Mazsport Cooling mod - does it work ?
Was about to send off an order to purchase this mod but before I did I thought I would do some testing .
With scanalyser hooked up I went for a drive over the hill . This is a steep hill that I take mostly in 3rd gear at around 6000 rpm . Day was hot - 28deg C (82F) . with stock fan control I'm seeing cooling temps up as high as 101C (214F) . So then I turn the fans on manually so they stay on (at slow speed) and try it again . From what I've read here about the Mazsport Mod it turn the fans on at slow speed at a lower temp so turning them on and leaving them on should yeild the same result - right ? I was expecting to see a dramatic improvement as many here have the mod & say it works . To my surprise I found no difference - still goes up to 101C just as quick . Have I missed something about how the mod works or does the mod only work for more moderate conditions ? |
mazsport mod turns both fans on at full speed at around 190 degrees. I think they stay on till temp is 180 degrees.
Just lazy driving on the highway, and some stop and go traffic, I'll easily reach 205 degree temps (when stock), with the mod installed, temps are usually about 185. No question that it works. |
Originally Posted by mysql101
mazsport mod turns both fans on at full speed
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Is this 'mod' equivalent to getting a FC thermoswitch for the FD? FC turns on fans @ 95 deg C FD @ 108 deg C. Cost is ~$50.00
Has anyone researched if there is an alternate thermoswitch for the RX-8? Or even converting as was done previously with the miata thermoswitch to FD? Laters! Edgardo Details on FC thermoswitch for FD: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=447606 |
Originally Posted by Brettus
this is what I was confused about - I thought Scott said somewhere that it only operated the first stage of cooling (both on slow)
The only problem with it is that my car seems unable to keep up with the current draw. I ended up plugging in only one of the cooling fan fuses, and using a stock one for the other. My idle problems (stalling due to rpm dropping and voltage dropping) have almost gone away. Cooling is still better than stock, but not as nice as it was with both fans operating on full. I do not this this problem is CAUSED by the cooling mod, but rather a side effect of something else, such as the batt/alternator being unable to keep up. |
thanks for that mysql101
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Does anyone else with the mod has the same problem as Mysql101? ^^
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There are people with idle problems without this mod, so ....
For example: http://flrx8club.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=31218 |
I was one of the first people to have this installed. Works great! I'm rock-steady at 190* now and remember being right around 215* beforehand.
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I've had this mod for some time now. Definitely works! My temps used to average around 212 deg. Now the temps usually between 170 and 180.
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No, actually both are not on full noise. Both on at ~90c yes, but there still is a more aggressive stage right before you cook the water jacket seals. |
did the cooler coolant temps also lower the oil temps any? we really need a 180 thermostat also.
olddragger |
Originally Posted by Brettus
hmmm - just found this quote from Scott ..... CONFUSING !
yeah, it might have higher settings. you don't want the engine too cool. Around 180 degrees is good. btw, I can replicate the idle issue with just my headlights sometimes. So I'm very sure it's unrelated. This weekend I'll hook up a friend's 800 CCA batt to my car and test to see if it's just a batt problem. This is off topic, but anyone know if there's any issues with doing that (higher CCA batt)? |
I just installed this mod 3 days ago on my 2004 Rx-8 and I must say this kit really does the car well. The A/C feels alot colder, the car turns on faster and after a drive the fans stay on for about 15 seconds after the car has been turned off. I would really recommend this mod.
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well - I did some more testing - this time with the fans on full .
Same hill - slightly cooler day (26 deg C) . Found that The car stayed cooler for longer but still ended up at 101 deg C by the top of the hill . My feeling - mod is not as great as I had been led to believe but does help up to a point . |
Originally Posted by Brettus
well - I did some more testing - this time with the fans on full .
Same hill - slightly cooler day (26 deg C) . Found that The car stayed cooler for longer but still ended up at 101 deg C by the top of the hill . My feeling - mod is not as great as I had been led to believe but does help up to a point . If you are pushing the car so hard (with hot temps) that you exceed the radiator's capacity, your engine will heat up eventually even with the fans turned on early. If you do this type of driving a lot and want to keep the water temps down, you are going to need a larger capacity radiator as well. |
Install DIY?
ive searched the forum and couldnt find the install directions with pictures. does anyone have the link? i looked under durable cooling mods and the link is dead :crying:
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no instructions on this site because it's on the mazsport site and he ships the mod with install directions too.
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it amounts to cutting your coolant line, putting the hardware in the cut line, plugging in the fuses and making sure it's grounded. Should take 15 minutes for a first time user.
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Installed when this mod first came out. Running NA-hi-flow cat, RB intake and "No Prob in sunny FLA!
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thanks, can anyone take a picture of how the finished install looks like to make sure i'm going to do the right thing XD! Thanks lot
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ecxel
thanks, can anyone take a picture of how the finished install looks like to make sure i'm going to do the right thing XD! Thanks lot
hope that covers it.. btw, the red wire has nothing to do with the mod.... pretend it is not there. beers :beer: |
I don't get how that works - the connection is not even in a line that flows water as far as I can see . Isn't that just the return tube to the header tank ?
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I don't get how that works - the connection is not even in a line that flows water as far as I can see . Isn't that just the return tube to the header tank ?
wow the site is moving again... pm coming.. beers:beer: |
Originally Posted by swoope
here you go..
hope that covers it.. btw, the red wire has nothing to do with the mod.... pretend it is not there. beers :beer: |
whats the cost before shipping from Mazsport, ~$210? I think thats worth 20 degrees F for the stupid kind of driving I do. Can anyone suggest a hi-capacity radiator for the rx8, if there is one. And what is the best heavy duty cat people are using?
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it's $150, and about $10 shipping.
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Its probably worth it just for autocross. Sitting in the paddock and such...
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Does this help with AC temps in hot climates? I live in AL where it gets hot and humid. When I'm in stop & go traffic the AC struggles to blow cool air. With summer around the corner I'd buy this mod if it helps.
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Kind of a little off topic, but I've been having some intermittent idle roughness ever since installing my cooling mod. The car had a rough idle when I first purchased (w/o the Mazsport mod) but I had pretty much resolved that issue with a nice grounding kit and the DIY crank case breather mod. Now, when the Mazsport device kicks the fans full on at idle my rpms drop to the first line below the 1,000 mark and the cabin vibrates substantially more (with the sun roof open I even get an annoying rattle occasionally). Anyone else had this occur? Could a faulty engine mount be causing the extra vibration when the extra load from the fans goes through the system?
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Originally Posted by peterlemonjello
Does this help with AC temps in hot climates? I live in AL where it gets hot and humid. When I'm in stop & go traffic the AC struggles to blow cool air. With summer around the corner I'd buy this mod if it helps.
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Originally Posted by TimzSI
Its probably worth it just for autocross. Sitting in the paddock and such...
When you are at cruising/highway speeds, the natural airflow pretty much keeps the temps down with little need for the fans - unless of course you are running the car hard and/or are in very hot weather - then it helps provide additional cooling under those circumstances as well. |
Originally Posted by Zielritter
Kind of a little off topic, but I've been having some intermittent idle roughness ever since installing my cooling mod. The car had a rough idle when I first purchased (w/o the Mazsport mod) but I had pretty much resolved that issue with a nice grounding kit and the DIY crank case breather mod. Now, when the Mazsport device kicks the fans full on at idle my rpms drop to the first line below the 1,000 mark and the cabin vibrates substantially more (with the sun roof open I even get an annoying rattle occasionally). Anyone else had this occur? Could a faulty engine mount be causing the extra vibration when the extra load from the fans goes through the system?
I thought it was just me, but I've spoken with about 3 others who have similar problems. Car runs fine when moving, but at idle, the rpms and batt voltage drop to the point where sometimes the car can stall. I recently installed a brand new red top with 750 CCA. It didn't help. I also added in a new breather to the intake manifold so it gets more air at idle (one way check valve so I don't lose boost), it didn't help much, if any. Scott spent a while trying to tune it out (int-x), but that didn't fix it either. What I was able to do was install one of the stock fuses, so that only one fan operated by the cooling mod... this completely stopped the idle issues, but it also doesn't cool nearly as well. Temps were allowed to reach 200 degrees again. Still better than stock, but 2 fans are better than one. At this point I'm out of ideas on how to fix it. Is the alternator able to keep up with the loan of two fans at near max rpm at idle? |
Originally Posted by mysql101
Yes. The idle goes to crap whenever the fans kick on.
Scott spent a while trying to tune it out (int-x), but that didn't fix it either. Your and others idle issues could have something to do with the int-x (or other engine mgmt solutions) not compensating for the extra alternator load when the fans come on. The stock ECU will adjust the fuel to maintain proper idle when extra loads are added such as more alternator load or Air Conditioning. I wonder how many out there with idle issues are using another engine management system and if this possible lack of load compensation could be what is causing the sensitivity to the electrical surge from the fan startup. If so, adjusting the idle up a little could help reduce this sensitivity (if the int-x will let you do this) |
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
The more idling and city driving (stop and go) you do, the better this mod is as it helps keep engine (and engine bay) temps down when you do not have any (or much) naturally forced airflow through the radiator.
When you are at cruising/highway speeds, the natural airflow pretty much keeps the temps down with little need for the fans - unless of course you are running the car hard and/or are in very hot weather - then it helps provide additional cooling under those circumstances as well. Jax your in Fredericksburg? I'm stafford born and raised. But don't let that fool you, I know my Rotaries, haha. Anyway, June-September can get pretty hot in DC, esp. on daily drives to work. :/ So, I think this cooling mod is a must. |
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
My Intake (added K&N filter) and Engine Management are stock and I only notice a very slight bump in the idle RPM when the fans come on (both at same time) - not rough or approaching stalling or anything like that.
Your and others idle issues could have something to do with the int-x (or other engine mgmt solutions) not compensating for the extra alternator load when the fans come on. The stock ECU will adjust the fuel to maintain proper idle when extra loads are added such as more alternator load or Air Conditioning. I wonder how many out there with idle issues are using another engine management system and if this possible lack of load compensation could be what is causing the sensitivity to the electrical surge from the fan startup. If so, adjusting the idle up a little could help reduce this sensitivity (if the int-x will let you do this) I also have the AP underdrive pulley which could help in this instance by reducing the pull on the alternator at idle . My piggyback ems allows the stock idle characteristics to be maintained. |
Originally Posted by TimzSI
Jax your in Fredericksburg? I'm stafford born and raised. But don't let that fool you, I know my Rotaries, haha.
Anyway, June-September can get pretty hot in DC, esp. on daily drives to work. :/ So, I think this cooling mod is a must. Totally agree on the heat here in the summer - we truly have all 4 seasons here and it's like Florida or Texas in the summer months here. |
Originally Posted by Zielritter
Kind of a little off topic, but I've been having some intermittent idle roughness ever since installing my cooling mod. The car had a rough idle when I first purchased (w/o the Mazsport mod) but I had pretty much resolved that issue with a nice grounding kit and the DIY crank case breather mod. Now, when the Mazsport device kicks the fans full on at idle my rpms drop to the first line below the 1,000 mark and the cabin vibrates substantially more (with the sun roof open I even get an annoying rattle occasionally). Anyone else had this occur? Could a faulty engine mount be causing the extra vibration when the extra load from the fans goes through the system?
yes, and make sure you reset your ac amplifier. beers :beer: |
Originally Posted by swoope
yes, and make sure you reset your ac amplifier.
beers :beer: |
Doesn't RacingBeat's PCM Flash already offer better cooling? At that price point, it seems the RB Flash is a better deal, unless I'm missing something...
http://www.racingbeat.com/PCM.htm |
RB reflash costs twice as much and gets erased anytime your dealer reflashes your car. It's not an ideal mod for some of us, especially those of us who aren't using the factory PCM to control fuel.
Also, what do you mean by "better" cooling? Either route will use the OEM radiator fans. |
Originally Posted by Zielritter
How does one go about doing this reset? Is it essentially the soft reset with the pedal taps?
beers :beer: |
Originally Posted by mysql101
RB reflash costs twice as much and gets erased anytime your dealer reflashes your car. It's not an ideal mod for some of us, especially those of us who aren't using the factory PCM to control fuel.
Originally Posted by mysql101
Also, what do you mean by "better" cooling? Either route will use the OEM radiator fans.
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I don't understand why there are not pictures on this site or Mazsport's site. Seems like it would be easy to put up a bunch of pics with the steps.
Brettus, you have the mazsport cooler mod and AP pulley, so do you have any problems with your idle? |
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mysql101,
I am having same problems. Any luck on the solution? Regards.
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 1794957)
Yes. The idle goes to crap whenever the fans kick on.
I thought it was just me, but I've spoken with about 3 others who have similar problems. Car runs fine when moving, but at idle, the rpms and batt voltage drop to the point where sometimes the car can stall. I recently installed a brand new red top with 750 CCA. It didn't help. I also added in a new breather to the intake manifold so it gets more air at idle (one way check valve so I don't lose boost), it didn't help much, if any. Scott spent a while trying to tune it out (int-x), but that didn't fix it either. What I was able to do was install one of the stock fuses, so that only one fan operated by the cooling mod... this completely stopped the idle issues, but it also doesn't cool nearly as well. Temps were allowed to reach 200 degrees again. Still better than stock, but 2 fans are better than one. At this point I'm out of ideas on how to fix it. Is the alternator able to keep up with the loan of two fans at near max rpm at idle? |
yes, I did this, which has prevented my car from stalling:
http://rotaryinsider.com/rx8-92.html I want to stress that I had no issues prior to the interceptor-x being used on my car, and that without the cooling mod the int-x works fine too. So it looks like a situation that only happens with the two together. Mazsport's website has a new item listed that controls the idle, so maybe if the idle is set to 1,000 rpm everything will function nicely. |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 1931373)
yes, I did this, which has prevented my car from stalling:
http://rotaryinsider.com/rx8-92.html I want to stress that I had no issues prior to the interceptor-x being used on my car, and that without the cooling mod the int-x works fine too. So it looks like a situation that only happens with the two together. Mazsport's website has a new item listed that controls the idle, so maybe if the idle is set to 1,000 rpm everything will function nicely. |
yeah, you'll be fine.
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