A CEL happenes with the pulley, after all it underdrives it. I had it and had the same issue, once it was off I had no blinking or solid CEL. It couldnt hurt to do a tune up and get plugs and coils though. You can try resetting the ECU, but that really didnt make a difference for me. You should have tried to call AP first though.

I had the CEL when I installed the pulley first but I did the 20 brake tap and it went away and never came back....so I dunno

my car holds up in idle when i first start the car and drive slow. but if i give it a little more then 3000rpm when i go into neutral the cars rpms bobble at like 500 k and even stalls sometimes. it feels like shit when rolling up to a light or stop sign bobbling at 500 k. need help on what might be the problem. did the 20x brake pedal and that fixed the problem of the car dying in idle when i just turn the ac on. now i have this problem when im driving around the city cant have the car go to neutral with out bobbing around the 500rpm mark and even stalling out. what may be my problem???

Hmm... good idea, I will check that.

If there is a misfire under hard acceleration would I be able to feel/notice it? Also, if there is in fact a misfire, does that present any danger/problem or power loss with my car?

Thanks for all the help guys, there is a seriously good knowledge base here.:)


Also, there is a minor scratch on the pulley itself. Would that create a weight diffrence that would be enough at higher RPM to cause a balance issue which would generate a misfire code? ( I didn't really think about this before because it seemed so implausible.)

Don't lie. You can't hear that good anymore. Old age is creepin on a come up. That's a Bone Thugs N Harmony note for you MI folk.

Right, I just helped another forum member put in an AP and yes it threw a CEL, but after the reset it was good...no issues........a little while later it came back on(same day), but after another 20 tap it's been good to go since. I believe this was due to the order of the reset vs sloading his tuning map?????????

To the OP, when you did the 20 brake pedal tap did the oil pressure sweep?

Try it again for shits and grins, you never know.

Yeah, I do it each time I get in the car now lol... and the oil pressure goes to 3/4 of the way up and then back down.

I am just kind of surprised that no one else has had this problem and not been able to get rid of it.

I will call AP and see what they say.

Thanks for all the input guys.

LOL yeah, they will pass you off and not help at all. Vivid blows!

wmtodd: "Yes, Vivid Racing, I bought your Agency Power crank pulley for my RX-8 and it threw a CEL..."

Vivid: "OK, disconnect your battery"

wmtodd: "I already did that....."

Vivid: "Are you sure?"

wmtodd: "Yes, I'm sure!"

Vivid: "OK, try checking your local owners forum, like rx8club"

wmtodd: "Did that as well....."

Vivid: "Ummm, hmmmm, really? Errrrr, gsshhhhh *static sounds* I'm going through a tunnel *more static* I'm losing you...."

wmtodd: "But you're on a land line!!"

Vivid: uhhhhh *garrgling* uh oh *hang up*

Haha I just orded the AP pully from Vivid, should be up here in Canada in about a week, when i talked with them on the phone they seemed very helpful, but i was also just ordering the pully. We'll see what happens after the install in the next week or two.

you guys r lucky my car still idles like crap and when i turn the AC on it stalls after a few seconds or sometimes or idle bounces around i dont know what could be wrong everything is on tight and secure. everytime i start the car i do the 20 brake pedal oil pressure goes up but still runs like crap. dont know what can be the problem. i have mazdamaniacs Access port coming hope a new map or something can help this idle sit still. feels like my car doesnt have the same power anymore either with the higher rpms weird.. also got bhr ignition coils coming hoping that might help as well.. someone help me please...

sounds like this mod is alot of trouble than its worth.

yeah, i think that was it. i reflashed my map with the cobbAP thinking it would reset everything. the light stayed on. i did the taps, and it went off. then it came on again later. so i did the taps, then reflashed my map, and it's been off ever since.

i didn't read this whole thread, did you ask if the plate came off?

i haven't had any other issues, and i enjoy the slightly faster rev and de-rev. i'd say it's worth it.

The AccessPORT will most likely NOT fix your problem...this is a problem a lot of people do- they buy an engine management system thinking it will solve a current running issue. That's not what they are for- and it's going to make you and your tuner very upset when it's time to tune....

That's what was wrong with my car for nearly a year after turbo. I finally listened to some AZ folks and got off my dead ass to put a sreen in. It purs smoothly now. No hicups

So I just finished installing the AP pulley and gotta say, for the 185 bucks it cost me to get it up here it is worth the time and money! Took me about 45 mins to get the stock airbox out and replace the pulley, and you can definitly feel it in the 4-6 range in gears 1-3. But as for the CEL, I also got it, the 20 tap reset wouldn't clear it. I then disconnected the battery tapped the brakes and waited about 5 mins. Then I did the Odo reset and took it for a drive. my DSC light and traction light were on but after I drove and restarted the car all is well...

Hey guys, thanks again for all the info/ help. Law school just started up again, so I have been super busy.

I have tried everything and still I am getting the same CEL code, of a misfire.

Do you guys think that I may have a faulty e-shaft sensor? If so is there anyway to check this without just replacing it at the dealership?

If not, I am probably just going to leave the pulley on and just get my code cleared every once in a while.

I understand that, but I only have the problem with the pulley on. I got the car with the pulley on and I was getting the same cel. Then I took it off, and drove it for about a year. Then I wanted it back on, because I love it, and the same CEL came on.

This leads me to believe that I may have a faulty e shaft sensor. I cannot think of any other reason why it doesn't go away after I do the reset, unless its really not resetting because of a faulty sensor.?

Thank you for the help though. I just think it is to coincidental to be unrelated.

if its bugging you so much just get a mechanic to do a diagnostics test on it and see what could be causing it.