DIY: No Heat? Repair the Heater Control
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
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Successfully completed the DIY no heating took between 2-3 hours just cause we had issues with one of the connectors getting back in. Had unscrew theft screw for stereo then pulled it out a little reconnected cored back to face-plate, still had no power or lights for stereo. Saw another thread on here about the Tabs with Gold screw bended them back to make faceplate complete snugged and power came back. Good guide Thanks guys.
Next the headlight. then solenoid. Love the car but man **** always breaking.
Next the headlight. then solenoid. Love the car but man **** always breaking.
New Member
Joined: Dec 2013
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Different heater control test Screen
Hi i have tried looking but i cannot find what i'm looking for iv'e done the control test pressing power button and the scan up but i get a different screen can any one help
my symptom is a luke warm heater and i have had the heater core flushed twice but still the same, ive put a picture on of the display panel
my symptom is a luke warm heater and i have had the heater core flushed twice but still the same, ive put a picture on of the display panel
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Joined: Dec 2013
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Yep I pressed the correct button the seek button does a display test the other scan button gives me that screen which I get an arrow to say the controls are working it points up when I increase the temp and points down when I lower the temp the pic I posted is a heater control test but not like yours this is a UK car if that makes a difference
Yep I pressed the correct button the seek button does a display test the other scan button gives me that screen which I get an arrow to say the controls are working it points up when I increase the temp and points down when I lower the temp the pic I posted is a heater control test but not like yours this is a UK car if that makes a difference
Mine says AC TEMP then tuning the **** goes from 0-16.
You turned the radio on first, yes?
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5
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From: Calgary, AB
Did this fix today on my 04. Prior to pulling out the stereo, did the power/scan test and the reading would jump from 0 to 16, and visa vera (every so often I'd see a random other number flash up briefly as well). Finding the hidden bolt on the stereo was by far the most frustrating part. I ended up taking out the driver seat to get a better view and eventually found it. Took about 3 hours from start to finish. Made a day of it also tackled the condensation in the rear tail light problem.
Registered
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 404
From: Collierville, TN
Completed this DIY and the addition of the AUX cable to the HU last Saturday. Couple hours of work... both worked like a charm. Heat & AC are functioning properly again, and she's streaming music flawlessly. Thanks for contributing to the RX8 community w/ the helpful DIY!
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Joined: Apr 2016
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So I was only getting hot hot air and decided to try this. After doing so i started to get very cold air from the side air vents and warm air in the middle. The next morning I turn on my AC and the cold air is coming out of all the vents! Now this morning it was a little chilly and I tried turning the heat on only to find out that the heat doesn't work now. Anyone know what I should do, maybe try reresoldering it?
Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 366
Likes: 4
From: Simi Valley-SoCal
Completed this DIY and the addition of the Grom unit with Bluetooth option. Spent the day over the July 4 weekend and got them both knocked out... Everything is working flawlessly 
One thing left is getting the Grom USB mounted inside the center console. Thank you OP and others for this great DIY.
One thing left is getting the Grom USB mounted inside the center console. Thank you OP and others for this great DIY.
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Joined: Oct 2016
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No heat and only cooling, or only heat and no cooling, or erratic temperature control?
The temperature control **** seems to have quite a bit of issues for early RX8 owners where the system will cool only, and not provide heat despite the position of the control ****. This can also work in the opposite way, only heating and no cooling. After living with it for a season, I finally pulled the heater control unit out and repaired the circuit board. It was simple to repair and because I was going to have to pull the unit out anyway to replace it, it was not much extra work. The replacement unit (part FE01-61-190) retails for $350, some vendors on this site sell it for $240ish, and I hear there are some that sell used parts for $125ish. It is definitely covered under warranty for those lucky enough to be under warranty.
If you do not have heat, or only have heat, IMHO it is most likey the AC/heater control unit. This is the part which has the AC/heat control buttons and *****.
Easy Diagnosis:
The easiest way to verify this is to turn on the radio, press and hold the power on/off button and press and hold the scan-up button for a second (full second). The word "A/C TEMP" should appear on the left of the display and a number from 0 to 16 on the right. I suspect yours will have the number 0 (or 16 if heating only problem) displayed no matter where you turn the temperature control ****. If this is the case you could turn the temp. **** to full heat and see if it goes to 16 after pushing down or to the right on the ****.
In a working system, the number moves evenly in increments of 1, from 0 to 16 as you turn the temperature ****.
Easy Fix:
I was able to take mine out and solder 3 loose connections to fix it.
The beginning steps are the same as for any radio removal procedure. Instead of reinventing the wheel I would like to direct anyone to John Masone’s excellent DIY for radio removal at this DIY:
DIY: Radio Removal / Add an AUX Input - RX8Club.com
or directly linked here:
What's My IP Address? - Obsolete Browser Page
The procedure is basically the same until page 7, second frame. Here is the modified step at that phase:
Removal of Heater Control Unit
I did not take pictures of the next step which is basically removing the cover on the temperature **** side of the control which requires a small screwdriver to three plastic clips on the perimeter of the cover. This will be evident when you get it in front of you. I stripped the circuit board down further than you may need to because I was also repairing cracked defrost (windshield and rear) buttons with superglue.
Then re-solder the 3 joints indicated in the next photos. A little bit of heat and just a little extra solder and they should be good to go.
Front of Heater Control Circuit Board
Front of Temperature Control **** (3 connections noted)
Back of Heater Control Circuit Board
Back of Heater Control ****
3 Bad Solder Joints (Note cracks) Prior to Re-soldering
I did the power-button/up scan combination to get the head unit to display the dial position and it now travels even increments from 0 to 16, instead of jumping from 0 to 16 when pushed like before. And the temperature control works perfectly.
Good luck.
The temperature control **** seems to have quite a bit of issues for early RX8 owners where the system will cool only, and not provide heat despite the position of the control ****. This can also work in the opposite way, only heating and no cooling. After living with it for a season, I finally pulled the heater control unit out and repaired the circuit board. It was simple to repair and because I was going to have to pull the unit out anyway to replace it, it was not much extra work. The replacement unit (part FE01-61-190) retails for $350, some vendors on this site sell it for $240ish, and I hear there are some that sell used parts for $125ish. It is definitely covered under warranty for those lucky enough to be under warranty.
If you do not have heat, or only have heat, IMHO it is most likey the AC/heater control unit. This is the part which has the AC/heat control buttons and *****.
Easy Diagnosis:
The easiest way to verify this is to turn on the radio, press and hold the power on/off button and press and hold the scan-up button for a second (full second). The word "A/C TEMP" should appear on the left of the display and a number from 0 to 16 on the right. I suspect yours will have the number 0 (or 16 if heating only problem) displayed no matter where you turn the temperature control ****. If this is the case you could turn the temp. **** to full heat and see if it goes to 16 after pushing down or to the right on the ****.
In a working system, the number moves evenly in increments of 1, from 0 to 16 as you turn the temperature ****.
Easy Fix:
I was able to take mine out and solder 3 loose connections to fix it.
The beginning steps are the same as for any radio removal procedure. Instead of reinventing the wheel I would like to direct anyone to John Masone’s excellent DIY for radio removal at this DIY:
DIY: Radio Removal / Add an AUX Input - RX8Club.com
or directly linked here:
What's My IP Address? - Obsolete Browser Page
The procedure is basically the same until page 7, second frame. Here is the modified step at that phase:
Removal of Heater Control Unit
I did not take pictures of the next step which is basically removing the cover on the temperature **** side of the control which requires a small screwdriver to three plastic clips on the perimeter of the cover. This will be evident when you get it in front of you. I stripped the circuit board down further than you may need to because I was also repairing cracked defrost (windshield and rear) buttons with superglue.
Then re-solder the 3 joints indicated in the next photos. A little bit of heat and just a little extra solder and they should be good to go.
Front of Heater Control Circuit Board
Front of Temperature Control **** (3 connections noted)
Back of Heater Control Circuit Board
Back of Heater Control ****
3 Bad Solder Joints (Note cracks) Prior to Re-soldering
I did the power-button/up scan combination to get the head unit to display the dial position and it now travels even increments from 0 to 16, instead of jumping from 0 to 16 when pushed like before. And the temperature control works perfectly.
Good luck.
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
Check to if any cracks on the faceplate plastic
Well,
I had a radio issue when I first had the car. Turns out the faceplate where the screws align onto the metal harness were broken. I did a plastic bond repair and placed aligned all the pieces and then had to re-angle the harness to when the faceplate matches up there is some pressure holding the faceplate to the adjoining section of the radio.
I had a radio issue when I first had the car. Turns out the faceplate where the screws align onto the metal harness were broken. I did a plastic bond repair and placed aligned all the pieces and then had to re-angle the harness to when the faceplate matches up there is some pressure holding the faceplate to the adjoining section of the radio.
New Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks so much...
Just bought a 2004 RX8 for my 17 year-old son. Cherry red with black rims and a spoiler. He absolutely loves it, but of course the heat didn't work. We followed the instructions in your post and it worked perfectly! A free fix is rare indeed. Thanks so much.
New Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Shinka
Hi, first of all, I want to say thank you for this site.
My RX-8 is having the heater issues described above.
Yet, when I hold the temperature adjust **** down from the top, my heat works fine. It's just a pain to do so. I've been looking for the 3 **** part on line, and most places are asking if it is a "shinka" or not. I am at a loss to explain.
I feel like a moron.
Any help?
My RX-8 is having the heater issues described above.
Yet, when I hold the temperature adjust **** down from the top, my heat works fine. It's just a pain to do so. I've been looking for the 3 **** part on line, and most places are asking if it is a "shinka" or not. I am at a loss to explain.
I feel like a moron.
Any help?
New Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2
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When I start the hold on/off+scan I get a fully lit screen with many icons for things that normally display on screen. I also get multiple columns of squares of light below cryptic small labels on the left 2/3 of the screen. The car was running. I will try with car off and key in Acc position.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
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I'v tried to follow this, i'm in the uk and my heater control looks different and the circuit board is different, Pascal100 I get the same screen as you when I follow the test control procedure.
How do I get to the heater core to flush it?
How do I get to the heater core to flush it?
New Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I thought my heating problem was due to soldering problems so I re-soldered but nothing changed. Today I figured out my car has no coolant left so I added more in and it fixed my heating problem
New Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
I eager to try this button combo for I to am having issues with no heat. And in PA that's a fail for inspection so now I cant even drive my 04 Renesis till I fix this issue but I have ONE Question. Will this work on and aftermarket radio.....I went to take out my stock radio unit and the guy before me Destroyed the back of it. So I bought and touch screen version hooked everything up thinking that the damage was the issue sooo I imagine now this is going to be harder for me to do...
anyone got and tips for me...
I was going to buy a new circuit board and work my way from there, now im thinking I should try this but again not sure if anyone else changed the radio out like I did.
anyone got and tips for me...
I was going to buy a new circuit board and work my way from there, now im thinking I should try this but again not sure if anyone else changed the radio out like I did.
New Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
MASS AIRFLOW CLEANESs
Sorry for posting here guys I need help with mass flow sensor cleaness. I live in remote areas and there is no way I can get Mass air flow sensor cleaner. I google and they say I could use gasoline or Ant-rust to clean my mass air flow sensor, so should I use gasoline and no harm will be done to my car? Thanks
