stick all the way up against the shift "blocks" or whatever and it makes a grinding noise.. I think now that is why people have recommended not to keep you hand on the shifter.. You are just grinding away on the side of the shifting mechanisms in the tranny..
Shifter is awesome and very smooth... I'm totally satisfied.. I'll need a little more time to get used to it because I'm used to throwing the shifter farther with speed if I want to shift fast. The short shifter is quicker but you need to know a little better where 3rd to 4th to 5th shifting is when your throwing the shifter around..
A+ to Axial
I found one and it's even in this very thread. Did you look?
Here is the link, but it's close to the top of this thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...22072#poststop
Dave
Last edited by Mazurfer; Dec 20, 2007 at 05:52 PM.
Received the shifter yesterday, came home around 10pm and was out test driving by 11
Very simple install. The PITA clip was already broken on mine.
Bit of a suggestion. For the wire clips that latch on to the studs. I tried a couple different ways of removing them but what ended up working was just getting a good grip and giving a sharp pull upwards. Came off with no apparent damage, and latched on again just fine when I put them back. YMMV
Really enjoying the feel of the new shifter. Worth every penny.
Very simple install. The PITA clip was already broken on mine.Bit of a suggestion. For the wire clips that latch on to the studs. I tried a couple different ways of removing them but what ended up working was just getting a good grip and giving a sharp pull upwards. Came off with no apparent damage, and latched on again just fine when I put them back. YMMV
Really enjoying the feel of the new shifter. Worth every penny.
Received the shifter yesterday, came home around 10pm and was out test driving by 11
Very simple install. The PITA clip was already broken on mine.
Bit of a suggestion. For the wire clips that latch on to the studs. I tried a couple different ways of removing them but what ended up working was just getting a good grip and giving a sharp pull upwards. Came off with no apparent damage, and latched on again just fine when I put them back. YMMV
Really enjoying the feel of the new shifter. Worth every penny.
Very simple install. The PITA clip was already broken on mine.Bit of a suggestion. For the wire clips that latch on to the studs. I tried a couple different ways of removing them but what ended up working was just getting a good grip and giving a sharp pull upwards. Came off with no apparent damage, and latched on again just fine when I put them back. YMMV
Really enjoying the feel of the new shifter. Worth every penny.
Interesting about the clips. I put one in yesterday and tried it, I used a needle nose pliers that has a 90 degree bent tip, just pried them up. Works!!
Got the short shifter installed today and voodoo ****! Feels great so far. I haven't had it in 5th or 6th yet today but will later. I had the stereo on so I haven't yet listened carefully for extra noise but I'll do that too. Very happy with this mod! Why did I wait so long lol.
Not sure if anything like this has been mentioned in this thread yet, but since I installed the RP short shifter, ran my radar detector power line to the rear plug and such, I've had to remove the front console cover a few times. I found that pulling out the tab (first step) can be difficult with big screwdrivers and that if you put a dime in the slot and twist the dime a little it will come out easily. Then if you use a quarter and push down and twist a little while pulling up on the console cover, it will move that tab just enough to pull up with ease and you shouldn't break/damage the tab. I used a screwdriver with electrical tape over it the first time to get that first tab by the e-brake and scratched the silver just a bit, but had no scratches using the quarter idea. Hopefully this is useful for someone.
I didn't use the yank it out method, so I really can't say........other than I wouldn't just yank it even after getting the one PIA clip. To me, yanking is asking for breakage.
I guess I'm to blame for the boot yanking thing. But I have installed at least 40 to 50 shifters and no one can claim that now can they. I do admit that 2 or 3 have broken tabs but more would have broken with the old screwdriver deal.
Once there was about 10 guys came by the shop on a Saturday and I installed them all without breaking a tab.
I just pull straight up after removing the **** by holding as much boot as I can get in my grip. It takes a good yank and there is no gaurentee that you'll get it right and not break the tab but your odds are good. I think they are better then the old method. Some cars are going to fail and that is that but the good news is it doesn't matter. Running with a broken tab is unnoticable, it doesn't rattle or stick up. Also there is a new way to get those pesty wire loom things off. It also involves the brut force method. I use a needle nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend in them. I just put the tips under the plastic thingy and pry. Like magic and anyone who has fought those damn things will be happy to have this new way of getting them. These were the time consuming item in the installation. And frustrating too.
Now I just saved you about 20 minutes out of your life. Everyone send me half of that (10 min) to add to my life and we'll both be happy.
Once there was about 10 guys came by the shop on a Saturday and I installed them all without breaking a tab.
I just pull straight up after removing the **** by holding as much boot as I can get in my grip. It takes a good yank and there is no gaurentee that you'll get it right and not break the tab but your odds are good. I think they are better then the old method. Some cars are going to fail and that is that but the good news is it doesn't matter. Running with a broken tab is unnoticable, it doesn't rattle or stick up. Also there is a new way to get those pesty wire loom things off. It also involves the brut force method. I use a needle nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend in them. I just put the tips under the plastic thingy and pry. Like magic and anyone who has fought those damn things will be happy to have this new way of getting them. These were the time consuming item in the installation. And frustrating too.
Now I just saved you about 20 minutes out of your life. Everyone send me half of that (10 min) to add to my life and we'll both be happy.
Will always defer to you Richard! 
I have a very small set of needle nose with a 90 degree and actually used it by inserting into the wiring clips and spreading the tabs on the wiring clips with one hand while just lifting them off. Worked really well and no force applied.

I have a very small set of needle nose with a 90 degree and actually used it by inserting into the wiring clips and spreading the tabs on the wiring clips with one hand while just lifting them off. Worked really well and no force applied.
Last edited by Mazurfer; Apr 16, 2008 at 08:53 AM.
I guess I'm to blame for the boot yanking thing. But I have installed at least 40 to 50 shifters and no one can claim that now can they. I do admit that 2 or 3 have broken tabs but more would have broken with the old screwdriver deal.
Once there was about 10 guys came by the shop on a Saturday and I installed them all without breaking a tab.
I just pull straight up after removing the **** by holding as much boot as I can get in my grip. It takes a good yank and there is no gaurentee that you'll get it right and not break the tab but your odds are good. I think they are better then the old method. Some cars are going to fail and that is that but the good news is it doesn't matter. Running with a broken tab is unnoticable, it doesn't rattle or stick up. Also there is a new way to get those pesty wire loom things off. It also involves the brut force method. I use a needle nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend in them. I just put the tips under the plastic thingy and pry. Like magic and anyone who has fought those damn things will be happy to have this new way of getting them. These were the time consuming item in the installation. And frustrating too.
Now I just saved you about 20 minutes out of your life. Everyone send me half of that (10 min) to add to my life and we'll both be happy.
Once there was about 10 guys came by the shop on a Saturday and I installed them all without breaking a tab.
I just pull straight up after removing the **** by holding as much boot as I can get in my grip. It takes a good yank and there is no gaurentee that you'll get it right and not break the tab but your odds are good. I think they are better then the old method. Some cars are going to fail and that is that but the good news is it doesn't matter. Running with a broken tab is unnoticable, it doesn't rattle or stick up. Also there is a new way to get those pesty wire loom things off. It also involves the brut force method. I use a needle nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend in them. I just put the tips under the plastic thingy and pry. Like magic and anyone who has fought those damn things will be happy to have this new way of getting them. These were the time consuming item in the installation. And frustrating too.
Now I just saved you about 20 minutes out of your life. Everyone send me half of that (10 min) to add to my life and we'll both be happy.

Quick question, I installed the AFE SS today. I hear noises especially when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Does anyone know how to reduce the noise? I tried everything from grease and taking it apart a few times. Any help would be appreciated Thanks.
Do some searches. Seems like there are several ways that have helped for some an not for others.
These would include..........not tightening down the **** so much, to either having the green fuzz in or out, and a few other things...........like the actuall position of the top of the shift boot on the shaft(wtf?).
Mine makes no noise and I tie wrapped the green fuzz around the shaft right above the white plastic piece. I didn't tighten so tight as to try and keep it from sliding on the shaft, just semi-tight. It just won't allow the tie wrap to come over the white plastic piece and will keep the green fuzz in place.
These would include..........not tightening down the **** so much, to either having the green fuzz in or out, and a few other things...........like the actuall position of the top of the shift boot on the shaft(wtf?).
Mine makes no noise and I tie wrapped the green fuzz around the shaft right above the white plastic piece. I didn't tighten so tight as to try and keep it from sliding on the shaft, just semi-tight. It just won't allow the tie wrap to come over the white plastic piece and will keep the green fuzz in place.
Last edited by Mazurfer; Apr 16, 2008 at 08:57 AM.
hi maybe i didnt clarify my question but when i yank on the boot does it pull off all the tabs including the bad one? and do i still need to remove the cover in the cupholder when i plan on accessing hte shifter via yanking on the boot? thanks
was bored and decided to make a short video of the method explained above. I'm sure you can interchange coins and such but those are what seemed to work best for me. I'm sure you can use a penny instead of a dime and probably most coins will work instead of the quarter, but you get more grip on the quarter. When I say "push and turn the quarter counter-clockwise" I mean to push down if you couldn't get that. If you don't push down the coin might slip a little bit and scratch the silver sides. I ended up finding reasons to take it off a few times over a couple days and didn't have tools or anything once and discovered that to be easiest.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eJOddX9a5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eJOddX9a5Y
A great product and a great DIY.
I found the 'grab the boot and (gently) yank' to be easiest way to remove the cover - tab survived nicely. Also the tip to unscrew the ashtray to allow easier access to two of the plate nuts.
The suggestion to use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to lever-remove the plastic cable blocks was invaluable.
Only 20 minutes start to finish.
There certainly is a "Springfield bolt action rifle" feel to the shifter; very precise and assured and of course a shorter throw.
Thanks to Richard, Gomez and everyone else. AFE has an excellent product and this forum's members sure make things easy.
The only downside is that now I need another mod. Hmmm.. that clutch bracket needs a preemptive solution...
edit: oh yeah, picture as it Did happen.
I found the 'grab the boot and (gently) yank' to be easiest way to remove the cover - tab survived nicely. Also the tip to unscrew the ashtray to allow easier access to two of the plate nuts.
The suggestion to use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to lever-remove the plastic cable blocks was invaluable.
Only 20 minutes start to finish.
There certainly is a "Springfield bolt action rifle" feel to the shifter; very precise and assured and of course a shorter throw.
Thanks to Richard, Gomez and everyone else. AFE has an excellent product and this forum's members sure make things easy.
The only downside is that now I need another mod. Hmmm.. that clutch bracket needs a preemptive solution...

edit: oh yeah, picture as it Did happen.
Last edited by Huey52; Jul 2, 2009 at 10:13 AM.
When I first say him YANK the boot out, I was a bit shocked.

I've removed that boot several times since with that method and never had any issues.
A great product and a great DIY.
I found the 'grab the boot and (gently) yank' to be easiest way to remove the cover - tab survived nicely. Also the tip to unscrew the ashtray to allow easier access to two of the plate nuts.
The suggestion to use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to lever-remove the plastic cable blocks was invaluable.
Only 20 minutes start to finish.
There certainly is a "Springfield bolt action rifle" feel to the shifter; very precise and assured and of course a shorter throw.
Thanks to Richard, Gomez and everyone else. AFE has an excellent product and this forum's members sure make things easy.
The only downside is that now I need another mod. Hmmm.. that clutch bracket needs a preemptive solution...
edit: oh yeah, picture as it Did happen.
I found the 'grab the boot and (gently) yank' to be easiest way to remove the cover - tab survived nicely. Also the tip to unscrew the ashtray to allow easier access to two of the plate nuts.
The suggestion to use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to lever-remove the plastic cable blocks was invaluable.
Only 20 minutes start to finish.
There certainly is a "Springfield bolt action rifle" feel to the shifter; very precise and assured and of course a shorter throw.
Thanks to Richard, Gomez and everyone else. AFE has an excellent product and this forum's members sure make things easy.
The only downside is that now I need another mod. Hmmm.. that clutch bracket needs a preemptive solution...

edit: oh yeah, picture as it Did happen.
I really need to get one of those 90° needle nose pliers, those damn cable blocks are a pain in the ***.


