DOMINION, did you use any wd40, etc? You can also try placing a scre driver in the slots and hitting that with a hammer.

 

I used this one like that. Its the kind you can tighten. But that just sliped off and hit me on the foot.


Yeah I tryed WD40 and my Dad said try setting it on fire. I was like WTF?. I dont think I have a scre driver. Whats it look like?

This is starting to **** me off and working out in 105 heat for hr & 1/2 on one bolt sux

 

lol sory scre = screw. The idea is to send some impact down the screw to loosen any rust built up.

Cheers

Andrew

 

can you take a pic of the bolt you are having trouble with ?
Really - these bolts should not be difficult to undo ......

 

Well my wheels are back on but I found this pic. You get the idea.

 

Those are the ones you want to remove. 17mm that should be on no tighter than 75 ft lbs which is tight, but with a long enough handle can be removed with hand tools. Can you stop by a Sears and get a long 1/2" breaker bar and 17mm 1/2 6-point socket?

 

Its to late now but I will on Monday. Thanks guys for all your help.

 

Yeah - like expo says , you need a decent 1/2" drive socket set . Good tools will make the job easy .

I bet you were using one of those $19.95 for 10,000 pieces tool kits

 

No.

 

ohh sorry mate I thought you were having issue with the bolts holding on the rotors. Like expo said, you need a 17mm open spanner on the opposite side of the rotor to whats in the picture.

 

how did you go?

 

Well the Rotors in the front are to tall and the brake line kit has 4 lines my car has 6?! see-> http://www.pettitracing.com for brake line kit.

So I had to buy OEM Rotors. But the OEM Rotors with the Hawk HP+ pads in the front are squelling like mad! What do I do?

Oh yeah I went to a shop they had to air gun them off!

 

On the squealing, did you retain the oem shims? From memory there are 2 on each front pad and 1 on each rear.

Have you spoken to Pettit about the lines and rotor sizes?

Cheers

Andrew

 

Well I got some probs with this set up and I'm going to try and post a vid on you tube right now then post it in the RX-8 Multimedia/Photo Gallery thread. So go check it out!

 

Yes sir, but I think my Rotors are slipping and that might be due to the tap screw missing and the grip of the HP+ pads

I emaild Pettit Racing today and I'm waiting for a response. Don't want to call them as they are in the Fl where I'm in NV in the US.

 

what is " master cylinder " ? where it is located under the hood? can one of you guys like take a picture and post it on here? sorry.....i feel so stupid..but i'm going to try to replace brake pads for the very first time...haha

 

Don't take this personally but if you don't know what & where the master cylinder is you shouldn't be doing anything with the brake system.

 

WHile I agree that you may want to do a little more research before doing this yourself (or even going and watching someone else do it) to answer the question https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=45198. Its not mu picture and it happens to be highlighting the bleed nipple, but the cylinder is behind that...big black thing.

Cheers

Andrew

 

Thanks to all (esp. expo). With your assist I was able to change my front pads w/Hawk HPS. I'll be changing the rears when the time comes.

Finally have quiet brakes. Used disc break cleaner to dust off the shims prior to application. I applied some CRC Disk Break Quiet (<$5 the red stuff in a lil' plastic bottle) on the shims. Maybe a little too much cuz there's some excess which got pressed out but not enuff to drip on to the ground.

Also found a vid on you tube with dude changing RX8 pads. For some reason he takes off both bolts of the caliper which after doing the job I found unnecessary. I found the tool he used to push in the piston @ Kragen, cost just under $10 (Disc Brake Pad Spreader) but probably should have went with the C clamp.

Yo Crafted Soul check yourself before you wreck yourself eh?

As for my mech experience, very little. But i can fix just about everything on a bicycle and I do my own tune ups and can follow instructions. Why pay for stuff I can do. So I consider myself handy. If you believe you yourself are handy keep researching and proceed with caution. I researched for a couple of weeks before I figured this is something I can do.

There's also a vid of a dude changing the pads of a prelude from start to finish on youtube with a jack. You can pick up some safe practices by watching him (like placing your wheel under your car, just in case the jack fails and using a torque wrench etc.). He doesn't talk but watch what he does.

As for the master cylinder, check your owners' manual where the brake fluid is. This is the cap you need to remove and cover with a rag in case of overflow (btw I was lucky and didn't have that problem). But make sure you clean up before you remove the cap. Having dirt particles in your brake fluid could ruin your entire brake system.

Lastly if you do decide to proceed understand where the brake lines are and be careful not to harm them. Make sure you have all the tools you need before you begin (this is where this thread helped the most). And be careful. Instead of saving moolah, if you're not careful you can wind up wasting a bunch.

Good luck and if you have a mech inclined pal talk to them for pointers (I did). It's how I found out what I didn't know I didn't know and usually that's what does you in.

 

Can I ask if the video was http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZyFmV-dt8w if so then its me and I am curious why you think removing the 2 bolts is silly.

Also, with the anti-squeal, becarefull putting it anywhere near pistons. On the track, I have found that enough heat can build up and cause it to melt and stick the boot to the piston.

Cheers

Andrew

 

I meant no offense. My apologies. Poor use of words. Actually thanks to you I gained the confidence to do the job.

Probably should have wrote unnecessary. Especially for clumsy folk like myself. I could easily drop the caliper and put myself in a costly situation since I'm far from capable of fixing a ruptured breakline.

Thanks for the additional advice. I'll have to take my wheels off and check the backside.

 

Look at this pic. Its in the bottom right hand of this pic. Its the black thing behind where you fill up your brake fluid.

 

No offence taken. I was more looking at reasons not to do it.

Yes I can see now what you mean. Its more that its unessesarry. I am not sure which video it was in but oneof them I warn about putting the caliper somewhere so as not to bend/twist the brake line, especially those with rubber lines.

I have since taken to using an "octopus strap" to hold it up while inspecting and changing.

Cheers

Andrew

 

Are you supposed to clean and re-grease the caliper sliders as part of the brake job?

 

Yes. I would.