Both of those only read from Bank 2 correct?

I was playing with the O2 sensor data today, and I also was getting strange readings in the area of 11-76. Curious if Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the correct input for O2, and how to interpret the reading.

 

AH... i remember someone talking about the vid now although i cant view it from a .mil computer here..... i'll check it later at home

well... OEM sensors - cat = EGT??? lol

would be super if anyone who understands the dirty secrets of the CANscan could help us out with how to poll the CAN for the rest of this data.....

i have a headache right now, but it seems i was thinking a few days ago that there should be a lot more possibly interesting things on the CAN

 

I used the CANxx short term fuel trim bank 1 and long term fuel trim bank 1. I didn't connect the AP to verify the numbers are the same, but they looked about right to me.

 

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank1 07E00106 044105060000 2808 00C80100FF9C SF1

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank1 07E00107 044105070000 2808 00C80100FF9C LF1

 

Ok thanks.

I must have entered something incorrectly earlier.

 

I have the gauge setup and I've had it for a little while now. Unfortunately we can't use the MTH function to scale the 0-99 reading to a usable value since the output of the WBO2 sensor is non linear, so there's no way to scale it properly with addition, multiplication and division alone

I have seen values anywhere from 20 to 80, and sometimes it will actually sit at 50 like a good little stoich mixture.. But yeah I have no clue how to actually interpret the reading..

Wow that's a nice interface, and a pretty good refresh rate.. Sometimes I wish the scangauge was a little quicker. If we could find out how to get the cat temp that would be sweet too! Save me from getting an EGT gauge...

 

Drivers left knee.


S

 

ah, i didnt even think about the non-linear thing... well... it would still be nice to have an idea what 0-99 values equate to in AFR or lambda....

 

on a positive note... the HP gauge is whack like mysql said... yesterday at full load at 7000rpm i saw 291HP !! lol

also LT/STFT work it seems... STFT isfloating around -2/-3 LTFT around 6/7... only got a couple miles to look at it though

 

So what are most of you using for your guage settings. In other words, you have 4 things to show, what are you watching?? And why?

 

right now, I have ltft and stft on the left, and on the right i have coolant temp and intake temp.

 

i have LTFT, STFT, Water Temp, and O2 sensor

watching the fuel trims to try and become familiar with how they change in correlation to driving style/conditions

watching water temps for obvious reasons, and because i disconnected that damn low coolant light switch

watching the O2 sensor trying to make heads or tails of it... this is what i see so far

decelration/injector cut-off conditions - values all the way down to 0 consistently
hard acceleration - values ranging from 50-upper 80's
cruising - values typically around 75-85

MYSQL - i wonder if someone* who is familiar with the PCM/CAN would be able to assist us with the reference points to poll the CAN for that Cat temp sensor???

***Hymee? i dont know of anyone else off the top o' the head

 

hey be careful about that coolant, I hope you're checking the level frequently - if the level gets too low the temp sensor won't be accurate (doesnt' it have to be submerged to work...?)

 

OK, I "Get" watching the fuel trims to get an early heads up on engine issues and maybe adjust driving habits for better fuel consumption. But what advantage, in every day driving (not racing), does watching the O2 sensor have? Sorry if that sounds stupid.

-Gator

 

i check my coolant frequently anyway, so i didnt care.... besides the low coolant lamp was nearly constantly on for me. and after paying attention here for a while decided that it wasnt worth the trouble to replace the whole resevoir when it will just die again eventually.

if we can learn to make heads/tails out of the data the O2 sensor returns, we can correlate that to AFR's at least approximately... mostly just curiosity

**********************************
MYSQL...
also, i'm going to japan for a couple weeks, when i get back i am going to look seriously into the Cat temp sensor as well as some other things..... someone here was kind enough to enlighten me on what direction to proceed with retreiving other various data that is on the CAN

 

My 4 are generally intake air temp, water temp, MPG, and engine load. I was hoping the codes to do AT fluid temperature would come out, but I don't think it will. At least not until after I have a gauge installed

My HP readings are actually not too far off. They explained to me in an email that the scangauge shows you gross HP, not brake HP. Gross HP is the figure before you subtract driving accesories, etc. He said that ghp is typically 25 percent higher than brake horsepower (bhp is the rating the manufacturer gives). So if you take 75 percent of your 291 hp reading, you actually get a reasonable number.

That said, I have heard of some people seeing really unrealistic HP numbers. But mine have always been in the realm of possibility.

 

I've got Water Temp, Vlt, MPG, LOD

 

i cant promise anything.... but per my previous post, if you want this, it's one i will work for when i return from japan.

i do not even know if that data is floating around in our CAN, but if it is, i may find it. Of course, you or other will have to test my findings, as i dont know anyone with an AT.

 

i'm pretty sure that HP rating is just a guesstimate from the fuel rate (ganged) & rpm's.

i'm surprised I actually felt the need to say that, it should be obivous since the scangauge only considers so many parameters (that the can bus makes available).

2 cents

 

I'm running coolant temp, Average fuel consumption, RPM and instantaneous mileage.
When I'm low on fuel I'll run distance till empty.

 

Why run RPM when you have the tachometer?

 

By the way, I found out through SGII that my tacho is off about 150 RPM. Can anyone else confirm that?

 

Yes the tach is off, especially at the top end (9000 RPM will show up as 9500). I thought everyone knew this by now ;-)

 

If you want to set up a cruise speed just below the RPMs where the secondary injectors turn on it helps to have an accurate indication.
My Tach reads 150 to 200 RPM high @ 3600 RPM.

 

Don't secondary injectors turn on only under WOT or a good amount of throttle?