DIY: Auto Up/Down Windows with Factory Key Fob
 

The idea behind this DIY is that I wanted to be able to roll up and down the windows from the factory key fob similar to VWs or BMWs. I was able to do this about 2 years ago now and never did a good DIY but I started a thread in the Interior, Audio and Electronics section that has just started to get some interest. So today I am going to write up my install complete with pictures.

First let's start with the components needed. You need to purchase 1 DEI 530t and 2 PAC Audio TR-7 (TR7 is the new name I believe). Much of my install was thanks to Lurch's DIY to install the 530t giving you Auto Up Down Windows. However I took it a step further by adding the ability to control the windows/Sunroof from outside the car. To do this I used the TR-7's to watch for door lock pulses. This way when you lock or unlock the car the TR-7's will read the number of pulses and then output a constant + and - signal. We use the - signal to the 530t and the + signal to the sunroof.

Here you can see the video of my car doing its magic. You can clearly see the 3x I press the Unlock for the Windows down. For the lock you can hear the horn honk and the windows moving at the same time 2x. One thing to note is that it does take a bit of delay between going from up to down. You can tell this because I pause after the windows go down before I attempt to roll them back up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hsSSFOFfPY


Ok to start follow Lurch's DIY to install the 530t. In picture 1 you can see the overall of the inside of my door. I placed the 530t in the same location as the DIY. However I did make 2 changes to his DIY. First I used a constant power source instead of the ACC like he does. For this I tapped the orange wire on the Bose connector as seen in picture 2. Second I used the setting for medium resistance on the 530t. It is On/Off/On/Off for DIP's 1-4. This is because my windows sometimes wouldn't go up completely in cold weather. And yes I do have my windows down because I smoke.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-auto-up-down-windows-86459/

http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/windowsmod.htm

A manual for the 530t

http://www.p71interceptor.com/window...s/dei530t.html

Here are the instructions to program the 2 TR-7's. I used the power supply to my cable modem to do the programming in the house instead of car, if you do this make sure you check the polarity first. You need to hook up the power and ground first before doing anything. Then you use the brown wire to "pulse" a negative input.

1. Switch programming switch to on and hook up power and ground.
2. Pulse Brown wire to - 15 times to indicate option 15. Unit will slow flash 15x.
3. Pulse Brown wire 2x to indicate 2 pulse input. Unit will flash 2x. (this will be 3 for the second Tr-7).
3. Pulse Brown one time after flash to continue to inputting time.
4. Unit will flash once very quickly. Ignore this one as it is for the minute place on the timer. X:xx
5. Unit will flash 2x quickly again you ignore this one as it is for the 10 sec place. x:Xx
6. Unit will flash 3x quickly for single secs. Now u will pulse the brown 5 times for 5 secs. x:xX
7. Unit will flash a bunch more times indicating programming is complete. Disconnect power and turn programming switch off.

You are now ready to test. If you hook up the power leads and pulse the brown to - you will see the light on the box come on for 5 secs and you should see a - and + signal on the outputs during that time.

TR-7 Instructions
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_010505.pdf

TR-7 Programming Flowchart
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...lletin_001.pdf

awesome, i have been wanting this feature

Ok now we are ready to install the 2 TR-7's. I used the velcro that Lurch recommends for the 530t and installed them in the little bump in below where the 530t is.

You need to hook up the red wires together and tap the 530t harness behind the fuse for more safety. Do the same for the black wires and tap the 530t harness anywhere.

Now to hook up the inputs to the two TR-7. Remember which one you programmed for 2 pulses will for now on be referred to as the Lock TR-7 and the one with 3 pulses will be the Unlock TR-7. For the Lock TR-7 you will tap the door lock connector's top wire which is Red/Blue. For the Unlock TR-7 tap the one right below that which should be Red/Black. If you are unsure of these take out your multimeter and lock/unlock the doors. You should see it jump to +12v momentarily. These taps will go the the green wires on the respective TR-7.

For the Unlock TR-7 you are going to hook the - output (white) to the White/Orange of the 530t. This will send the - output for 5 secs to the 530t when you press unlock 3x.

For the lock TR-7 you will hook up the - output (White) from the TR-7 to the orange wire for the 530t.

That is it if you just want the windows. Tape off the Orange and Brown wires from the TR-7's as they are unused. If you want to continue with the sunroof keep going.

You will hook up two blue wires to a wire to extend them through the door and up to the sunroof. I used an old 18 gauge (I think. Its small) speaker wire that has each side labeled. This is important so you know which side is which on the other end. You will need about 8ft of wire.

At one time I found a thread about how to add extra wires to through the door. But i can't find it now. Basically this involves punching out a hole that doesn't have wires in it in the door hinge and feeding your new wires through. Once you get it into the passenger compartment it is relatively easy to bring it up the A pillar and into the headliner.

To create enough room to run the wires in the headliner I removed the sun visor and clip (put a flat head into the slots on either side of the clip). The sunroof switches come down by removing the two screws in the sunglasses compartment and gently pulling down. There are some clips up there to hold it in so it might take a bit of force.

It will probably be easier if you remove the entire module from the car because we have a bunch of wiring to do.

This is out of my league, i think I will show this to an installer and see if they can do it.

Ok picking it back up. Thanks everyone for waiting until I finish the write up before responding.

Ok look up in the hole where you have removed the switches for the sunroof. You will see the motor connection there. Unclip it and bring it down. You will be tapping the green Constant + wire and extending it about 1ft. This is to add constant power to your switches.

Ok last step. I did this out of the car but didn't take it out for the pictures.

Clip both the blue and the black wires between the harness and the switch. On the switch side you are going to tie these together with a wire nut (or barrel).

Now take the speaker wire from the door and you are going to tap the green side with the unlock and the yellow side with the lock. You can see I clipped these and used a wire nut, but it would probably be better if you use just a normal tap.

The blue wire on the harness side is getting tied to the wire you extend from the Green on the sunroof motor. In my picture you can see this is a yellow wire.

That should be it. Now keep in mind I did this over 2 years ago so I might not have remembered every last detail. If you do it please let us all know how it goes and if I missed anything.

Check out the older thread from when I did the original install.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/auto-down-up-windows-factory-alarm-100712/

I plan on doing this in the hear future ill be sure to let you know if i run into any snags

Dude..... you rule. Plain and simple.

*Trys to dream up a way to get remote start with factory keyfob* :)

+1 on this being out of my league...

However i'm scribing for cliffnotes :)

This looks difficult yet easy at the same time. :lol: I plan on doing this late in the summer if I can get ahold of the parts.

could the tr7 be set up to close the windows on 3 clicks of the remote rather then 2? I would assume so but didn't bother reading the tr7 manual yet.

Yes. The TR7 is designed to do different things for different functions. The one you need for this application is to turn on an output for a programmed number of seconds when a pre-programmed number of triggers has happened. So in this case I set mine to accept 2 inputs for rollup and that is triggered by the lock pulse. You can just as easily set that to be 3 for lock and 3 for unlock. Although i do recommend the 2 for 2 reasons, first if you don't want to rollup the windows just lock once. Secondly it is kind of a PITA to push lock 3x, and if it is set to 2x when you hear the horn honk you know the windows are going up too without looking.

Great post! Works Flawlessly!.

Thanks,
Stericson

First I say get a multimeter out and start checking for voltages. The line you were supposed to tap at the sunroof motor is 12+ constant. To be honest I documented exactly how my sunroof is now, but I am not sure why I did it that way. I know there is another DIY here to turn you sunroof switches to always work. You might want to follow that one and just tap the wires from the doors up to the sunroof.

very nice. i see you have the switchblade key. will it work with the fob, the one where you don't have to stick anything in the ignition?

there's buttons on the outside of my doors to unlock/lock. i never take the key out of my wallet. if those buttons could work the windows and sunroof too, that would be cool.

i guess it's probably too much to ask for you to write a diy for that. i doubt it will be much different.

cool though.

Thanks Robb, shortly after postring that I got it figured out, my setup blew a fuse for some reason, replaced it and all is good.

You did an excellent job on this tutorial, I really appreciate your time and effort put into this for us. Maybe one day I can return the favor for you.

Also, to the previous post, I have the FOB with no key, 2004 model, and it worked flawlessly.
Stericson

Stericson,
Glad you figured it out and it works for you now. How do you like the mod? I think you are officially the second person to do this after 2+ years. Amazing that more people don't want to do this or maybe they dont' know about it.

Myriadshalaks,

The way this works is based on the lock signal. I don't know the exact operation of the keyless system, but if you have to hit the button on the door 2x for example to unlock all doors, then you could get this to work for you. My concern would be more for the lock side. Doesn't the system auto lock the doors as you move away from the car? In this case it would be just one pulse and I don't know if you would want the windows and sunroof to close every time you lock the drivers door. I never mentioned it here, but the way I have it wired up it works 100% of the time. So inside with the car running I can triple unlock or double lock and close or open all windows.

Wow you didn't buy a switchblade when they came out? they are so much better then the standard 04. I think it was way worth the 150 or so to get mine. If you can get a blank on ebay it might be cheaper. I bought the fob off of ebay and had to have a blank from the stealership.

I was told the switch blades where not compatible with an o4? Was/is this not true? I would love to consolidate my fob and key together.

Btw, The mod works great and its such a fun thing to show off, I get out of my car and people are like "hey you didnt close your win.....ohh, thats cool.." lol It's such a handy thing to have, one of my favorite mods.

More people may not have done it because of the work involved, took me a good 3-4 hours to do, but well worth it.

Stericson

how much did this cost?

I just did a quick search for the 3 components necessary. To do it like I have you need the DEI 530t for about $70 and 2 PAC TR-7's for about $20 each so that would be about $110 plus a little bit for taps and connectors.

Sounds about right... I did mine for a little under 100.00 Best mod I've ever done... :)

Stericson

where did u find the 530T and TR-7's? cause the cheapest i can find them is $126. and thats not including the little things needed. still worth it, but i wanna get the cost down as much as possible.

If you want I have a 530 that I could sell you. I had bought 2 thinking I needed it for sunroof and then didn't use it. Say $50 shipped. I live in Sweden now but don't worry Ill take care of shipping. Other then that check out ebay. There were some buy it nows with low prices.

what happens if you hold the unlock button??? will the windows roll down just a bit? just to vent? or does nothing happen? i have the same module for my supra but my remote is a viper. but i have the same 530t for the windows. when i hold the button the windows roll just a bit. let me know if you tried it? just wondering if its possible with the factory fob on my 8

Yes the 530T has that option but I couldn't figure out a good way to make it work. Because the way this works is the TR-7 is waiting for a pulse on the unlock circuit. When it gets the correct number of pulses it turns on its output for 5 secs which the 530t uses to roll down the windows. You would have to figure out a way to interupt that 5 sec output to use the vent option.

ahhh!! i see!!... how many seconds can the tr7 be setup??? 5-60 seconds or 1-10 sec? whats the range? thanks for your input... once i get to it, ill post my diy for automated headlights and remote start with the factory fob on the 8.

I just wanted to ask a quick question about this before I started this afternoon. Can you set up multiple pulse settings on the tr7? So for example, if I wanted to vent the car as mentioned above, could I set up say a 2 pulse for a partial rolldown unlock and a 3 pulse partial rolldown that only lasts for 1 sec to just vent the car. Or, do I need 2 more tr7s to achieve this? Thanks in advance for you advice and this awesome ass DIY!

got it done the other night. Wow, what a great mod. Thanks again for posting this up Robbz23.

Awesome. Any answers to your previous questions though?

any update on the question above?

From my conversations with Robbz, no. There would be too many pulses through the triggers to allow this to occur and work correctly. The windows will crack sometimes anyway just due to the way that the triggers work. If I can find a way around this, I will let you guys know.

Thanks for the info...

Also, I installed mine today and i never got it working...
My 2004 Rx8 doesn't have BOSE connector, so i cannot tapped the orange wire on the Bose connector, that's why i tried to use Chuck Wrzesniewski DIY for the red wire.

https://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4373/idonthave.jpg

everything else was exactly the same...

Does tapping the red wire of 530T to the constant power source is a must?
I assume this i my problem.

I notice it, because for the power window harness to function, the key should be in on position.
And sometimes, after i pullout my key on the ignition (with my windows rolled down) after pressing lock button on my FOB twice, the window will roll-up, and i see that my lock Tr7 led lights up. ( stored power...maybe?)

But after this single operation, it will back to no function at all...

I also tried the unlock Tr7, by:
1.turn the key to on position,
2.roll up the windows,
3.lock the car using the power window switch,
4.then turn the key to off position,
5.take out the keys,
6.lock the car using FOB (i see the lock tr7 led lights up)
7.press the FOB 3X

all i see is the unlock Tr7 LED lights up, the windows didn't roll down


So i assume that the wiring and programing is correct since the LED of the Tr7 lights up when they are triggered accordingly ... Please correctly me if im wrong...

Please Help...
Any inputs will be very much appreciated...

Regards,
Chris

Yes when the inputs are triggered on the Tr-7 the will light up. Yes they need constant power in order to always be in a waiting state. I cant be sure but it sounds like you might have tapped a power that is active until you open the doors. With the car running try hitting the door lock switch in the car. if this works then you need to find a better power source.

I think that with some fancy wiring and a 3rd TR-7 you might be able to get the vent function working. This is what I am thinking. Instead of wiring the unlock tr-7 to constant+ you wire it to the third TR-7 that is supplying constant + except when triggered with 4 unlocks. So when you hit the 3rd unlock the windows would start, but would be interupted when the 3rd Tr-7 activates on the 4th unlock.

Also I might change my design a bit now if I was to do it again. That would be to add a relay that cuts the power to the TR-7's when acc power is on. This would prevent someone from using the lock switches inside the car to open the windows, when the car is running.

oh and the Tr-7's can be set up for any time up to 99 minutes. I am not positive on this but I am pretty sure.

^thank you for your response.

I think on your DIY, all the components, 2 TR7 & the 530T is connected to the constant power of Bose connector. this is what i'm trying to achieve now.

I will try to stick to your current DIY, I'll get this one working first.

Any idea where i can get a constant power source without the BOSE connector?

Regards,
Chris

confirmed...

with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.


now my problem... where can i get a constant power for the 2 TR7 & the 530T without the BOSE connector?

please help...

anyone?

See my video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=848Kc5RQxAA

with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.
when i take out the key, it accepts two/three commands from the switch and FOB. you can see that the window stopped halfway when i press the unlock button on the FOB (third command after i take out the key), after that, no more...


Also see this picture; i don't have BOSE to connect with:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/9536/nobose.th.jpg

This is my driver side door, messy as of the moment, i wont put back the door panel until i fixed this...

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9672/triohj.th.jpg


What im planning to do is run a single wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well, in that case, possible i can find a constant power source for the 2 TR7 & the 530T. I tried already, but i think it will be a PIA to get it done, ill research further for this...


http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6123/wireplan.th.jpg


Anyone has better solution?
Might save me a headache...


Regards,
Chris

I couldn't tell you without opening the door and looking. Get out your handy dandy multimeter and start testing things is my only suggestion. I am pretty sure that there is another constant + in the door but I don't know where. If you don't have a multimeter go out and spend $15 on a cheapo one, it is really worth it.

I tested all the wires on the drivers side door.
Check the pictures...

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7741/tweeter.jpg
^
even though i know that this speaker don't need a power source, i tested it anyway to make sure... nothing though...

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7251/mirroe.jpg
^
wires for the mirror, nothing here...

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/4243/locku.jpg
^
this one has only constant 4V

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6836/imore.jpg
^
one of the connectors the goes to the door panel. nothing...

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7...tchharness.jpg
^
and this two has 12V if the key is switch to ON position, the big one also has constant 4V.


to cut the story short, i didn't find any constant 12V.


I have to research about running a wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well now...
I never thought this will be a total PIA, but for sure this will be worth it...


Regards,
Chris

Running wire through the door is a total PITA. I ended up taking the doors completely off to get my 14ga speaker wire through the connector.

Sad to hear that there is no 12v constant without the bose. I was thinking about trying this, but I don't think I have enough room to run any more wire through that connector.