Sorry if I am repeating what's been done before or better but I couldn't find it on site and what I consider a minor repair of radiator replacement is definately a unique experience with these cars requiring alot of disassembly.

My 7 year old 59k radiator and reservoir were browning and getting brittle unbeknownst to me.

When I went to remove the old reservoir to try and fix the stuck float the brittle tit to the plastic radiator snapped off making the replacement an immediate non- optional issue. NOTE: Pull your top large radiator hose and if the plastic is brown replace your radiator ASAP or you'll be walking soon.

It took 2 hours to carefully remove all the plastic battery, air cleaner and connectors, hoses and undercover just to get at the fan/radiator/AC plus wiring looms at the bottom. I had to remove the radiator first and the fans second being careful not to damage the fins of the AC. There isn't enough room to pull it as an assy. I was unaware at the onset that the radiator has to come out the bottom of the car @ 45 degrees. On one's back with jack stands it's a tight fit. Draining the radiator was actually the "easy" part. Didn't have to drain the block side as the fluid was only 4000 miles old and was replacing over 1 gallon.

I decided to wait and get a good all aluminum one instead of the expensive and worthless one row OEM = $385+ tax at the local AZ and Adv stores.

I found ERZ online from CA and they sent me a Mizu 3 row all aluminum direct replacement for $219 + UPS @ 13lbs. They offer "free" shipping if you can wait 7 business days which is great and no sales tax.

The radiator is superbly built and packed better than anything I've ever seen. (I used some of the packing on the driveway under the radiator to protect it from gouges during installation.)

I compared all mounting points with the old unit before installation. GOOD thing as one tapped hole for the top fan mounting was off 1/8" so required a drilled slot in fan housing prior to install.

On my driveway laying on back was able to protect the AC with thin cardboard (from 12pack cooling in frig for later was perfect size.)

The Fan assy had to go in first and tied it up out of the way as much as possible.

There was no way by myself that I could guide the new radiator into the tight space without having my wife help me from above.

First lesson: I should have attached the 2 angled rubber top mounts to either the radiator frame or the radiator first to position that end for alignment.

Second lesson: Once your topside helper has guided the radiator as you pushed it where it is supposed to be. Have them hold it while you loosely reinstall the large 2 lower steel radiator mounts to keep the radiator in position while you align the fan and top rubber insulator mounts.

Third lesson: I wish I would have attached the small hose from the radiator tit to the reservoir prior to installation as it's a tight fit and hard to reach the clamp after bolted up.

Fourth lesson: I wish I would have installed all the broken plastic zip ties on the fan assy. with new ones (and just left them open) prior to installing the fan and trying to reattach all the wire looms and connectors back in the car. Simply because it's hard on one's old back leaning over the engine bay.

Fifth lesson: I paid $110+ S&H for a new reservoir to get the level indicator to work properly again. After the car was reassembled and filled with antifreeze it worked perfectly (magnet about 1/2 submerged on top of the antifreeze) initially and it was easy again to see the level. After a 1/2 hour of spirited highway driving the float stuck at the bottom and the light came back on requiring a couple pokes with a long plastic zip tie to make it pop back up again. So I have to assume it will get stuck frequently when I autocross!! So save your money if your tank doesn't leak. I will probably end up unplugging it again if it keeps getting stuck autocrossing a couple times/month.

The all aluminum 3 row radiator is fantastic and a great value too. Before, the prop rod for the hood would get so hot I could hardly hold it. Now it stays luke warm no matter what I do. The fan rarely runs at all anymore even after idling for 20 minutes on a 80F day. The temp gage stays glued to under 1/2 full gage no matter air temp or AC on full.

Again. Sorry if I am repeating what's been done before or better but I couldn't find it on site and it was somewhat of a long job. 5 hours not rushing. Hopefully this will save someone else alot of anguish.

 

this was your first lesson, before the others. you cant do anything about the sensor in the reservoir.

 

That's the joy of working on cars...that "oh ****" feeling when something goes terribly wrong and you need to get to work the next day

 

another tip for any radiator problem, it's best to not put any of that stop leak gunk in your radiator! just replace it if it gets to that point

 

or repair it if you feel qualified

but agreed, stay away from that crap

 

thanks for the post.
I actually have a mishimoto rad. sitting in my hallway waiting to be installed...
I don't know when...but someday I will...

 

Does this look familiar? I don't think you could repair this one. It just corroded in time.

Replaced mine with a Mishimito as well. I had to do a little hammering on the upper mounts that hangs the radiator on the frame. You'll see what I'm talking about trustbuddy once you replace yours.

 

i'll keep your advice in mind.

 

"I found ERZ online from CA and they sent me a Mizu 3 row all aluminum direct replacement for $219 + UPS @ 13lbs. They offer "free" shipping if you can wait 7 business days which is great and no sales tax."

what exactly did you buy and from where?

 

I just placed my order of a Mizu rad and AP hoses from ERZperformance.com, free shipping. my car is getting boosted very soon. lets see how it works..

 

http://www.erzperformance.com/Mizu_M...-mazda-rx8.htm

They carry other well known brands for good price too if you want to spend a tad more.

 

Hi everyone. My condenser attached to the radiator has two pipes connector to it. I disconnected them, and the pipes started leaking gas. Is that normal? Do I have to recharge the system?

Thanks,

Chad

 

Yes that sound was refrigerant escaping the system. At the minimum you'll have to recharge the air conditioning now.

Depending if you completely removed the lines you should probably replace the drier, which is built into the condenser. Depending on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle and how many miles are on the compressor, you might want to replace it as well.
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