RideAwry's '04 Nordic Green
 

I'd just like to say hello to the community. I've been here for a little while, read and learned a good bit, though I've never posted until now.
Anyhow, enough of the nonsense and on with the pictures:wiggle:

Introducing Ranton the Nord (04 Nordic Green Grand Touring)
The day I brought him home:
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Parked next to another RX-8 at a mall in another city:
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Since then I've fixed the tail light moisture, spray tinted the tail lights and fender marker lights.

Originating in the south, it has never seen salt or snow.
Tucked away, waiting for spring:tear::
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Today, it received an xCarlink iPod module and a ShiftStyle leather shift boot from ShiftStyle.com
Pictures honestly don't do this boot justice. The leather is about four times as thick as the factory vinyl faux leather.
I got black perforated leather with quadruple light grey stitching, thread has a nice shine to it and matches the silver interior trim very well.
Excuse the scratched knob (bought it that way):
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Welcome to the Club.

Very nice indeed, except you need to polish your Knob.

That was too easy. Lmao

Welcome aboard! :)

that is a nice looking boot--welcome.

Thanks fellas, this thread will serve as my modification log as well and I will update as modification occurs.
BHR ignition is currently en-route:aroused:

Haha. Someday when I find the ambition.

That nordic green is such an interesting car color.

I really like it as it appears a different color in every light. On a clear night it looks like a very nice dark metallic blue. Cloudy night, black. Cloudy day, gray. Sun, the green shows with large flakes of blue, green, and purple.

Nice Color! Next cheap thing to do to make the car look better, Go to autozone or kmart/walmart etc. and pick up some Trim restore. Mothers Back To Black or turtle wax trim stuff.. use it on them gray exhaust shrouds. Brings em back to the nice black of the rest of the rear plastic. I really like that shift boot.. my OEM one is all cracked. I think I might get this.

Also, Plasti dipping the emblems would look good IMO.

Thanks. If what I've read is correct, Nordic Green is the rarest color for RX-8's.

Thanks for the suggestions too. I had planned to use some high heat paint on the exhaust shrouds, but if the trim restore really works then that would be easier so I'll look into it. My shift boot was cracked, had two holes in it and was starting to get a third. The ShiftStyle boot is really nice, thick leather that you can choose from a ton of different colors, patterns, thread or piping, everything.
Also was considering the PlastiDip emblems. I'll probably end up giving it a try.

I think so...i've never seen one of that color yet, maybe not here in Vegas... :(

Yea it brings it back to a nice black color. You just have to re apply it every now and then when it starts to fade. I have seen people paint the whole rear plastic and look really good.

I have only seen maybe 3 Nordic greens. I wanted to buy one, but ended up getting a good deal on a yellow one. Where I live now, I think I'm the only yellow in the area. Just glad I don't own silver. Too many of them!

Well I've only ever seen one other RX-8 in person, the black one in the picture with mine above. Saw it a couple months or so after I bought mine.


Hm, perhaps I will just paint it after all. I'm just waiting for the warm weather to come back so I can install the parts I've slowly been accumulating and drive it again :tear:

I really wanted a white one but all the whites I found for sale were either shit condition/lots of problems or automatic (no way was I about to buy an automatic.) And, as you said, wasn't going for silver either because they're all silver. So I came across my green one in nearly flawless condition and bought it up immediately:D:
In the end, I think I'm happier with the green anyway.

Did the upgraded starter install today since it's sunny and almost warm, and I must say it is a HUGE improvement over the early model, slow starter. Definitely worth the investment.

Comparison photo (new one is slightly longer, motor is larger around, and a lot heavier):
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Was finally able to purchase a BHR ignition a few weeks ago. To attest to the good quality and service reputation of BHR, the day after I placed my order (placed on a Thursday) I received an email from Charles stating that he was unhappy with the quality of anodizing on his recent batch of coil brackets, and that they would be redone and it would be shipped Monday afternoon or Tuesday morning. Sure enough, I was given a tracking number Monday afternoon and received my package on Wednesday. Less than a week total from order to receipt, WITH the brackets being re-anodized during that time, is absolutely amazing. Very secure packaging as well. Thanks fellas, install will commence today.

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Nice looking Nordic. I also do think it is the rarest color of the 2004-2005 RX8s, but I think the rarest color for all of the years is Phantom Blue (I could be wrong though).

Anyway.....are you going to leave the wheels alone? I don't know how I feel about the red lip.....

No, they will change eventually. I have another set I'd like but it will be a while before I can afford them. The red lip is something I'm not into either.

Installed my BHR ignition this afternoon. I didn't find it to be as much of a pain as everything I read made it seem to be. Took me two hours, including spending a half hour or so just fighting the larger plug wires into the factory loom (though not necessary, I like everything to be as neat as possible.)

Comparison of new vs. old coils:
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Installed on the engine:
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Hint of blue peeking out:
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Pictures of the old spark plugs. Was pretty worried when I saw a very small amount of oil coming from the leading plug of the first rotor, and more so when the plug was a little difficult to turn out. Cross-thread was the thought in my mind as soon as I saw the oil.
The new one went in without any incident though so hopefully it was just not tightened/seated properly. I'll be keeping an eye on it.

The crush washer on the leaker is also slightly smaller than the others, possibly a manufacturing error, which could also cause the leak.
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I'd say they don't look too awful considering they're probably original to the engine replacement ~55,000 miles or so ago, though replacing them will definitely benefit.

The Fed-Ex fella brought me a nice package this afternoon.

Racing Beat midpipe!:D:

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After two attempts to install my RB midpipe, the first being unsuccessful due to a couple tools I didn't have, it is on the car as of today.

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Also purchased an extra long reach, extra low profile jack from Harbor Freight this weekend.

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that is the kind of jack you need for this car! :yumyum:

My thoughts exactly. All three of my cars are low enough that my standard Wal-Mart hydraulic jack required an angle/placement hunt every time, even after removing the carry handle.
This jack has a crazy low platform height of 2 5/8" while reaching farther than you should ever need to reach a frame rail or probably any other jacking point, without scratching your rocker panels, and also has a lift travel of two feet.
I'm completely satisfied, not the least bit wavered by its ~95 pound heft.

Do they provide gaskets with the RB pipe? Also, you gotta get on that Cat-Back!

With the midpipe, they provide the front crush gasket, but not the rear donut gasket as the instructions say to reuse the factory one. It also includes new bolts to the manifold and studs to the rear connecting pipe, but no nuts for either and says to again reuse the factory ones.

I bought all new nuts, used the new crush gasket and reused the factory donut gasket. The Rev8 catback will be my next purchase (hopefully within the next few weeks) and I plan to install a new donut gasket at that point. Then when I get the RB header I will replace the crush gasket with a carbon material gasket that is cut to the flange shape of the header and midpipe.

Other updates will come between the more major/more expensive parts:o:

I heard that the Rev8 is not much louder than the stock system. I have a mazsport midpipe on my car into a Greddy SE catback. love it.

That's what I read pretty much everywhere as well, which is really all I'm looking for. I don't want it to be much louder, just deeper and hear a little more than the engine noise itself.

Protek-R premix and 'The Perfect Beaker' for precise measurement and anti-spill capabilities:
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Small updates today. Apologies for the picture quality, or lack thereof.

OEM cargo net to keep my oil, premix, cleaning products, etc. from flying around my trunk.
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Air pump delete.
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Yes, I'm aware that the cover plate is intended to mount on the exhaust manifold, but I didn't want to break the rusty studs off and be in a bad situation. When I buy a header sometime down the road I will remove the tube and install the plate as designed.

So. I've neglected to log a few of my updates from last summer/fall, but as my stockpile of parts accrued over this winter continues to grow in anticipation of warm weather and bringing my 8 out of the garage again, I decided I'd better catch up.

Racing Beat Rev8 Catback:
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Cut out the simulated mesh sections of the rear bumper to show off the sexy mufflers, and painted the faded shrouds and lower section in high heat matte black:
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Also Plasti-Dipped the emblems black to complete the dark and sleek theme (no pictures yet).

Addition of the best dash buddy on the market:
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the car is coming along very nicely man!

Teaser of projects in the brew:
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Installed my Racing Beat header and RX8 Performance engine mounts yesterday.

The operating room:
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Comparison of the header vs. OE manifold and the aluminum/polyurethane mounts vs. OE stamped steel/rubber mounts:
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RB's impeccable R&D and attention to detail are evident even inside the collector:
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Install area, less OE manifold and mount:
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Header and new mount installed:
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And the full Racing Beat system is complete:
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Very nice man! Looking sexy as ever :aroused:

So. The old boy won round one of attempting to install a Deatschwerks DW200(255LPH) fuel pump. I bought a lock ring removal tool and broke the lock tabs off the tank, as many suggested. Ratchet on the tool; no go. Breaker bar on the tool; no go. Hammer and flat screwdriver; broken tabs(knew it before attempting).

Breaker bar + pipe for more leverage =
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In case anyone is unaware, this lock ring is a $50 piece of plastic. Why? Because it can be. If you need it, you'll buy it. If you don't, it's not something you'd ever think of replacing, much less paying as much for it.

Disassembled pump assembly and comparison of DW and OE pumps:
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Like the Walbro kits, Deatschwerks are universal kits that drop into our assembly without any modification. Kit includes a universal filter sock that cannot be used for our application(note the difference in locating pin orientation, let alone the special shape to fit the bowl). And for whatever pain-in-the-ass reason, a new OE filter sock cannot be obtained unless you buy a whole new assembly. Thus the only feasible option is to clean that NASTY thing you found attached to the OE setup.

My choice of the DW pump over Walbro is due to the loads of negative things I've heard and read over the last several years across the general automotive spectrum. The cheapest I found it available was from Black Halo Racing due to their included shipping, and this being my second order from them, I will again say that I very much recommend them and will definitely do business again.

Additional note:
Don't forget to melt the pop off cap onto the siphon as it cannot hold under the addition pressure of the high-flow pump.

Def looking forward to updates. I've been looking into getting a DW over a Walboro. And also do you have a pic of the pop off cap that needs to be melted onto the siphon?

For $10 more, I would definitely go for the DW. Walbro has been said to become very loud after as little as months after installation. DW has a 3 year, no fault warranty (unheard of in the aftermarket FP world) and I've honestly never heard anything negative about them at all, though they are still relatively new.

Since I haven't received my new lock ring, I was able to take pictures of the popoff.

It's the obviously deformed thingy to the right of the pump. The cap sits inside the top of the siphone tube. A soldering iron works great to melt the plastic together, I "welded" it in by melting the plastic around the top of the siphon and pushing it over the edge of the cap.

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Thanks for the pics man. I def plan on doing the FP upgrade soon ill be using those pics as reference when I need to weld/melt the cap.

Good luck with the DW pump, I've got one sitting in my garage. I managed to pick it up on a bad amazon add for 35 dollars. That's with the install kit. I've checked into them a bit and like their products. I'm tuning a set of injectors right now.

Not a problem, happy to help. I also used this thread Fuel Pump Solution - All Failure Modes as reference. It has great pictures and instructions for taking apart the assembly as there are quite a few pieces to it and it can be somewhat confusing, though it's by no means complicated. I also used Dawn dish soap and carb/throttle body cleaner to clean the filter sock.


That's a helluva deal there:eek:
The only thing from the install kit that you can/need to use are the hose clamps. The sock doesn't work with the fuel bowl, the connector we have plugs directly into the pump, and there's no use for the extra little hose they include.

Some updates.

Finally received my new fuel pump lock ring last wednesday, put the pump in the car, and was able to start it for the first time with the header.

The pump has a strictly electronic high-pitched noise to it that is barely audible, to the point where if you didn't know the pump was upgraded and are specifically listening for it, it wouldn't be heard. The pitch is also high enough that I'd venture to say most people wouldn't be able to hear it anyhow. Other than that, the flowing whirr of the pumping is absolutely unheard. Barely audible even with the seat and access panel off. As far as operation it seems to be working as it should with no starvation or any other funny stuff.

Also definitely liking the header. Flames are a little bigger out the back, backfire sound is more prominent, and the exhaust has more throat overall.

Installed the Atkins Rotary thermal bypass pellet. In the process of eccentric shaft bolt removal, my breaker bar that I've had for 6 years or so (that I welded the head solid top, bottom, and end of) bit the dust after the head twisted 1/4 way around.

Carnage and comparison:
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Racing Beat REVi with Air Duct and MazdaSpeed strut bar installed:
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Never got around to taking a picture of my catch can setup when I put it in last summer. Cheap eBay thing as I don't deem it something necessary of spending much on. It vents and doesn't dump oil all over my bay so it works for me. Though that micro K&N filter was 20 bucks lmao. I utilized what used to be the air pump bracket for mounting.

Ugh, in desperate need of a braided hose for it =/

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After said installations were finished up, I was finally able to get it out of the garage for the first time in 6 months. Goddamn winter came too early, first snow making its appearance in October. And every time I get back in it after any period of not driving it (be it weeks or months).. I still am just loving this car.

The REVi sounds really nice, especially paired with the header, though I would certainly not call it a loud intake at all.

The RX8 Performance engine mounts are absolutely noticeable. A good bit of low end vibration and resonance but will not rattle your teeth. The shifter feels a little more solid as well and doesn't move nearly as much during a hard turn. I'm satisfied with them and would say they're worth the small investment.