My new intake observations...
04-13-2004, 08:56 PM
#1
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My new intake observations...
Okay...
I just got back from my vacation in Maui. It was very fun, and a plus is that our villa was right next to California Governor, Arnold Shwarzaneggar's. When we headed toward our villa, we saw him and his wife Maria leave with their children and some S.S. guards. We stayed at the Four Season's, it was pretty damn nice; anyway, who cares about my vacation!!
I put the K/N intake back on my 8, (this is without the heat shield). Like the first time I installed it, I noticed that the car's shift speed was slower. So, after comtemplating what to do I went to the highway for a test. I drove on cruise at 75 mph in 4th. After 2 miles, I switched to 3rd as fast as I could on the shifter. I repeated this swicthing from 4th to 3rd for about 16 miles. After that, I drove the heck out of it on a back road and vuala!! My shifts have increased in speed and are back to normal. I will give the car a month, then see how it shifts then. I am thinking that the car has to get used to the more air, etc.
Soon, I am going to fabricate an aluminum heat shield on one of our CNC machines at work. With the heat shield, the K/N should get atleast the same HP as the Rotary extreme's, if not better because of the larger filter. IMO!
So... my shifting woe's are over and all I need is the heat shield. Now, this is sorf of off topic; but where is the best place I can go to get OEM size front and rear drilled, slotted, and vented rotors??
Thanks.
Troy J.
I just got back from my vacation in Maui. It was very fun, and a plus is that our villa was right next to California Governor, Arnold Shwarzaneggar's. When we headed toward our villa, we saw him and his wife Maria leave with their children and some S.S. guards. We stayed at the Four Season's, it was pretty damn nice; anyway, who cares about my vacation!!
I put the K/N intake back on my 8, (this is without the heat shield). Like the first time I installed it, I noticed that the car's shift speed was slower. So, after comtemplating what to do I went to the highway for a test. I drove on cruise at 75 mph in 4th. After 2 miles, I switched to 3rd as fast as I could on the shifter. I repeated this swicthing from 4th to 3rd for about 16 miles. After that, I drove the heck out of it on a back road and vuala!! My shifts have increased in speed and are back to normal. I will give the car a month, then see how it shifts then. I am thinking that the car has to get used to the more air, etc.
Soon, I am going to fabricate an aluminum heat shield on one of our CNC machines at work. With the heat shield, the K/N should get atleast the same HP as the Rotary extreme's, if not better because of the larger filter. IMO!
So... my shifting woe's are over and all I need is the heat shield. Now, this is sorf of off topic; but where is the best place I can go to get OEM size front and rear drilled, slotted, and vented rotors??
Thanks.
Troy J.
04-13-2004, 09:37 PM
#2
Re: My new intake observations...
Originally posted by JeupRX-8
but where is the best place I can go to get OEM size front and rear drilled, slotted, and vented rotors??
Thanks.
Troy J.
but where is the best place I can go to get OEM size front and rear drilled, slotted, and vented rotors??
Thanks.
Troy J.
04-13-2004, 11:10 PM
#4
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Originally posted by DavisRx8
Heat reduction and anti-warping is the primary advantage.
Heat reduction and anti-warping is the primary advantage.
(oh, i don't mean for you Davis, just people who sell cross drilled rotors).
also note that this is not the same as casting a rotor that already has venting holes in it (which on factory show cars is for looks, and in the case of Porshe ceramic rotors could be for any number of things which are probably not reasons related to the design and function of steel rotors).
Last edited by wakeech; 04-13-2004 at 11:13 PM.
04-13-2004, 11:51 PM
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Keep in mind those of us who have been tracking the car have been mostly experience 0 brake fade. If you upgrade anything just get better pads. That is all you need and not even that for the street. The stock setup is excellent.
04-17-2004, 12:11 AM
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When we headed toward our villa, we saw him and his wife Maria leave with their children and some S.S. guards
U.S. Secret Service special agents protect the President, Vice President, and their immediate families; Presidential candidates; former Presidents; and foreign dignitaries visiting the United States. But not governors. I am sure they were his own private detail or state police but since he was out of the country on vacation my bet is private security.
Last edited by KrustyKlown; 04-17-2004 at 12:25 AM.
04-17-2004, 12:45 PM
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In regards to getting drilled, slotted rotors; it is so I don't have to worry about having rusty hubs on my rotors. The stock ones on mine are all rust, and it looks like white trash. Plus, the drilled, vented rotors DO make a differance in performance. And if anyone who has tracked this car who says there is no fade, they must not know how to drive @ the track. We have a Ferrari Maranello and had to upgrade the Brembo brakes because of fade. On a comparable note, or old BMW M3 had fade also when we took it to the track and those are only 13" around. Not very many OEM brakes are suited for a weekend at the track.
Troy J.
Troy J.
04-17-2004, 07:19 PM
#10
I haven't experienced brake issues but instead of rotors, I am installing stainless lines and doing a damn good bleeding job. That's all I'll need as these 8's stop on a dime!!
Charles
Charles
04-18-2004, 09:48 PM
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Back to the topic, I don't see how fancy shifting will make your car say, "Aha! Now I know how to handle all of this extra airflow better!" But I guess you aren't having the idle problems most of us had. I got a refund on my K&N.
04-21-2004, 08:43 PM
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My 8 seems to shift perfect now, I believe its been in now for roughly 1-1/2 weeks. I just put my B&B midpipe in, and all I can say is what a differance! I noticed an acceleration increase throughout the powerband with my intake (I have a custom heat shield, and intake mouth in the front bumper), particularly @ 4500 to 7500. With my midpipe, the car feels great! It actually starts to pull you back into the seat when you gun it at around 4k & up. It was a major differance than with the stock cat.
I would recommend it to everyone on this board to get an intake, and a midpipe, and a catback. It makes the air run extremely smoothly and my car runs on the highway @ fewer rpms now. I am running roughly 750 rpm less @ 70, than before. I get my B&B catback in 3 weeks, then my engine tuning will be complete for the time being. The only complaint I have, is that my car smells like one of our snowmobiles after you rev the engine; but there is no cat to stop the emissions... Plus, my stock 02 sensor worked without a CEL!
In regards to the brakes, in June I am going to put the car on blocks at the race shop and we are getting 12.7" F & 12.7" R rotors drilled, slotted, vented. I am upgrading in the rears .8", it should look better. I am then going to powdercoat the calipers either red or yellow.
I will post a writeup when I get the catback on...
TRoy J.
I would recommend it to everyone on this board to get an intake, and a midpipe, and a catback. It makes the air run extremely smoothly and my car runs on the highway @ fewer rpms now. I am running roughly 750 rpm less @ 70, than before. I get my B&B catback in 3 weeks, then my engine tuning will be complete for the time being. The only complaint I have, is that my car smells like one of our snowmobiles after you rev the engine; but there is no cat to stop the emissions... Plus, my stock 02 sensor worked without a CEL!
In regards to the brakes, in June I am going to put the car on blocks at the race shop and we are getting 12.7" F & 12.7" R rotors drilled, slotted, vented. I am upgrading in the rears .8", it should look better. I am then going to powdercoat the calipers either red or yellow.
I will post a writeup when I get the catback on...
TRoy J.
04-21-2004, 09:30 PM
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You realize this is not really possible right?
jds
jds
Originally posted by JeupRX-8
...
I would recommend it to everyone on this board to get an intake, and a midpipe, and a catback. It makes the air run extremely smoothly and my car runs on the highway @ fewer rpms now. I am running roughly 750 rpm less @ 70, than before.
...
TRoy J.
...
I would recommend it to everyone on this board to get an intake, and a midpipe, and a catback. It makes the air run extremely smoothly and my car runs on the highway @ fewer rpms now. I am running roughly 750 rpm less @ 70, than before.
...
TRoy J.
04-22-2004, 07:17 PM
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I guess Mr. TRoy J isn't quite such an expert on gearing as he is on brake installs for Ferrari Maranellos and BMW M3's. But he still knows how to drive on the track! Don't tell him that slotted and drilled rotors and larger brakes are much less a factor in stopping distance than the grip of the tires...
04-24-2004, 10:24 PM
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Okay, I am back finally back on the site (I was uber-busy for the last week). In regards to "changing gears", I didn't do that. I was merely saying that my car drives at lower rpm's going 70 on the highway, compaired to stock. I suspect that this is due to the intake and midpipe (more air coming in, and less restriction going out). I didn't say anything about changing gears.
When driving on cruise @ 70 mph, I was at 3100 rpm. I am now roughly close to 2750 rpm. Dunno what else more to explain regarding that.
And Icemastr, I know that tires play a huge role in stopping distances. I am getting HRE wheels (undecided on which style) and Michellin Pilot Sport 2 tires (245 front, 285 rear). This will even more help my car stop better than our crappy stock re040's.
Troy J.
When driving on cruise @ 70 mph, I was at 3100 rpm. I am now roughly close to 2750 rpm. Dunno what else more to explain regarding that.
And Icemastr, I know that tires play a huge role in stopping distances. I am getting HRE wheels (undecided on which style) and Michellin Pilot Sport 2 tires (245 front, 285 rear). This will even more help my car stop better than our crappy stock re040's.
Troy J.
04-24-2004, 10:34 PM
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You missed the point, the changing gear stuff was sarcastic. It is physically impossible for your car to be driving at the same speed in the same gear at a different RPM unless you did change that stuff. Power mods will get you through the rev range faster, but they don't change gear ratios!
jds
jds
04-27-2004, 09:48 PM
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Im sorry this is off topic, but it reffers to the origonal post.
I dont understand how an intake can effect the speed you shift.
In fact I dont really think its possible. Maybe it was because there was a change in the powerband, or something...but an intake should not affect your shifting.
I dont understand how an intake can effect the speed you shift.
In fact I dont really think its possible. Maybe it was because there was a change in the powerband, or something...but an intake should not affect your shifting.
04-27-2004, 11:23 PM
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Originally posted by JeupRX-8
I think that the MAF sensor was screwed up @ first becuase of the differant air consumption. The computer just didn't like the air, it is what similar people have had with their "hesitation" during shifting.
Troy J.
I think that the MAF sensor was screwed up @ first becuase of the differant air consumption. The computer just didn't like the air, it is what similar people have had with their "hesitation" during shifting.
Troy J.
But even so its not really affecting the shifting itself, but I understand what your saying now.
04-28-2004, 01:25 PM
#25
As to intakes causing odd shifting patterns... There is actually a TSB/RI on some GM's for this...
Owners of some 2003 Hummer H2s may experience lack or power, transmission will not upshift, or an erratic shift or stumble.
TIP: Check for an aftermarket air cleaner installed on the vehicle.
Some aftermarket air cleaners pull air directly from the underhood area of the vehicle at a higher temperature than the OEM airbox. The increase in temperature can cause erroneous readings from the MAF sensor, causing the above concerns. If an aftermarket air cleaner is discovered, reinstall the OEM equipment and re-evaluate.
Follow all SI related diagnostics if an OEM air cleaner box is installed and the vehicle still exhibits these conditions.
Taken from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Basically in quick summary...the short ram intakes (which may be drawing a good portion of air from the engine compartment) can actually draw in hotter air then the stock airboxes do...(Aka your performance actually gets worse).
Those big *** plastic boxes do do one thing...they help protect the inital intake charge from heat soak. If anyone of you have a can scanner you can easily check your intake air temps with a stock configuration, and then with a short ram (or K&N in this case). On the Mazda 6's at least, the stock airboxes had near ambient temps'...the short rams were considerably higher. (Almost 2x-3x as high)
As for cross-drilled bling-a-thon rotors....
The only time you see a performance increase going to these type of rotors is...
1) They are replacing older/worn OEM equipment.
2) The magazine doing the testing changes the tire/wheel for the second set of rotors. (Usually because the stock wheels don't fit over the aftermarket rotor/calipers).
3) In the case of 2, your actually seeing the benefit from better tires, not bling bling rotors.
4) Severely wet conditions. (Which is the main "reasoning" that some brake companies sell the rotors under).
If you ever replaced OEM rotors with cross drilled ones, did a comparison, then replaced the cross drilled with BRAND NEW OEM rotors...you'd see the loss in performance (as well as the pad eating goodness) of the super bling cross-drilled.
The general argument for cross-drilled rotors seems to be..."They help get rid of heat".
a) Air is less effective then metal at disappating and absorbing heat.
b) Cross-drilling reduces the mass/metal of a rotor.
Enjoy the taste of logic...mmm mmm good.
Here's a nice article on brakes and common myths surrounding them.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...d=19&Itemid=32
Owners of some 2003 Hummer H2s may experience lack or power, transmission will not upshift, or an erratic shift or stumble.
TIP: Check for an aftermarket air cleaner installed on the vehicle.
Some aftermarket air cleaners pull air directly from the underhood area of the vehicle at a higher temperature than the OEM airbox. The increase in temperature can cause erroneous readings from the MAF sensor, causing the above concerns. If an aftermarket air cleaner is discovered, reinstall the OEM equipment and re-evaluate.
Follow all SI related diagnostics if an OEM air cleaner box is installed and the vehicle still exhibits these conditions.
Taken from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Basically in quick summary...the short ram intakes (which may be drawing a good portion of air from the engine compartment) can actually draw in hotter air then the stock airboxes do...(Aka your performance actually gets worse).
Those big *** plastic boxes do do one thing...they help protect the inital intake charge from heat soak. If anyone of you have a can scanner you can easily check your intake air temps with a stock configuration, and then with a short ram (or K&N in this case). On the Mazda 6's at least, the stock airboxes had near ambient temps'...the short rams were considerably higher. (Almost 2x-3x as high)
As for cross-drilled bling-a-thon rotors....
The only time you see a performance increase going to these type of rotors is...
1) They are replacing older/worn OEM equipment.
2) The magazine doing the testing changes the tire/wheel for the second set of rotors. (Usually because the stock wheels don't fit over the aftermarket rotor/calipers).
3) In the case of 2, your actually seeing the benefit from better tires, not bling bling rotors.
4) Severely wet conditions. (Which is the main "reasoning" that some brake companies sell the rotors under).
If you ever replaced OEM rotors with cross drilled ones, did a comparison, then replaced the cross drilled with BRAND NEW OEM rotors...you'd see the loss in performance (as well as the pad eating goodness) of the super bling cross-drilled.
The general argument for cross-drilled rotors seems to be..."They help get rid of heat".
a) Air is less effective then metal at disappating and absorbing heat.
b) Cross-drilling reduces the mass/metal of a rotor.
Enjoy the taste of logic...mmm mmm good.
Here's a nice article on brakes and common myths surrounding them.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...d=19&Itemid=32
Last edited by crossbow; 04-28-2004 at 01:29 PM.