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DIY: How to fix your fish bowl tail lights.

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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 10:46 PM
  #51  
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From: toledo ohio
foam is not necessary really but still a good diy
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 01:24 AM
  #52  
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It is necessary when the factory gasket is practically decomposed.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 07:24 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
It is necessary when the factory gasket is practically decomposed.
saynotopistons im glad you threw your foam idea up even with the flak others have given you. Mine were "replaced by mazda last year" according to previous owner. they were very cracked and worn. chuck full of dust and junk from the trunk 'gutters'.

i followed your instructions to a t, theyre currently curing now. will see how they do in the next few days!
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 11:43 PM
  #54  
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No problem! Good luck on your fix. Update us when you're finished.
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:39 PM
  #55  
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From: nky - cincinnati
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
No problem! Good luck on your fix. Update us when you're finished.
well im 1 in 2...

driver side is 100% good no issues.

...last night passenger side fogged up again not nearly as bad but i need to do some more sealing. i suspect it has a crack around it i missed.
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 11:37 PM
  #56  
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Working on mine tonight. Let the tail light outside to dry and will finish up in the morning. Thanks for the great diy bro
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #57  
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From: Panama City, FL
This fix worked like a dream. Had to seal up some holes drilled in the other tail light, previous owner was a bum apparantley.

Also, I have the black plague on my hands now. In hindsight gloves would indeed have been a good idea.
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #58  
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From: nky - cincinnati
update - reworked my still leaky tail and both have been dry since. it has gotten down to 9 degrees here so im very happy with the fix.
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 02:23 PM
  #59  
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From: Central FL
little correction

the tail lights are NOT completely sealed, the bulb sockets are not sealed so dirt can still enter the tail lights. it's a poor design initially. the unsealed sockets are how the water enter the housings through leaky chassis seals.

i do wish they would have sealed the bulbs to the housings, would have cured these issues right off the bat. airing them out is a pain, took several hours to get all the water out of my RR lamp assembly even with 100psi of compressed air.

Last edited by Karack; Jan 24, 2013 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #60  
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From: nky - cincinnati
Originally Posted by Karack
little correction

the tail lights are NOT completely sealed, the bulb sockets are not sealed so dirt can still enter the tail lights. it's a poor design initially. the unsealed sockets are how the water enter the housings through leaky chassis seals.

i do wish they would have sealed the bulbs to the housings, would have cured these issues right off the bat. airing them out is a pain, took several hours to get all the water out of my RR lamp assembly even with 100psi of compressed air.
Karack - i had success using a turkey baster & tipped them over a HVAC vent in my house over night.


Update:
still no moisture through our 6-9 degree winter, freezing rain, and snow. warmed up again to 64 for 2 days back to 10 still dry!!

i'll add some photos. attempt one got f'd up, i think the silicone expanded or i was afraid of over tightening the tails with the additional foam. one stayed dry. i left it alone.

i made straight sections with notches and removed the oem gasket
housing - silicone - gasket - silicone - foam + between notches of straight parts.

perfection finally!
Attached Thumbnails DIY: How to fix your fish bowl tail lights.-img_8325.jpg   DIY: How to fix your fish bowl tail lights.-img_8332.jpg   DIY: How to fix your fish bowl tail lights.-img_8333.jpg  
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #61  
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Since 2009 I removed my taillights, dryed them out with compressed air. Cleaned all debri from the gaskets and vehicle, then applied RTV between the gasket and vehicle. I've had ZERO issues since
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #62  
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From: nky - cincinnati
Originally Posted by viprez586
Since 2009 I removed my taillights, dryed them out with compressed air. Cleaned all debri from the gaskets and vehicle, then applied RTV between the gasket and vehicle. I've had ZERO issues since
glad it worked for you, hope you dont have to remove them ever :|
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:33 PM
  #63  
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From: Hominy, OK
This reminded me, five months have gone by and still no leaky tail lights
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by ethan
glad it worked for you, hope you dont have to remove them ever :|
Don't plan on it, not changing the lamps for rice. If I do I'll buy the updated gaskets. Not hard to remove RTV.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 04:47 PM
  #65  
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Thanks for your time and effort to post this fix. Just got my 06 and of course it was full of water and condensation after the first rain. Very poor job from the factory. They only used two sided tape halfway around the very thin gaskets. I didn't notice if you had a small gasket at the bottom of your lights. Will also be applying RTV on those ones. At least it was a cheap remedy. Thanks again.
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #66  
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Alternative Solution including water in the trunk

Hi,

I'd like to relate my experience and a potential alternative solution to both water in the tail lights and trunk flooding as they were one in the same for me.

I just acquired my extremely low mileage 2009 RX8 that was sunny day only driven, only to discover that my tail lights fog and I then had a trunk flooding incident after a heavy rain.

After extensive testing (lots of water around the trunk lid with trunk liner removed), I discovered that there are body panel seams that are not sealed. One spot above each tail light and another where the 3/4 panel joins the top of the trunk just below each top corner by the rear window. Both appear to be a factory QA problem.

In my case, the water would pool above the tail light gasket, seep through this seam and run down into the tail light from above and inside the trunk!

The second, more subtle leak was harder to diagnose, but when I sealed these and dried out my tail lights, further testing showed there were no more issues.

Here is a link to photos of what I'm going on about https://picasaweb.google.com/1149110...s?noredirect=1

Hope this helps more of you solve this problem!
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Old Sep 11, 2014 | 03:44 PM
  #67  
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From: portland oregon
Thanks SNTP for the DIY. Had my first condensation/water in the tail light problem fixed 8 years ago under warranty and the seal has apparently failed again. condensation in the light and the bulb is burnt out.


will be taking care of this after a trip to the store for supplies. or maybe the rotaryfx site
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #68  
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From: Kitchener
Just double checking before I do this... will this work for a series II? I couldn't find a relevant thread in the diy section of series II's
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 11:58 AM
  #69  
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From: Utrecht, Netherlands
I experienced the same wellknown RX-8 problem, which is a partly faulty bonding of the clear cover and the black taillight body base.
Thus finally I discovered that it were not the seals but the bonding of the 2 taillight halves; after repair I instantly NEVER had any more water/fogging of my tail light. It was the passenger side which was the faulty one but I decided to repair them both.

Mine (series 1) was also always fogging since new (without accident); I tried the new improved type of gaskets of Mazda and payed a lot attention to a precise installation etc. still fogging........
Many other owners have the same problem and also always on the passenger side.........I now assume that this is a common production (sealing) failure of the subsupplier of the taillight and probabely only for the passengers side one (however I have heard since short also about leaking of the other taillight).
At last I submerged it in a bath; light bulb openings at the lowest point.
There was a small leak (tiny air bubbles escaped) between the clear plastic- and the black plastic halves {both (supposed to be) "sealed/glued" together} at the upper part of the light assembly (in mounted position). Rain water could enter constantly there.
The design of the taillight is in such a way that there is some common slot/free space between these halves (where sometimes green algea is deposited). In this slot/free space silicone kit can be applied almost all around the tail light. At first this space should be cleaned thoroughly in advance; removing dirt and algea.
Thereafter I rubbed clear silicone kit in this free space all around (360 degrees) the whole common sealing joint of both halves.
I did NOT inject it with the commonly used nozzle of the silicone cartridge pistol since in that situation you can not fill the common space sufficiently and will not achieve a complete uninterrupted sealing without enclosed air bubbles.
Apply the clear silicone kit in a "rich" manner time after time on your middle finger and rub/press it (in a 45 degr. angle versus the sealing joint of both tail light halves) into their common joint. You go all around the taillight paying good attention not to enclose trapped air......it takes some time but it is progressing surprisingly well. It is just like a wave of kit that you are driving forward around the joint.
Remove/clean the overdosis of silicone kit with terpentine and finally rinse the inner side of the tail light with distilled water in order to prevent limescale from the clear bathwater. Dry it at a moderate temperature with a hair dryer or give it a sunbath.
There is no specific expertise needed for this kind of repair; everybody can do it.
This worked perfectly for me.......never more any fog in my taillight.
Let me know if your repair is succesfull too!


https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...thread-254906/
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #70  
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Based on my experience, I'd have to say that it's likely that most, if not all, of these tail light fogging/condensation/water leakage issues have nothing to do with the tail light assembly itself, but instead a body panel gap/seal manufacturing issue. See my previous post for photos, but I'd recommend testing yourself before going to the effort and mess of siliconing or buying new gaskets.

The test is simple. With the trunk panels removed and tail lights in place, pour water around the trunk lid between the trunk seal and the body and carefully observe above the tail lights on the inside of the trunk. It's likely the body panel interface where the 3/4 panel meets the trunk rear panel just above each tail light is not sealed, water drips in and finds it's way into the back of the tail light assembly from inside the trunk.

On my car there was not only this problem but at each lower corner below the rear window where the 3/4 panel meets the trunk shell, another almost impossible to see gap existed from the factory. Water slowly trickled through this and ran down a channel to drip inside close the tail light.

Once I sealed both of those up, I can high pressure wash my tail lights and even the trunk channels and haven't had an issue since.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:54 AM
  #71  
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LED a casualty of fishbowl fix (my bad)

followed instructions carefully and sealed the lights, but accidentally creased the wire to the LED side marker lights (I have a 2005) when reinstalling. i removed tailight again and reinstalled with connector to LED in correct hole, but now it will not light up. should i check fuse? try to rewire? buy a new tailight? so pissed i messed up.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:51 PM
  #72  
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is there any way to safely separate the rear tail light to clean the inside someone had drilled mine before i got it and it has dirt inside the light
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 11:13 PM
  #73  
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i believe you have to cook it in your oven
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #74  
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From: LA
Originally Posted by delusionaldude
followed instructions carefully and sealed the lights, but accidentally creased the wire to the LED side marker lights (I have a 2005) when reinstalling. i removed tailight again and reinstalled with connector to LED in correct hole, but now it will not light up. should i check fuse? try to rewire? buy a new tailight? so pissed i messed up.
Check the connector (both male and female). Use a multimeter if need be.

Originally Posted by DoubleBlack8
is there any way to safely separate the rear tail light to clean the inside someone had drilled mine before i got it and it has dirt inside the light
Not a clean way that I know of. If I recall correctly, they're ultrasonic welded plastic. Baking them will not release the adhesion like headlights (butyl/permaseal).
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #75  
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hey there I bought a 2004 last week and I replaced the messed up taillights with a set of aftermarket ones off Amazon:

Amazon.com: Tyc FE01-51-180G FE01-51-170G Mazda Rx8 Driver & Passenger Side Replacement Tail Light: Automotive Amazon.com: Tyc FE01-51-180G FE01-51-170G Mazda Rx8 Driver & Passenger Side Replacement Tail Light: Automotive

They come with a thick foam gasket and I was curious if others have tried these TYC ones and if they still leak or if I have to modify the gaskets. The STOCK lights had a really thin gasket when I pulled the old lights off but these are pretty thick. Not sure if anyone had had experience with these. I want to know before I try to get the car through a wash or leave it out in the rain!
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