Is there a better 2 cycle oil that you don't have to order?
06-19-2017, 12:38 PM
#27
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Home Depot sells small quantities of JASO FC and higher in a pinch. Depending on where you live, Husquvarna or Echo are FD rated and in one store in NC, they had a store brand that I don't see in OH.
06-19-2017, 12:40 PM
#28
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as SD above said, Citgo is a Venezuelan conglomerate. Lucas semi-synthetic 2-cycle is your better 'Merican counterpart. for a few dollars more it is made in USA and they test to but did not receive a JASO certification. I've been running Lucas in my 8 b/c it is available at Amazon for a fair price. But I couldn't pass up the $16.99 deal at Menards.
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Supra1jz (06-21-2017)
06-20-2017, 01:52 PM
#33
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What about the dinosaurs that were oppressed by the environment that died in order for us to have the crude oil we all liberally drink like fish today?
06-21-2017, 07:20 AM
#35
Water Foul
The dinosaurs are dead and gone. The best thing we can do for them is to raise a quart of Castrol to them, and selfishly burn their oily residues in our individual pursuits of rotary greatness.
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Reoze (06-21-2017)
06-21-2017, 09:37 AM
#37
well I was using yamalube till I had ran out, I started using Itasca last 1100 miles at a 112x1 ratio. Smelling just like my chainsaw upon startup is probably only downfall I notice. I also use 10w40 engine oil sold and labeled as diesel truck oil; for the additive package it includes. e.g zddp.
06-21-2017, 11:31 AM
#38
A quick google reveals that this stuff is not recommended for TCW3 duty and is rated JASO FB, so round here it's not recommended. You're saving a few bucks now at the cost of catalytic converter/engine in future.
The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
06-21-2017, 02:19 PM
#39
A quick google reveals that this stuff is not recommended for TCW3 duty and is rated JASO FB, so round here it's not recommended. You're saving a few bucks now at the cost of catalytic converter/engine in future.
The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
The fact that it smells + the ratings should be telling you that it's not burning down to carbon dioxide and water, which means your catalytic converter is seeing compounds it's not prepared to deal with,which overtime may cause it to clog.
If I knew which deposits we didn't want for the rotary motor I could send some oil off to blackstone labs after another 2k of driving and compare the results to a voa and after another 3k of driving with out premix and compare that to the above 2.
06-21-2017, 04:15 PM
#41
Race car no cat, motor revs smoother than with just high octane alone maybe it is bad though I wouldn't doubt it. The smell is relevant to any premixed car with out a cat.
If I knew which deposits we didn't want for the rotary motor I could send some oil off to blackstone labs after another 2k of driving and compare the results to a voa and after another 3k of driving with out premix and compare that to the above 2.
If I knew which deposits we didn't want for the rotary motor I could send some oil off to blackstone labs after another 2k of driving and compare the results to a voa and after another 3k of driving with out premix and compare that to the above 2.
06-21-2017, 04:56 PM
#42
It'll tell you what's being left on the surfaces that accumulate back into the oil. And some deposits are good prevent metal decomposition or annealing.
06-22-2017, 12:18 PM
#44
Water Foul
Now, if you'll excuse me, I have 3.7 tanks of 93 that need to be burned at the track this weekend (along with a quart of Mobil 1 and 29.6 Oz of Lucas premix).
06-22-2017, 06:34 PM
#45
I run Motul 710 2T. Its good for cruising and getting on it with no spooge characteristics like some of the other higher temp oils specifically made for racing.
I got lucky and bought 13 gallons at $25/gallon for both rotaries I own. It can be pre-mixed or injected which I do both of.
I got lucky and bought 13 gallons at $25/gallon for both rotaries I own. It can be pre-mixed or injected which I do both of.
06-22-2017, 10:09 PM
#46
Additives in the types of 2-stroke applicable to a rotary are detergents to remove soluble deposits (not just of oil, of gasoline byproducts also). That's what JASO FC/FD is: JASO FB levels of lubrication with more detergents / less deposit formation.
I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.
Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.
Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
06-23-2017, 08:42 AM
#47
Additives in the types of 2-stroke applicable to a rotary are detergents to remove soluble deposits (not just of oil, of gasoline byproducts also). That's what JASO FC/FD is: JASO FB levels of lubrication with more detergents / less deposit formation.
I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.
Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
I think you're thinking of ZDDP or molybdenum disulphide but those don't exist in 2-stroke oil. We're not talking about dry-lubricating high pressure bearings here.
Unless that chainsaw oil has some certification labels, nobody knows what's in it or how it behaves. Given the price, I'm willing to bet it's just coloured dinosaur extract.
06-25-2017, 09:19 PM
#48
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The only issue with running Diesel oil is that DO has far higher ZDDP (zinc) levels and will decrease the longevity of your cat. If you're without a cat converter, all the better for reduced wear on HP parts.
Ed
Ed
07-01-2017, 01:36 AM
#49
Oil and gas are more like the microscopic animals dead on seabed from 250million years ago, not the 65 million years ago dinos although they might have contributed.
