1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by AJRx892
(Post 3139144)
sorry left off that i was wondering if the autoexe strut has space for edfc
Attachment 277102 |
thanks
appreciate the help! |
nice rims bro
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Originally Posted by AJRx892
(Post 3139144)
sorry left off that i was wondering if the autoexe strut has space for edfc
i dont track i just figured theyd go with new coilovers to stiffen the suspension once i invest in those ^^ i know what they do i figured a simple question would be easier to answer so best street strut bar with space for edfc obviously best is with the most contact points making the suspension the most rigid but isnt 6 points over kill if im not tracking? what would be best for my application sorry last night i was overly tired and not showing my knowledge by a specific question you still dont know what you're talking about. best for your application? only you can answer that question. so search, yeah ... search. then decided what you need on YOUR own. |
i meant a professionally made strut bar with more contact points would logically provide more rigidity
as in the difference between 2 point 4 point 6 point way to take things literal why would i ask for a members opinion if i knew everything? |
"best" is a relative term....
Originally Posted by AJRx892
(Post 3139593)
i meant a professionally made strut bar with more contact points would logically provide more rigidity
as in the difference between 2 point 4 point 6 point way to take things literal why would i ask for a members opinion if i knew everything? The autoexe 4-point front brace looks to be the most rigid brace available since it ties the tops of the front struts and the spaceframe together with the additional attach points close to the base of the "A" pillar which should be a local hardpoint as opposed to other models which tie to the middle of the firewall (which seems to be less rigid on this car based on various experiences with master cylinder deflections). This will reduce the possibility for side-to-side deflection of the wheels relative to the body under hard cornering which 2-point bars might still allow because there's no triangulation of the front suspension (no idea if this is an actual problem on this chassis when using a 2-point bar). If all you care about is rigidity, then I'd say this one is the "best" (keep in mind that this rigidity may incerease noise and decrease ride comfort for a street car), but there may be other considerations depending what you're trying to get your car to do. The autoexe bar is almost certainly heavier than carbon or aluminum 2-point bars, and can complicate certain maintainence procedures as it will need to be removed to get the filter out of a Rev-i airbox if you have one or to get at most of the ingition system which is under the hose connecting the airbox to the throttle body (a 2-point bar can be moved out of the way with removal of a single nut/bolt which is much simpler). If any of that is an issue for you, you'll need to weigh that against the possible difference in rigidty (and how significant that difference might be to the handling characteristics you're looking to get). I've always liked this autoexe bar, and wanted one a few years back (didn't have the money to justify a purchase at the time), but have since decided to go with the MS 2-point bar on my car due to the maintainence/access issues since I do have the Rev-i airbox and like to do my own work as often as possible (can't comment on the difference in handling yet, my brace gets delivered tomorrow and will go on the car over the long weekend). The rear brace in the autoexe set was the main thing I always wanted the set for (haven't seen anyone willing to sell that separately), but gtspec has one coming out later this year that looks similar for rigidity, now I'm trying to figure out if having my back end that rigid fits with the handling I'm trying to achieve (I'm looking for a little bit of oversteer, maybe true neutral without power oversteer and I'm trying to figure if the back end being that locked in might give me a little understeer instead). I do need at least a 2-point brace on the top of my rear struts though, since I'm oversteering more than I want under power on my current configuration. |
I didn't have a problem w/the RB intake with the 4pt autoexe front brace.
The best base to adjust handling from is a chassis that is a single inflexible structure that has no flex. Then adjustments and modifications have effects that are both predictable and stay that way under load and stress condition. Trying to predict/adjust handling to some goal based on the 'flex' or 'lack of stiffness' of a chassis is not the way to 'tune' your car. Get it stiff as possible, then make it what you want with sway bars, coilovers, weighting, wheels and tires. |
im not going to track it
and looking back on that i admit it was pretty stupid to use the term in that way i guess i meant best as in most rigid yet thats not what i want i dont know what best for me is yet but ive been reading alot on here everyday wow that argument looks really stupid now oh well i apologize for being a noob and posting in the wrong thread learned the hard way |
Originally Posted by Spin9k
(Post 3201860)
I didn't have a problem w/the RB intake with the 4pt autoexe front brace.
The best base to adjust handling from is a chassis that is a single inflexible structure that has no flex. Then adjustments and modifications have effects that are both predictable and stay that way under load and stress condition. Trying to predict/adjust handling to some goal based on the 'flex' or 'lack of stiffness' of a chassis is not the way to 'tune' your car. Get it stiff as possible, then make it what you want with sway bars, coilovers, weighting, wheels and tires. For me, the car is my daily driver and certain mods are too impractical (such as an FI kit which would make the car impossible to smog in CA without a remove/reinstall for the inspection) to be worthwhile for my purpose regardless of how they affect performace; similarly some of the underbody braces aren't appropriate for me since I already scrape a bit going in/out of my parking garage with just the 1/2" drop from the RB springs, then there's the issue of cost vs. incremental benefit over stock config (which is different for nearly everyone for any number of reasons). If I were going to track the car frequently (or had a towing rig and could retire it to exclusively be a track car), then obviously some of these factors would change. Interesting to hear that the autoexe brace doesn't interfere with servicing the RB intake (getting the filter in/out). I ended up needing to remove the stock bar last time I recharged my filter, and the cross member looks in photos to be in the same spot. Maybe I just jumped to removing the bar too quickly. |
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