RB Ram Air Duct with stock air box.
08-31-2005, 05:03 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
Wouldn't you need to clamp both? Otherwise it wounldn't be air tight.
There might be some pressure, but for that, the provided seal should be sufficient.
Here are some pictures that show how the stock air box inlet is. The dimensions of the oval inlet are 4.5 x 3" and the gap between the stock air box and the oval opening is rather 2.5" instead of 2".
The VFAD actually extends through the oval hole in the front and attaches to the airbox behind it, wrapping around the stock box's oval inlet.
08-31-2005, 05:08 PM
#28
Originally Posted by HERO
hmmmm, any suggentions on the materials needed to fabricate the connection between the duct and the stock intake box? I haven't had the front bumper off myself so i dont know how it all looks firsthand...
08-31-2005, 06:28 PM
#29
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tamas,
Thank you for going the extra step by taking pictures. You have made it very clear what needs to be done. Do you think I could make an extension out of the stock VFAD?
Once again, thanks for going out of your way to take the pictures.
Thank you for going the extra step by taking pictures. You have made it very clear what needs to be done. Do you think I could make an extension out of the stock VFAD?
Once again, thanks for going out of your way to take the pictures.
08-31-2005, 07:34 PM
#30
You're welcome... and yes, I definitely think that severing the VFAD would be the easiest solution. The only drawback is that you'll never be able to restore the intake to the stock form, but on the other hand, that shouldn't be a real problem.
However, the VFAD tube is smaller than the oval hole since it goes through it, so you need to make sure that you somehow create a good seal. The seal should be on the air box side since the duct touches the metal from the front.
Just make sure you measure exactly where to cut, and use some thick, good weatherstripping that you can split in the middle so that you can wrap it around the oval hole in the sheetmetal. Then, both the cold air duct and the fabricated adapter will be pressed against that, providing a good seal.
One more thing - you'll need to plug the nipple for the VFAD actuator after removing it. Racing Beat provides a plastic cap to do that. I can try to get a pic that shows the location the plug goes to, if needed.
However, the VFAD tube is smaller than the oval hole since it goes through it, so you need to make sure that you somehow create a good seal. The seal should be on the air box side since the duct touches the metal from the front.
Just make sure you measure exactly where to cut, and use some thick, good weatherstripping that you can split in the middle so that you can wrap it around the oval hole in the sheetmetal. Then, both the cold air duct and the fabricated adapter will be pressed against that, providing a good seal.
One more thing - you'll need to plug the nipple for the VFAD actuator after removing it. Racing Beat provides a plastic cap to do that. I can try to get a pic that shows the location the plug goes to, if needed.
09-01-2005, 10:46 AM
#33
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I called RB and asked if they were going to make an adapter. They said most likely not becasue they think there isn't enough demand, however, they have looked into it.
09-03-2005, 09:01 PM
#35
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I bought the air duct yesterday and installed it. I had to fab a tube on to the stock air box. It works great and at idle you can feel it sucking the air from the front grill. The sound is awesome!
09-03-2005, 09:28 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a comment:
It's a market strategy fr. Racing Beat to introduce their Ram air duct as you know the REVI itself already cost bucko bucks and so the duct itself so they introduce it at a later date. I'm sure they already have it planned that way. Anyways, it's still worth the upgrade. REVI+ram air duct happy customer here...
It's a market strategy fr. Racing Beat to introduce their Ram air duct as you know the REVI itself already cost bucko bucks and so the duct itself so they introduce it at a later date. I'm sure they already have it planned that way. Anyways, it's still worth the upgrade. REVI+ram air duct happy customer here...
09-03-2005, 09:50 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
Ok, I bought the air duct yesterday and installed it. I had to fab a tube on to the stock air box. It works great and at idle you can feel it sucking the air from the front grill. The sound is awesome!
09-04-2005, 04:42 PM
#42
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tamas
Nice... duct tape and cut plastic bucket rock! :D
One thing worth mentioning: not sure how much do those protruding screws disturb the airflow, but I'd have used some rivets instead. Other than that, great work.
One thing worth mentioning: not sure how much do those protruding screws disturb the airflow, but I'd have used some rivets instead. Other than that, great work.
09-04-2005, 05:07 PM
#43
Modena
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wentzville, MO
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
Thats a really good idea. I have rivets and a rivet gun, but I'm not about to do it all over again. The screws are in front of the air filter so I don't think it makes any difference. And the car runs great, no stalling or anything like that. Anybody want to share thoughts on the subject?
You could do with out.....
Proved that here with pictures
Makes it looks so?
(You now what I want to say here)
09-04-2005, 06:44 PM
#44
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by modena
Leave the bucket
You could do with out.....
Proved that here with pictures
Makes it looks so?
(You now what I want to say here)
You could do with out.....
Proved that here with pictures
Makes it looks so?
(You now what I want to say here)
09-04-2005, 07:38 PM
#45
Modena
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wentzville, MO
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No offence here, but a "bucket". Good idea do....
But our RX-8 deserves more then a bucket. (Sounds beyond rice)
Hence cutting up the vfad and showing that it would give the same effect as your bucket.
Again no insult or injury meant
But our RX-8 deserves more then a bucket. (Sounds beyond rice)
Hence cutting up the vfad and showing that it would give the same effect as your bucket.
Again no insult or injury meant
09-04-2005, 11:28 PM
#46
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can't see any of the plastic because the body frame covers it. Cutting the stock VFAD and using that won't work because of size restrictions. I don't think it's rice at all.
05-26-2006, 03:48 PM
#47
Ziel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florence, KY
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this thread is ancient and no one will probably ever view it, but I have crafted a connector between the duct and stock air box that looks factory built. Some have experimented with using the stock VFAD as a connector, and this works perfectly if you cut it right behind the foam sealer. The RB duct fits right up against the foam, from the VFAD remnant, and creates a seal that i'm willing to be t rivals the REvi and duct combination. This way those with the stock set up can get the benefits of cold air induction, with a seal, along with the "ram air" design. Works great with the K&N drop in filter, can feel a bit more mid range punch.
06-18-2006, 12:09 AM
#49
Ziel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florence, KY
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think I'll be taking off the bumper any time soon again (was a pain in the *** first time around) so I can't get pictures of the connector. All I can do is describe it (unless you get me a diagram picture). When you take out the VFAD you'll notice that where it slides through the chassis opening, and into the stock box, there is a foam piece (the only one on the entire device) that secures the tube as it passes through the chassis opening, at least I think that's what it's for. Just cut parallel to the foam directly behind it (on the side of the front of the car) and then put the part you removed, with the foam, back into where it came from like before. Next, put in your duct and secure it according to the directions and it should rest against the foam ring (it will be larger than the tube opening itself but still functions fine) and now you have a near stock looking set up with the new duct. Don't forget to securely plug up the vacuum tube from the VFAD too. Sorry I don't have any pictures and that I'm too lazy to remove the bumper again.