Hey Guys,

Been doing some reading around about o2 sims and it seems none work for out cars to to the response frequency modulation and other factors. I have a full 3" engine back exhaust from exoticspeed with the hi flow midpipe. That midpipe origonally came with a spacer with a filter in it. With that installed the Car threw the CEL P0139 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)). I removed the spacer provided and without it i get a different CEL (catalytic converter system below threshold). Any idea of any other spacers available for our cars and if any of them work. I know various owners have found methods that work for some but not all. I would like to try other spacers first to see if I can find one that is just right before I have a tuner just erase the CEL's all together so even if they are thrown they will be deleted and wont trigger. If i am ignorant I apologize i am not to familiar with the workings of this system yet, any help is appreciated

Thanks Guys

 

You obviously haven't been reading here much. Spacers, foulers, cheats do not work on our car.

Some people have gotten lucky and don't get a CEL, or get on rarely, but the majority don't. The only real option is to block the CEL with an AccessPort.

Now go read some stickies and learns some new stuffs.

 

Yes, some people get lucky with different setups so im looking for different spacer options as i get different codes per each setup to see if one will get lucky on my car why not spend $50 trying different spacers before dropping 600 on a COBB, also any tuning shop can delete the CEL you dont need just a COBB and they will do it for alot less but before getting into that severe of a step i figured i'd start small. but i can't find any spacers for our cars for sale anywhere.

 

You obviously didn't read what i wrote and haven't done any research about your car. You can clear cel's with a simple code reader from autozone. You can't block them without reflashing your ecu. To do that you have to send the ecu to racing beat, or you need an accessport. You can also go standalone and not have to deal with any of it. None of the spacers or gimmicks work. There are plenty of threads on this forum where people have tried them and failed. Go waste your money.

 

Any tuning shop can modify your ECU to block a CEL, My ECU has already been reflashed with an aftermarket tune. They can block CEL's while they do that Access ports are not the only option. I already can clear my CEL's with an app on my phone but i can't block them. And like I said earlier people have found various setups that have worked thats what i'm looking for if it doesn't i wasted 50 bucks like you said its hit or miss, i don't feel like getting my ECU reflashed again which is cheaper than any option you advised. I already know no sims work but if you search around people have gotten spacers and different setups to work. not all the time but some have worked that all im trying to do here worst case ill get a reflash

 

who flashed it and with what? There isn't even an open source flash out there to date. I highly doubt any shop out there owns Mazda's ecu flash software. Good luck in your quest, you're obviously smarter than the rest of the community here.

 

My tech at the Mazda Dealer is a buddy of mine and did it for me, changed the A/F after the updated recall flashes from Mazda they adjusted the A/F to over compensate and run rich, he readjusted mine, and increased performance you can see this on my Dyno's in my album I am at 230Whp stock ran on two completly different dyno setups

 

you and your mechanic are full of ****. All the dealership has access to are mazda calibrated flashes. If it were otherwise, everyone would be flocking to the dealership for a custom tune. You are not at 230whp stock, maybe 230 crank hp on a fresh engine.

btw 5th gear pull = doing it wrong.

 

5th gear pull is 1:1 gearing aka doing it right. you lose all your transmission losses, and my guy is a 25 year Mazda tech specialized on rotary cars and is a great family friend and did it for me because i am out of warranty and I signed a waiver that the dealer is not responsible. and BTW my 4th gear pull was 225WHP which is doing it wrong

 

Like i said, you obviously have it all figured out. smh.

 

Obviously you do alot of taking but don't work on cars, talk to anyone who knows anything you always pull in 1:1 gearing, rotary owners shy away due to high RPM range and prolonged engine stress. but we had a cool day with an exceptional cooling system available to use hence the 5th gear pull. Don't see how anyone would ever say a 1:1 pull is wrong

 

 

Give it up Fuz, he can delete CEL's in open source and he's already up 30 stock h.p. on the rest of us!

He's magic.

 

Make this easy video, photo, dyno sheet or didn't happened. Also put a piece of paper with your user name and date.

 

R24power, there is some extraordinary and brilliant people one this board. Listen to them grasshopper.
The clams you are making, 230 whp, with the modification you have made would be like me saying I gained 10 whp by changing the type of oil I use. It just is not going to happen.


The dyno needs the be calibrated. One more time, the dyno needs work.

Has anyone tried this??(see Attach pic)

 

You be lucky with 230hp on a street port. just saying

 

Wont work, this is how those off the shelf o2 sims are made, the 555 timer is a great solution for cars that are expecting a sinusoidal wave from the rear o2, but our cars calculate the peak and rms of the sine wave as a function of the voltage seen by the front o2 sensor.

To be able to successfully simulate the rear o2 of our cars you would need a device that takes an input from the front o2, and uses it to calculate the expected output of the rear o2.

 

dang 140 lbs of TQ at 1K rpm and then up to 180 something? Wow--on a oem NA engine with a tune?

 

Paimon, thanks, you just saved me $15 bucks.
Are you still lookin for fog lights?

 

I am only if the price is right.

 

I can make like 280 whp on a mustang dyno.

 

That's all? I got like 40hp from an ebay intake and matching Greeddyy 2" exhaust. The smaller size makes it flow faster. I'm up to like 310.

 

Guess that means I'm making like 240~260HP with my bridge port...

 

So wait, I have looked up a lot of things to try and improve my RX and one did say putting in the spacers for the o2 helped with the warm starting issues, so was all that a farce? The spacers dont work on RX8? I saw it on this forum, so how do we know what is actually correct and not? This is my first 8 but I owned 3- 7s the tech has changed but I do need to know actual good information...

 

yes, it was all bad information that still persists to this day

and this entire thread too

.