DIY: Battery relocation to trunk
 

Picture 1

Remove engine cover.
Remove battery cover.

(Consolidation coming soon for easy and more detailed setup, as well as other setups from other members)

A little side note run a good ground from the engine to the chassis, and maybe an extra ground off the battery for a more ground proof setup to another sturdy spot in the back.

Picture 2

Disconnect the battery.
Remove battery tie down.
Sounds harsh, but slice through the main harness being careful to only cut the wires that keep the lines by the battery mainly grounds, EPS. It's easier to tell once you got all the wire loom and tape off of everything. Picture of the postive terminal block is on page 2 post 49.
Keep track of the ground wires by putting the connectors on them.

Picture 3

Take the battery box out, sorry I didn't take pictures of the bolts while the box was in.
The bolts are located by the arrows and are 10mm.

Picture 4

Take the 60 amp fuse holder and connect the EPS line to it.

Picture 5

Just a closer picture of the fuse holder for the EPS line.
Under the holder you can see the ground wires and the location I picked to ground them.

Picture 6

A clear shot of the ground wires.

Picture 7

Take the 100 amp fuse holder and connect the main power line to it.

Picture 7

Sorry, got ahead of myself.

Picture 8

Connect both fuse holders together along with the rest of the power wires.
The arrows show the fuses put in the holders.

Picture 9

Run the 2ga wire up along the strut tower.

Picture 10

I ran it under the harness, don't forget the zip ties also.

Picture 11

Shows it going through the firewall, make sure to put some grease on the end of the wire so it will slide through easier.

Picture 12

Shows the wire coming through the inside of the firewall. I had to put a slice right below the wires since the hole would not stretch anymore, be careful since you need to guard against the metal, when I cut there was plenty protecting the wire.

Picture 13

The circles show where the plastic trim would be, take them off.
The arrow up by the number 13 shows you have to take the drivers side seat out.
Run the wire where the arrow shows close to the fuel lever.

Picture 14

In the circle is a hole that runs under the support, you will need a thick screwdriver to pry up slightly to fit the wire under.
The arrow shows a ton of electrical tape since it will be surrounded by metal, just a precaution I like to take.

Picture 15

Shows the wire coming out the other side.

Picture 16

Run the wire along side the back seat now.
The arrow up by the number 16 you gotta take the seat out.
The circle show the seatbelt rail, it must come off also.

Picture 17

Shows along under where the back seat would be.
Don't forget the zip ties.

Picture 18

Shows the underneath of the upper back seat.
The top arrow shows where it goes into the trunk.

Picture 19

Shows the other side by the arrow where it comes in from the inside of the car to the trunk and the route.

Picture 20

You put a small slice in the carpet.

Picture 21

Put the slit in for the ground wire.

Picture 22

Run the ground cable to the passenger side strut tower.

Picture 23

Shows where to connect the ground wire.

am i missing something - why?

Picture 24

The very bottom circle is the support for the battery box, one on both sides of the box and they get screwed down.
After the tie downs are screwed down you can put the battery in the box. I also used double sided industrial velcro on the bottom of the battery to keep it from doing any moving from side to side, even though it's already a tight fit.
Put the terminals on the lines and connect the ground wire to the battery.
Hook the last 100 amp fuse holder and put the fuse in.

Picture 25

The finished product without the cover.

Picture 26

Put the cover on and your good to go.
I've had this setup for some time now and no problems with anything. This is also a good diy for an amp.

Parts you need
18-21 ft of 2ga wire
Three screwed ground connectors
Zip ties of your color you like
2 - 100 amp fuses and holders
1 - 60 amp fuse and holder
Battery tie down box

Total price was around $75.00

If I missed anything please let me know.

I'm concerned about the strength of the tie-down method you used. Consider that in the event of a collision, that battery may generate several thousands pounds of force! That concentrated force in such a small package, could possibly break through the bulkhead and be lethal. It would be a formidable projectile. I'm not sure the anchors you used are up to the task. The thin plastic box doesn't inspire too much confidence either. If I were to relocate I'd want a strong metal box or metal brackets, and it would need to be held down with some serious hardware -- machine-grade bolts, nuts, and large washers to spread the load. A few little screws is taking a big chance, imo.

http://www.ohioinsuranceadvisors.com...=1114437902702

Several possible valid reasons

-free up space under the hood for modifications

-weight distribution

-allow use of a larger than stock battery (for audio, etc)

- remove battery from the heat environment, for longevity.

Cons:

- longer than normal cable run (make up for it with thick cable)

- semi-enclosed environment (use an AGM battery to avoid hydrogen gas buildup, better yet use an AGM *and* provide vent tubes.

- Need to take great care to ensure that the heavy battery does not become a lethal projectile in the event of a head-on collision.

- additional run of high-amperage conductor through the passenger compartment can add fire risk.

I understand where your coming from. The box is accually a marine box for boats so it should be pretty safe, but I will be getting a nice metal bracket from lowes to secure it more, I already have extra screws in the box itself also.

Me and my one friend after it was in, we both got in the trunk and both tugged like hell and it didn't budge. I will take some more pictures when I get the main bracket I want. If those plastic clips did break the battery will still be enclosed in the box.

You don't have to buy those kinda boxes anyway, I just went with it cause it was there and I can make the extra's of what I need, just haven't got around to it.

Well I've got the material and it is finally installed.

1/4" stainless bolts
1/4" stainless washers
1/4" stainless lock nuts

And a nice thick piece of aluminum

The bracket after I shaped it to fit.

Did you bolt it through the floor? When you were doing this DIY that's the most important thing I was looking for. As Nubo said, sheet metal screws won't cut it. High grade bolts, nuts and BIG washers FTW. Also, as a side note, I would have mounted it as close the rear seats as possible: weight more centered and if it breaks loose it won't have time/space to get up to speed coming toward the cabin.

Yeah, after he said that it got me thinking, and as you can see in the pictures it's bolted through the floor with the material I have shown in the new pictures on both ends of the bracket and also inside the box.

I like where it's at, but that's all in everyone's own opinion I guess, not to far away from the center, but pretty close, but has the nice dip it sits in to help support it also, plus I can fit a full size spare in the trunk with it down in the dip as to when I had it positioned it behind the seats.

I do want to thank nubo for all that also. Now I feel a lot safer, since I thought basically the same thing about the screws.

One more note on if it would break lose now, that would be one horrible accident and sadly if that were to happen I don't think we would make it, but you never know.

so what happens if i just attach fat wires to the original battery connectors in the front, then run those wires to the trunk?

Do you mean for an amp, or hooking another battery up in series, I'm a little confused. If your doing power for an amp you just need to run a power line to the trunk, and find a ground for the amp in the trunk.

naw, i mean take the battery wires off the battery post and splice fat cables to the battery wires (positive and negative) and run them to the trunk, then connect the wires to the battery

That's basically what I did, but you don't have to run the negative to the trunk. You just take the ground wires up front and ground them, then ground the battery in the trunk.

very cool bro. what is the reason/plan for doing the relocation? just weight distro. or you going to be putting serious mods in the engine bay?

It's a little of both, plus it makes it easier to do anything in the engine now also. If I can't get a turbo or supercharger then it's wide open, plus I think it looks better that way.

nice i can imagine all the space that was opened up doing that lol i couldnt do that do to my patience level and i use my trunk to carry all my books and random shit lol

Isn't the car supposed to be 50/50 anyway? Can't see how it would help distri then...

what gauge of wires would you suggest to use for the positive running to the trunk?

I went with 2 so I would go with 2 gauge RRNoob so you don't have to much resistance.

I know the car is supposed to be a 50/50, but it changed up the steering just a we bit for the better, and it also put weight above the back tires for better grip, especially in winter also. I really don't know though if 50lbs is going to change it that much.

the weight is never perfectly distributed.

think about what sits in the front drivers side...

i dont understand why you think that being in the trunk turns the battery into a "lethal projectile".. you think its gonna shoot through the trunk , through the seats, into someones face?

And do you honestly think the factory location/tiedowns are any better ? you can easily snap the foot long 5mm thick bolts and hangars with something as easy as going into a ditch...

otherwise i see more pros than cons in relocating the battery , although i would put it somewhere more effective than right in the middle. i am sure its easy to jump you off if you break down, but makes a PITA to put anything in the trunk like luggage or something

Do you have a better pic of what you did with the factory fuse holder that goes on the positive terminal?

Yes I do, sorry.

So you eliminated that piece all together?