ThomasThicc

I am getting my clutch replaced. I've lost all pressure in my clutch pedal. A mecahnic bled it for me after i tried, and it worked for about 2 weeks until it lost nearly all pressure again. 90% of the travel is 0 resistance that sticks at the top of the 10% that does work. can shift into gears and drive, but barely; not good for the synchros. There is a leak somewhere. Replaced the Master, slave, and the line connecting the two already. Clutch is worn anyway, so I'm taking it to a mechanic and having all the work done. Should I get the OEM Exedy clutch or should I might as well get the Stage 2 Exedy Racing Heavy Duty Clutch? The Stage 2 Heavy Duty is $10 cheaper, so I might as well, no? is there any reason not to get the Stage 2 Heavy Duty over the OEM? I know the pedal is going to be harder to push but I'm a big boy, I can do it. Drove a bucket truck once, **that's** a heavy clutch lol. i have the stock flywheel, to my knowledge. (bought the car used) The Stage 2 Heavy Duty should last longer than the stock OEM Clutch, right? How's the drivability on the street over the OEM clutch. Just so you know my driving style: I'm not a manual master, and my clutch work isn't always perfect, but I'm not really a novice. I revmatch <--- (almost always accurately) and double clutch. It's my daily that I sometimes drive hard. Yknow, just rip it through first and second every once in a while, carve backroads from time to time.

Here's the links (Mazdatrix):
Exedy Clutch Kit Stage 1: https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/cl...e-1-04-08-rx8/
Exedy Clutch kit Stage 2: https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/cl...-86-92-tb-rx8/
Exedy OEM Street Clutch Kit: https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/clutch-kit-04-08-rx8/
Exedy Clutch kit Stage 1 Heavy Duty: https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/cl...-92-tb-rx8-hd/
Exedy Clutch Kit Stage 2 Heavy Duty: https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/cl...-92-tb-rx8-hd/

P.S. Sorry if not in the correct section, please tell me which one if not this one.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

well first, this subject has been discussed into the ground in past threads and is not worthy of being started anew. Please search and read first next time. Not trying to beat you up because that’s what newbs do, but now you know and don’t have any excuse going forward.

Because if you had done that then you’d have seen it pointed out numerous times over the last 15+ years that unless you have a serious power adder like forced induction then anything more than an OE or OE replacement clutch is a complete waste of money and no benefit. I raced on the recommended clutch including 100s of high rpm drag launches without issue. Unless you intend to be stupid like slip it continuously for who knows what reason, then this engine in NA form simply doesn’t generate enough torque to stress a 225mm clutch. Only about 190 ft-lbs at the flywheel on the best pro built motors, which means you likely won’t see that ever.

ThomasThicc

Well, I know it's been. I did search and read, and I found that you might as well get the OEM instead of paying more. I asked this because I couldn't find if a the Stage 2 HD would last longer. "I raced on the recommended clutch including 100s of high rpm drag launches without issue." Which Clutch would that be? I want to know if the Stage 2 HD Clutch would last me longer than the OEM clutch, especially since it's $10 cheaper, so it wouldn't be a waste of money in this case. Would it be harder to use the Stage 2 HD Clutch, other than it maybe being harder to depress the clutch pedal?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

the clutch I said to use; OE or OE replacement, which both are made by Exedy

all that Stage mumbo jumbo is just clickbait grab for your cash

ThomasThicc

Well, I've just read around a lot more. I see a lot of people having issues with the Stage 1 Exedy Clutches disintegrating, and Stage 2s breaking transmissions and other internals. Meanwhile, everyone that just got an OEM or got an OEM after their Stage X was happy. My transmission already has some weaknesses (4th gear grind at high RPM and 2nd is surely damaged when someone lost the clutch while driving it, and tried jamming it into second at ~4k RPM, making a terrible grinding noise 3 times). I'm just going to go with the Exedy OEM street clutch (https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/clutch-kit-04-08-rx8/ ) Better safe than sorry. Thanks for the help, guess I should've looked 'round a bit more originally. When the car had a working clutch pedal, it was always hard coming out of first and into second at high RPM (>8.5k - redline [9.5k], getting exponentially harder). Hopefully a fresh clutch and system will help with that.

P.S. I hear/see you're popular 'round the Rx8club kappa

ThomasThicc

Also just read the "Why are we so hard / harsh on newbies?" sub-section. I would like to apologize.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you don’t have to apologize, we all understand, there will be many more guppies after you doing a lot worse

I have no idea what that is, but I’m sure it’s not a positive thing

ThomasThicc

Ah, well thanks for the... encouragement (' )__ (' ) My IQ score is as your PFP states

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

well you’re already way ahead of the curve than most, we’ll do our best to help

ps: looked it up, bullseye


.

strokercharged95gt

I think I have a stage 1 or 1+ Exedy factory clutch without TOB or pilot bearing. It has less than 500 miles on it I believe.

If you want to pay shipping, I send it to you for free (if I can find it).

ThomasThicc

Looked what up? My IQ or the exploding clutches

ThomasThicc

Thank you for the offer, but I already ordered the OEM street clutch. Plus, not really in a position to just drop the tranny again if your clutch nuked inside my tranny, and then by a clutch. Don't have the tools to do that work myself, it would be a shop doing it. Thank you again, maybe someone else in a more appropriate situation could take it off your hands.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

nope, RX8Club kappa

SmuttyHutty

Whilst the clutch topic has indeed been battered to death (on life support at least) I've just had the clutch replaced on my 2004 RX8 192. It has 66,000 miles on the clock and was pretty well original apart from some upgraded plugs, leads and coils. I've popped a new starter motor on it (2kw) and a stainless steel exhaust, plus I have changed the differential oil and gearbox oil (not with the same oil, I hasten to add).

The clutch, from day one, has been very heavy. No slipping but very heavy. So as a preventative measure I have had the clutch replaced. I avoided ebay (too many fakes) and spent some time shopping around and picked up an Exedy clutch for £260 including delivery. I had to order the pilot bearing from Germany (£35) and had my local garage fit it and replace the oil and filter for me because I have just covered 3000 miles since the last change. Total bill from the garage was £270.

And the car feels fantastic! The clutch pedal is light but has an early bite point. It is smooth. And the mechanic told me that the old clutch was the original and was close to the rivets.

So, if anyone is in two minds about getting a new clutch, all I can say is go for it. I now have a new car!

pfknrx8

10803AHD I have been using this set up for nearly 3 years with a FidanZA FLYWHEEL Complaints so ever still firm and steady clutch bearing was replaced last year but everything else even the clutch disc and pilot bearing flawless and awesome feeling , yes the pedal feels harder than stock but it’s a great upgrade , downside is driving thru traffic and stops lights too lol but still going nearly 20k miles