I second every word of this. Did the same with my 14g speaker wire.

Ohh well, I guess will be a battle for me… too late now to give up…
I hope I can find a better guide than taking off the door completely…

Im thinking of since there's constant 4.5V, maybe i can generate 12V out of that....

until now i haven't manage to run a wire from the door to the footwell...

:(

any alternatives???

I haven't really read through this thing that carefully, but the safety light in the door is 12V, and while it's not constant it comes on when you unlock the car. The questions would be
1) would it work for what you need, since it "fades" in and takes about half a second to come up to a full 12V
2) would the motor draw too much current for the wiring

But I think it would be worth investigating.

This is actually a good point, i go ahead and check it...
This might be a possible solution to my problem...


Thanks

It works...
problem solved...

even the lock trigger works... i don't know why. i tested the 12V source, the moment you lock the door, the voltage drop down to zero, but the window still rolls up...

It's called a negative trigger. Extremely common.

i was thinking isn't the mirror 12+ too? I mean it always can be changed whether the car is on or not right? So there should be a 12+ going into the the 4 way switch for mirror.

The mirror is pre-wired for puddle lights too. Those come on when you unlock the doors with your keyfob.

The mirror is ACC, not constant

And having just added puddle lights, I can tell you that my non-Gt did not have the wiring for the lights in the mirrors. They may have been wired up to the connector on the door side, I didn't check and just tapped the wiring down by the light.

why did you decide to "test" in the rain? LOL

scribed I have electrician friends :suspect:

I live in tampa. Not really good with wiring on my car, nor do I want to learn. Is there anyone in this state that has done this with their cars already and want to earn some extra $$ doing it for me? I dont want my sunroof connected though. Just my 2 windows. Thanks

Woe Woe Woe

Crazy Side note...

Once you have it wired up Take lets say the Positive from the TR7 that can be on for 5 secs. and run that as well to the remote wire for your car radio...

Now When you put your windows down with the Key Fob you can here your tunes for the 5 seconds of it doing so....!!!
It will work...

But after you start your car that will be a live 12v wire...............hhhmmmmmmmm....

i just finished this mod on my 8, but ran into a problem. when i lock the door twice, the drivers side rolls up but the passenger side rolls up half way... whats up with that?
any help on that? after the first 2x lock presses, i press the lock 2 more times and the window goes up an inch.

Sounds like some resistance....maybe try increasing the resistence on the 530t?

Completed mine today works great. Although a few things, the windows go down a quarter of the way stop then continue going down.

2 other things,you say "For the Unlock TR-7 you are going to hook the - output (white) to the White/Orange of the 530t. " with the new 530T there is no orange/white but there is a red/white (I think, I am color blind- yes it makes wiring very interesting and a lot of trial and error.) And that wire does work.

secondly the last step was a little confusing. I had to look at the picture several times to figure it out. I couldn't figure out why you leave a wire cut with no connection, I kept trying to figure out where that wire went. and then you say "Now take the speaker wire from the door and you are going to tap the green side with the unlock and the yellow side with the lock." I couldn't figure out what green and yellow wires you were referring to. then I looked at the switch side.

All in all very good DIY, and more importantly WORKS! As for getting the wire through the door loom, seems that is actually a harness and no actual hole. I weaseled the harness out just enough to get the wire through a hole and got it into the car. The had to try and get the rubber around the harness again. that really is a PITA!!!!

In response to SSG, it looks like they changed the 530t. I just completed this mod and my 530t was like yours, it has a red/white wire instead of orange/white and it stops briefly about 2 inches down then continues all the way down. This is a "feature" listed on my instruction manual and is designed to be used with an after market alarm system remote.

Hey guys,

This is one of the first mods I'm doing on my car. I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here. So far I have the 530t installed and working properly, and both TR7s installed for my two door windows, just not for the sunroof yet. Now with my switchblade key, I can unlock it three times and the windows roll down as they should. However nothing happens when I lock it twice. In fact the door doesn't even lock...
And yet the doors lock when I plug the switch in, and I can lock them twice from the switch and both windows will roll up accordingly. It's just from my key, the doors do not even lock. Not a sound. I get the red light on my key, but that's it.

I'm totally lost and hoping somebody has a clue as to what this could be! I was hoping to finish this up tonight :(

Okay, scratch that. The door was open, which meant I couldn't lock it... Yikes!

Now if I could just feed that wire through...

i just read through this countless times and i ordered the modules but my biggest question would be how do i go about programming it in the car and what do you mean by pulsing the brown to negative? would i hook up power and ground then just touch the brown to the same ground wire multiple times?

You touch the exposed brown wire from the module to the power source, not ground. I used the a pin on one of the power connectors but, I can't remember off hand which one. Just carefully use the multi-meter to find one.

still not completely getting it haha kind of like this?
P power-------=---------power C
A brown-------|^touch........... A
C ground--------=-----ground R

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