I heard that the Rev8 is not much louder than the stock system. I have a mazsport midpipe on my car into a Greddy SE catback. love it.

 

That's what I read pretty much everywhere as well, which is really all I'm looking for. I don't want it to be much louder, just deeper and hear a little more than the engine noise itself.

 

Protek-R premix and 'The Perfect Beaker' for precise measurement and anti-spill capabilities:

 

Small updates today. Apologies for the picture quality, or lack thereof.

OEM cargo net to keep my oil, premix, cleaning products, etc. from flying around my trunk.


Air pump delete.

Yes, I'm aware that the cover plate is intended to mount on the exhaust manifold, but I didn't want to break the rusty studs off and be in a bad situation. When I buy a header sometime down the road I will remove the tube and install the plate as designed.

 

So. I've neglected to log a few of my updates from last summer/fall, but as my stockpile of parts accrued over this winter continues to grow in anticipation of warm weather and bringing my 8 out of the garage again, I decided I'd better catch up.

Racing Beat Rev8 Catback:




Cut out the simulated mesh sections of the rear bumper to show off the sexy mufflers, and painted the faded shrouds and lower section in high heat matte black:

 

Also Plasti-Dipped the emblems black to complete the dark and sleek theme (no pictures yet).

Addition of the best dash buddy on the market:

 

the car is coming along very nicely man!

 

Teaser of projects in the brew:

 

Installed my Racing Beat header and RX8 Performance engine mounts yesterday.

The operating room:

 

Comparison of the header vs. OE manifold and the aluminum/polyurethane mounts vs. OE stamped steel/rubber mounts:


RB's impeccable R&D and attention to detail are evident even inside the collector:

 

Install area, less OE manifold and mount:

 

Header and new mount installed:

 

And the full Racing Beat system is complete:

 

Very nice man! Looking sexy as ever

 

So. The old boy won round one of attempting to install a Deatschwerks DW200(255LPH) fuel pump. I bought a lock ring removal tool and broke the lock tabs off the tank, as many suggested. Ratchet on the tool; no go. Breaker bar on the tool; no go. Hammer and flat screwdriver; broken tabs(knew it before attempting).

Breaker bar + pipe for more leverage =


In case anyone is unaware, this lock ring is a $50 piece of plastic. Why? Because it can be. If you need it, you'll buy it. If you don't, it's not something you'd ever think of replacing, much less paying as much for it.

 

Disassembled pump assembly and comparison of DW and OE pumps:


Like the Walbro kits, Deatschwerks are universal kits that drop into our assembly without any modification. Kit includes a universal filter sock that cannot be used for our application(note the difference in locating pin orientation, let alone the special shape to fit the bowl). And for whatever pain-in-the-*** reason, a new OE filter sock cannot be obtained unless you buy a whole new assembly. Thus the only feasible option is to clean that NASTY thing you found attached to the OE setup.

My choice of the DW pump over Walbro is due to the loads of negative things I've heard and read over the last several years across the general automotive spectrum. The cheapest I found it available was from Black Halo Racing due to their included shipping, and this being my second order from them, I will again say that I very much recommend them and will definitely do business again.

Additional note:
Don't forget to melt the pop off cap onto the siphon as it cannot hold under the addition pressure of the high-flow pump.

 

Def looking forward to updates. I've been looking into getting a DW over a Walboro. And also do you have a pic of the pop off cap that needs to be melted onto the siphon?

 

For $10 more, I would definitely go for the DW. Walbro has been said to become very loud after as little as months after installation. DW has a 3 year, no fault warranty (unheard of in the aftermarket FP world) and I've honestly never heard anything negative about them at all, though they are still relatively new.

Since I haven't received my new lock ring, I was able to take pictures of the popoff.

It's the obviously deformed thingy to the right of the pump. The cap sits inside the top of the siphone tube. A soldering iron works great to melt the plastic together, I "welded" it in by melting the plastic around the top of the siphon and pushing it over the edge of the cap.

 

Thanks for the pics man. I def plan on doing the FP upgrade soon ill be using those pics as reference when I need to weld/melt the cap.

 

Good luck with the DW pump, I've got one sitting in my garage. I managed to pick it up on a bad amazon add for 35 dollars. That's with the install kit. I've checked into them a bit and like their products. I'm tuning a set of injectors right now.

 

Not a problem, happy to help. I also used this thread Fuel Pump Solution - All Failure Modes as reference. It has great pictures and instructions for taking apart the assembly as there are quite a few pieces to it and it can be somewhat confusing, though it's by no means complicated. I also used Dawn dish soap and carb/throttle body cleaner to clean the filter sock.


That's a helluva deal there
The only thing from the install kit that you can/need to use are the hose clamps. The sock doesn't work with the fuel bowl, the connector we have plugs directly into the pump, and there's no use for the extra little hose they include.

 

Some updates.

Finally received my new fuel pump lock ring last wednesday, put the pump in the car, and was able to start it for the first time with the header.

The pump has a strictly electronic high-pitched noise to it that is barely audible, to the point where if you didn't know the pump was upgraded and are specifically listening for it, it wouldn't be heard. The pitch is also high enough that I'd venture to say most people wouldn't be able to hear it anyhow. Other than that, the flowing whirr of the pumping is absolutely unheard. Barely audible even with the seat and access panel off. As far as operation it seems to be working as it should with no starvation or any other funny stuff.

Also definitely liking the header. Flames are a little bigger out the back, backfire sound is more prominent, and the exhaust has more throat overall.

 

Installed the Atkins Rotary thermal bypass pellet. In the process of eccentric shaft bolt removal, my breaker bar that I've had for 6 years or so (that I welded the head solid top, bottom, and end of) bit the dust after the head twisted 1/4 way around.

Carnage and comparison:

 

Racing Beat REVi with Air Duct and MazdaSpeed strut bar installed:

 

Never got around to taking a picture of my catch can setup when I put it in last summer. Cheap eBay thing as I don't deem it something necessary of spending much on. It vents and doesn't dump oil all over my bay so it works for me. Though that micro K&N filter was 20 bucks lmao. I utilized what used to be the air pump bracket for mounting.

Ugh, in desperate need of a braided hose for it =/




After said installations were finished up, I was finally able to get it out of the garage for the first time in 6 months. Goddamn winter came too early, first snow making its appearance in October. And every time I get back in it after any period of not driving it (be it weeks or months).. I still am just loving this car.

The REVi sounds really nice, especially paired with the header, though I would certainly not call it a loud intake at all.

The RX8 Performance engine mounts are absolutely noticeable. A good bit of low end vibration and resonance but will not rattle your teeth. The shifter feels a little more solid as well and doesn't move nearly as much during a hard turn. I'm satisfied with them and would say they're worth the small investment.