WELL gang here is another HAPPY ENDING. My daughters car had been acting up she said that when you put the ac on it would get hot then cold. Well I drove this morning and could not get any heat to work got to my office and checked out the DIY section and there it be. Took about an hour to fix and my youngest son did it since he had a little experance putting in the ipod adapter in. Hell he gave me a bunch of crap say that can't be it. Well had the 3 loose soder joints and now it WORKS!!!!

Keep up all the great help

wro87

 

Chalk up another victory for ClubRX8.

I pick the car last week (used). I did not need the heat and never checked it before buying it. I checked the AC and it worked and my guess is because it would never read higher than 0.

At first I thought there was no coolant (leaked out somewhere or something). I stopped the car at the first gas station to check on it. The temp did not go up and there was lots of coolant

Total time to get it fixed was about 14 hours.

I had to wait overnight because I did not have any sodder and we don't have any 24 hour walmarts... I drove out to one I thought was open, but it was closed

I have not tried it out yet, but I did the test and it now registers 0-16 and not just 0

Thanks for the DIY

 

I ripped my radio out as well... did the solder repair on the 3 points noted at the beginning of the thread.... Took a total of about 45 mins to complete.

Now my heat works perfect.....

Had the exsact issue as stated... either cold or full hot... nothing in between.

Crazy that Mazda did not solder those properly on all the cars? It's not like people twist the crap out of that ****????

anyhooooo... works great now.

Thanks!!!

 

I just did this fix last week, Thank god, and Wingnut. I was really freezing my ***** off in the morning on the way to work. Never soldered before, and everything went well, so ya!

 

Just finished to put all parts together and the it is working neatly. Excellent post the heater control works smooth now!!!!!! Spent like 4 hours doing the whole thing but at least I didn't have to pay for this, easy money!!!!

 

Excellent! I just finished puting the parts together and the heater is working just fine. It goes from 1-16 with no problem. I'm glad you guys figure this one out cuz I didn't have to pay for this fix, I spent like 4 hours working on this but my bank account is as happy as I am!!!!

 

wow, what a mess that was, but it worked! thanks so much wingnut for putting this up

 

Just finished this fix took a total of 1.5 hours and cost 15 bucks for the soldering iron and the solder. Fix couldnt have been easier and I have never used a soldering iron before in my life. Great DIY post!

 

With the help of this forum, the wife's '06 HVAC was repaired in about an hour. This should have been a Mazda recall. The QC on the circuit board was terrible if not non existant. Thanks to the forums members for the info. Given the opportunity I will return the favour.

Mr. Hemi.

 

Worked like a charm! Thanks to OP!

Unfortunately now the A/C button stays on and the defrost button won't go on since I installed the Metra Kit.

Does anyone know a fix for this? The Metra people think I may have cracked another solder point. I'm thinking of taking it out again and re-soldering all points

 

first of all, are you seeing this behavior when you have the key in the 'on' position? when you turn the key to accessory, it looks like it isn't working correctly. next, i would certainly try to take everything apart in terms of the climate controls and then reassemble it. could be a bad connection, something not plugged in all the way, something in the wrong place, etc. also, visually inspect the cables that came with the kit to make sure they don't look damaged in any way.

 

It happens with the key in the "On" or "Accessory" position. It only happens when the fan control is on.

I'll check the connections when I get home, hopefully it is that simple.

 

it was pretty helpfull i just fix my heat today and now works perfect thank u very much.
u save me 400$ that the dealer try to charge me just for the part.

 

I disconnected and reconnected all connections, it is fine now. Thanks!

 

Ok so I've never soldered anything but do I just make the areas that are circled in the pic into a bigger bump with the sodder? So it can touch the power or w.e?
Also will this work for the rear window defogger
And my led's behind the control seem loose because when I hit a bump the led's for the climate control go on and off, and the led's for everything else seem dimmer than they should be, is there is a way to fix this? I know the whole dimming system and when I turn to all the way up it doesn't seem as bright as is should be

 

I signed up to say thanks. This worked perfectly.

 

I signed up to say thanks. This worked perfectly.


Wingnut is the MAN!

 

thank you very much for this tread, my *** was frezzing in the 8! thank you for the time that you put on doing this DIY

 

This repair worked great for me! Thank you for putting this method out there. 2004 RX-8. Taking that 10 mm bolt out resulted in the bolt falling behind the carpet, never to be seen again, just as warned. So what, there are more bolts where that came from!

I found cold solder joints on the three solder terminals for the multiposition heater control switch. Original post was right on the money!

Thanks, it's good to be warm again,
David

 

I started this today and for the life of me I can't get the ashtray light out. That white tab is not budging. I'll try again tomorrow. I don't want to keep messing with it while I'm pissed. I'll probably break something.

 

I couldn't get it out by pushing on the little white part showing in the picture. Instead of pushing from the "top" on the white, I pried it out from the back with a small screwdriver between the white light holder and the black ashtray.

 

Just did it and works great, thanks!

 

Is there anyone in the GTA/Toronto area that wouldn't mind doing this for me? Cash paid

 

So if I took out the right one, the bolt is about 3/4" long, correct? I can only get the radio to come out a little on the bottom, but the top won't budge. Not sure why and I don't want to break anything.

 

^^^Never mind. Finally got it done. Praise the Lord...Hallelujah... I have heat! Dial now goes from 0-16 just fine when you do the test. Kind of a PITA but when it cost me around $12 (soldering iron and solder) instead of several hundred at the stealership I guess I'll take it.

I had read through most of the posts here before I started and the only thing I would add that might help some people is if you happen to have one of those eyeglass repair kits that have a bunch of the tiny flathead screwdrivers in them...they work great for undoing the clips in back of the radio. Really skinny, short, and you can squeeze them back there fairly easily.