MisterZJ

Dear Forum:

I need your assistance in deciding which mods to go with and in what order/priority:

I have a 2004 RX-8 6SP With a factory style K&N & Greddy Cat Back (85k Miles).

Here is my thought process of what I want to do (some are performance related and others are mechanical)

I REALLY REALLY want the Esmeril Turbo kit; however, that is a tad out of my price range. The kit also sounds like it would require an upgrade on the APEX seals, which is even more money tearing down the engine to replace.

*4.777 Final Gear
*AEM CAI
*Polishing down the Throttle Body
*Cleaning the MAF Sensor
*Adding new slotted rotors & ceramic pads
*Painting brake calipers red
*Racing Exhaust Header
*Short Shifter
*BHR Ignition System
*New set of Iridium Plugs


I already have a new set of plug wires to go along with the new ignition system & plugs.

Basically, what are your thoughts on the order in which I should complete these upgrades?

I remember when I had an '02 GT Mustang and went from .327 to .373 gears, it was night and day and "felt" like someone unleashed an additional 50 hp. Would the final gear be similar?

Thanks in advance for all advice.

I have also heard the lightweight flywheel would help, but wouldn't that require major labor costs to swap?

Thanks,

Matt

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

dont expect anything much out of the throttle body. and dont expect anything you can feel out of headers, least not for any NA motor.

the cheapest, simplest things you can do for power are get rid of the cat, and tuning.

suspension, many here will say the top 2 things: shocks and sways

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

A light weight flywheel does the same thing as changing the rear gear ratio. It allows the car to accelerate faster. You are reducing the rotational mass allowing the RPM's to change quicker, making shifting easier. A LWF will also maintain your gas mileage. A gear change will lower that.
As for labor costs, A LWF won't be significantly more than a clutch replacement (which could be done at the same time). This can be taken care of in a driveway. There is a large nut, on rotary engines, that needs to be removed and a special tool is required. To replace the rear axle ratio, there is a lot of measuring and shimming to get the ring & pinion to align properly. I would call that a toss up. If you have an auto trans, then the rear ratio change is your only option.
The other mods on your list, while they will give a couple of HP, you won't feel any change once you are done.

MisterZJ

Thanks for the feedback! I probably won't do the flywheel until my clutch indeed goes out, and was thinking about the 4.777; however, based on your info about having to measure and shim, the labor cost is intimidating me So you won't be able to "feel" any pickup with the BHR coils and new plugs, TB polishing, AEM CAI, etc..?? And if I were going to remove the cat, what pipe is recommended to put in its place if I am not looking to sound like a prop plane taking off as I already have the Greddy SP2 Cat-Back. I am ready to spend around $1k or less on this performance/mechanical upgrade weekend

Keep the advice flowing.

Thanks!

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I've done NA fwiw:

BHR high output ignition system, incl. GMC Yukon Delco coils and MSD cables
Cobb AccessPort ECU Tuner with custom tuned MazdaManiac maps
Racing Beat Gauge Pod: Oil Pressure/Temp & Coolant Temp with mechanical sensors
AFE Short Shifter with Voodoo Magnum Pearl ****, laser-etched shift pattern
Racing Brake Sport slotted/curved vane Rotors
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
Russell brake Speedbleeders
Racing Beat Ram Intake Duct, custom mated to stock intake
K&N high flow flat Air Filter
Clutch Pedal Reinforcement bracket - Mazsport/Race Roots
Mazda Screen on AC Condenser and Racing Beat screens on Oil Coolers
Oil Catch Can with Breather Filter
Fumoto brass ball valve oil pan drain
Aldehyde high filtration Cabin Air Filter
Clear side corners with Stealth bulbs
Front brake vent Strakes, color matched to vehicle
Rotary Stainless Accents fore and aft bumpers
McGard Spline drive lug nuts
Enkei RP03 18x9.5 +38 Rims/TPMS & 265x35 BF Goodrich g-Force T-A KDW2 Tires

Misc.

Redline Transmission and Differential oils, changed at 20k miles
Engine oil (5w30 Castrol GTX) and Mazda filter changed every 3k miles
Idemitsu 2-cycle oil 4 oz per gas tankful since 12k miles

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

no. if you could actually feel a difference in power with those mods, you had serious issues to begin with.

i have the MS catback and currently a gutted OE catpipe. it sounds virtually identical to when the cat was in it. i have yet to hear a resonated midpipe in person that i liked. I am in line for BHR's pipe though

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

This may actually allow you to feel a change, with a mid pipe replacement, once you get your custom maps made. The two will will use up most of the money you have budgeted and, in my opinion, will give you the most for your money.
There may even be enough to add the "Racing Beat Ram Intake Duct, custom mated to stock intake" as Huey (and I ) did.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

^ Yep. Of what limited performance mod's I've done, these did make a noticeable/measurable positive difference:

BHR high output ignition system, incl. GMC Yukon Delco coils and MSD cables
Cobb AccessPort ECU Tuner with custom tuned MazdaManiac maps

The others were more 'butt dyno' but still an improvement in aggregate.

A mid-pipe (track) or high flow Cat (street legal) would also make significant improvements.

Taz Ismail

Does BHR ignition coils system makes a big difference in performance ??

yiksing

More of a reliability upgrade than a performance upgrade imo.

WTBRotary!

iTrader: (6)

BDC does a good Throttle body polishing... hes a good guy
BHR ignition system ive heard is amazing and cant wait to get it...
AFE Short Shifter is also a mod on my list... id love to get...

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

By itself the BHR ignition system is more a reliability component, but coupled with the other NA performance improvements it does make a difference as it assures optimal spark which in turn facilitates getting the most out of a tune.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

only FI will give you the power your after.

MisterZJ

What about the Plasma Direct coils? I have searched high and low and cannot seem to find someone who has actually bought them, installed them, and gave a review vs other kits, such as BHR or Esmeril, or even the HKS system?

Any thoughts? Take price out of the equation and talk about sheer functionality.

Thanks,

Matt

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

^ as we don't have true direct injection I'm not sure what the value would be. Ol' fashioned spark seems to work just fine.

BDC

Black Halo Racing's coil package I think is a good one. The Rx8 factory ignitor/coil packs are garbage. BHR's replacement, with mounting hardware and electrical connector clips, is far higher quality and priced nicely for the package. I'd recommend it.

B

MisterZJ

Next weekend I am doing the following to my car:

*Installing Drilled/Slotted Rotors (all 4) plus Ceramic Pads
*Painting Brake Calipers Red
*Installing AEM CAI
*Installing Dual-Resonated Mid-Pipe
*Installing Short-Throw Shifter
*Installing New Shift Boot
*Installing New Iridium Plugs
*Installing New Plasma Coils
*Installing New Smoke 3rd LED Brake Light (good for 20hp lol)
*Going to clean & polish/port a little the Throttle Body
*Cleaning the MAF Sensor
*Going to try everything in my power to fix my tail light leak (I have a fish in there now lol)

It is going to be a busy weekend, but it is time to show a little love to my car lol. The plasma coils were very expensive, but I talked him down to $625, plus I needed them here before BHR could get them. I kinda wish I was doing these mods one at a time to see if I could notice any gains, other than audible ones; however, by doing them all at once, i'm sure to notice at least SOMETHING

Any tips on siliconing the tail lights? I know there is a DIY on here, which i'm going to re-read. Do you silicone the gasket TO the light, or does the silicone need to silicone the gasket to the body of the car? Where exactly is the leaking happening?

Also, am I correct to say that if you add the AEM you cannot keep the factory engine cover? Doesn't it secure itself to the factory air-box, which will be removed? I only ask because I lost mine about 20k ago (I say lost, I think the damn oil change place forgot to put it on, and when i called back, they "never saw it" etc ! VERY pissed that day)

I already have the Greddy SP2 Cat-Back, so I know I will notice a louder exhaust, can't wait Also, is the only way to clear the surely to come CEL by getting the Accessport or taping over it, or removing the bulb? I have heard some never see the light, but i'm sure with my '04 and my luck, it is sure to come! I hate lights on my dash though. I do live in GA, where they test emissions, but they don't sniff; however, the CEL is a dead give-away, so my plan is simply to hang on to the cat and swap it out before I have to go get the test done. Only once a year, I can manage.

last question. Would you guys recommend disconnecting the battery during all these mods that way the computer and re-learn everything with the new equipment? Sounds logical to me; however, on some threads, I have heard recommendations to NOT do such a thing.

What are your thoughts?