Is there a better 2 cycle oil that you don't have to order? - Page 2 - RX8Club.com



Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications Discussion of power adding modifications
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:43 AM   #26
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Yeah the Academy near me stocks a few, I use the fully synthetic Mystic.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #27
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Home Depot sells small quantities of JASO FC and higher in a pinch. Depending on where you live, Husquvarna or Echo are FD rated and in one store in NC, they had a store brand that I don't see in OH.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:40 PM   #28
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as SD above said, Citgo is a Venezuelan conglomerate. Lucas semi-synthetic 2-cycle is your better 'Merican counterpart. for a few dollars more it is made in USA and they test to but did not receive a JASO certification. I've been running Lucas in my 8 b/c it is available at Amazon for a fair price. But I couldn't pass up the $16.99 deal at Menards.
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:56 PM   #29
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Why would 'made in the USA' make it 'better'?
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:08 PM   #30
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In each ounce of oil, they mix 2% freedom and 1% liquified bald eagle. It's a game changer.
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:08 PM   #31
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It's usually the opposite for most things. But I think they are choosing Murica based on principal, not product quality.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:31 PM   #32
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Why would 'made in the USA' make it 'better'?
It's not about that for me. Every $ that goes into Maduro's pocket via his State-owned oil conglomerate is another $ he can use to oppress his people. I'd rather support Lucas or Amsoil, which have no such entanglements.
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:52 PM   #33
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What about the dinosaurs that were oppressed by the environment that died in order for us to have the crude oil we all liberally drink like fish today?
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:51 PM   #34
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Wait...I'm killing dinosaurs? ****...
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:20 AM   #35
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The dinosaurs are dead and gone. The best thing we can do for them is to raise a quart of Castrol to them, and selfishly burn their oily residues in our individual pursuits of rotary greatness.
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:10 AM   #36
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what about this stuff? less than a dollar for 8oz
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:37 AM   #37
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well I was using yamalube till I had ran out, I started using Itasca last 1100 miles at a 112x1 ratio. Smelling just like my chainsaw upon startup is probably only downfall I notice. I also use 10w40 engine oil sold and labeled as diesel truck oil; for the additive package it includes. e.g zddp.
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:31 PM   #38
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what about this stuff? less than a dollar for 8oz
A quick google reveals that this stuff is not recommended for TCW3 duty and is rated JASO FB, so round here it's not recommended. You're saving a few bucks now at the cost of catalytic converter/engine in future.

The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:19 PM   #39
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A quick google reveals that this stuff is not recommended for TCW3 duty and is rated JASO FB, so round here it's not recommended. You're saving a few bucks now at the cost of catalytic converter/engine in future.

The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
Race car no cat, motor revs smoother than with just high octane alone maybe it is bad though I wouldn't doubt it. The smell is relevant to any premixed car with out a cat.

If I knew which deposits we didn't want for the rotary motor I could send some oil off to blackstone labs after another 2k of driving and compare the results to a voa and after another 3k of driving with out premix and compare that to the above 2.
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Old 06-21-2017, 04:28 PM   #40
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some day a PhD will be earned regarding the relationship between oil discussions and **** retentiveness ...
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Old 06-21-2017, 05:15 PM   #41
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Race car no cat, motor revs smoother than with just high octane alone maybe it is bad though I wouldn't doubt it. The smell is relevant to any premixed car with out a cat.

If I knew which deposits we didn't want for the rotary motor I could send some oil off to blackstone labs after another 2k of driving and compare the results to a voa and after another 3k of driving with out premix and compare that to the above 2.
Well, all deposits are bad, so you don't want any of them. But, what do you expect an engine oil analysis to tell you about your choice of premix? It's not like premix flows back into the oil pan.
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Old 06-21-2017, 05:56 PM   #42
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Well, all deposits are bad, so you don't want any of them. But, what do you expect an engine oil analysis to tell you about your choice of premix? It's not like premix flows back into the oil pan.
It'll tell you what's being left on the surfaces that accumulate back into the oil. And some deposits are good prevent metal decomposition or annealing.
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Old 06-21-2017, 06:02 PM   #43
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Additives are deposits that are good
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:18 PM   #44
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Yet, we find larger and larger stores of crude oil all over the world.
Biomass of all kinds contribute to the world's crude stocks continually.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I have 3.7 tanks of 93 that need to be burned at the track this weekend (along with a quart of Mobil 1 and 29.6 Oz of Lucas premix).
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Old 06-22-2017, 07:34 PM   #45
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I run Motul 710 2T. Its good for cruising and getting on it with no spooge characteristics like some of the other higher temp oils specifically made for racing.

Amazon Amazon

I got lucky and bought 13 gallons at $25/gallon for both rotaries I own. It can be pre-mixed or injected which I do both of.
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Old 06-22-2017, 11:09 PM   #46
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Additives are deposits that are good
Additives in the types of 2-stroke applicable to a rotary are detergents to remove soluble deposits (not just of oil, of gasoline byproducts also). That's what JASO FC/FD is: JASO FB levels of lubrication with more detergents / less deposit formation.

I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.

Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:42 AM   #47
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Additives in the types of 2-stroke applicable to a rotary are detergents to remove soluble deposits (not just of oil, of gasoline byproducts also). That's what JASO FC/FD is: JASO FB levels of lubrication with more detergents / less deposit formation.

I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.

Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
we are a little away from what I had meant. I'm using diesel engine oil for the additives you are mentioning that are not in 2 cycle. However if the 2 cycle oil was leaving any parts per million that I didn't want in the oil or motor surfaces I would be able to see some of this in the oil analysis.
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:19 PM   #48
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The only issue with running Diesel oil is that DO has far higher ZDDP (zinc) levels and will decrease the longevity of your cat. If you're without a cat converter, all the better for reduced wear on HP parts.

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Old 07-01-2017, 02:36 AM   #49
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What about the dinosaurs that were oppressed by the environment that died in order for us to have the crude oil we all liberally drink like fish today?

Oil and gas are more like the microscopic animals dead on seabed from 250million years ago, not the 65 million years ago dinos although they might have contributed.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:36 AM   #50
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We're really into an intelligent discussion now, whoo boy ...,
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