FI- complete package?
#1
FI- complete package?
With all the new FI kits looking like they're in their finishing stages, or at least some will be shown soon at SS9, I've been trying to figure out which one to get, but what I'm unsure of is what I'll need outside of the kit itself. What parts should I expect to need to replace such as clutch and tires? And I'm sure some parts can handle the hp better than others, so at what hp should these different things be replaced? Thanks for any help
#3
Well, that all depends upon many variables. First of all, how much hp are u looking to make will determine what other parts u need to replace. If ur looking to make Greddy ish power figures, the clutch and flywheel are not essential but it definitely will not hurt to get a stronger clutch for longevity issues. If ur gonna be goin to the strip u need sum wider tires, which means sum wider wheels. I know alot of people have a 15 or 16 inch set of wide rims they use only on drag days, so that's sumthing to look into. U may want a new oil pan and catch can, a BOV of ur choice, and a nice catback and midpipe always compliment a turbo'd set up. I dunno if engine managment comes with the kits ur looking into or not, so that is definitely sumthing worth researching. I think the kit in (motortrend?) was not gonna ship with an ems so u'd either have to go with an hks standalone that they used or an IntX or whatever engine managment u desire out of pocket seperately as well. Just sum food for thought, hope this helps.
#4
Originally Posted by Aseras
wait 6 more months and you'll find out whcih kits are worth getting, and which kits blow your engine, and what breaks with what kits.
I have a list of most things you'll want with the greddy turbo kit, but much of it applies to any FI kit you get:
http://tyrannical.org/page-16
#5
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man i wish it was six months.... only thing i hear about is greddy... I'm still waiting for someone to come out with a procharger super charger (IN the states)... guess its time to go bump the dna motorsports thread.
#6
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It all depends on how much HP you're shooting for. With the Greddy kit you can get by with just the kit and some new engine management. The following mods are a good idea though to increase reliability, especially if you intend to increase the boost.
Catch can- Excessive oil in combustion chamber lowers effective octane rating
Turbo timer - Saves turbo
CAI - Lowers intake temp
Fuel pump - Fuel pump reliability is essential to maintain a consistent AFR
P1 injector upgrades - IMO these are two small to maintain proper driveability and boost transition.
EMS - Obvouis
AFR gauge - Most important thing on this list. Don't startup that turbocharged beast without it.
Boost gauge - Obvious
Radiator - Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
Fan mod -Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
BOV- Preserve turbo life
EGT -Too high exhaust temps can damage engine internals. IMO it is not as essential as other items on this list though.
Water temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
Oil temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
A clutch probably isn't a bad idea. But, I say just wait till the stock one fails. Why replace it prematurely. I'm putting around 300whp on the stock clutch.
Again none of those are required especially at the stock 5-7psi stock boost setting around 240whp. However, if you plan to increase the boost on the Greddy kit, or especially if you go with something like the PTP or Mazsport kit I would highly recommend it.
You want to do everything you can to monitor and control temperatures and AFR. Blown engines are not fun, FI is risky enough. Do everything you can to mitigate that risk.
Catch can- Excessive oil in combustion chamber lowers effective octane rating
Turbo timer - Saves turbo
CAI - Lowers intake temp
Fuel pump - Fuel pump reliability is essential to maintain a consistent AFR
P1 injector upgrades - IMO these are two small to maintain proper driveability and boost transition.
EMS - Obvouis
AFR gauge - Most important thing on this list. Don't startup that turbocharged beast without it.
Boost gauge - Obvious
Radiator - Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
Fan mod -Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
BOV- Preserve turbo life
EGT -Too high exhaust temps can damage engine internals. IMO it is not as essential as other items on this list though.
Water temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
Oil temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
A clutch probably isn't a bad idea. But, I say just wait till the stock one fails. Why replace it prematurely. I'm putting around 300whp on the stock clutch.
Again none of those are required especially at the stock 5-7psi stock boost setting around 240whp. However, if you plan to increase the boost on the Greddy kit, or especially if you go with something like the PTP or Mazsport kit I would highly recommend it.
You want to do everything you can to monitor and control temperatures and AFR. Blown engines are not fun, FI is risky enough. Do everything you can to mitigate that risk.
Last edited by rkostolni; 10-17-2006 at 07:23 PM.
#7
1935 lbs. FTW!
Originally Posted by rkostolni
It all depends on how much HP you're shooting for. With the Greddy kit you can get by with just the kit and some new engine management. The following mods are a good idea though to increase reliability, especially if you intend to increase the boost.
Catch can- Excessive oil in combustion chamber lowers effective octane rating
Turbo timer - Saves turbo
CAI - Lowers intake temp
Fuel pump - Fuel pump reliability is essential to maintain a consistent AFR
P1 injector upgrades - IMO these are two small to maintain proper driveability and boost transition.
EMS - Obvouis
AFR gauge - Most important thing on this list. Don't startup that turbocharged beast without it.
Boost gauge - Obvious
Radiator - Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
Fan mod -Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
BOV- Preserve turbo life
EGT -Too high exhaust temps can damage engine internals. IMO it is not as essential as other items on this list though.
Water temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
Oil temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
A clutch probably isn't a bad idea. But, I say just wait till the stock one fails. Why replace it prematurely. I'm putting around 300whp on the stock clutch.
Again none of those are required especially at the stock 5-7psi stock boost setting around 240whp. However, if you plan to increase the boost on the Greddy kit, or especially if you go with something like the PTP or Mazsport kit I would highly recommend it.
You want to do everything you can to monitor and control temperatures and AFR. Blown engines are not fun, FI is risky enough. Do everything you can to mitigate that risk.
Catch can- Excessive oil in combustion chamber lowers effective octane rating
Turbo timer - Saves turbo
CAI - Lowers intake temp
Fuel pump - Fuel pump reliability is essential to maintain a consistent AFR
P1 injector upgrades - IMO these are two small to maintain proper driveability and boost transition.
EMS - Obvouis
AFR gauge - Most important thing on this list. Don't startup that turbocharged beast without it.
Boost gauge - Obvious
Radiator - Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
Fan mod -Keeping coolant temps down decreases chance of ping
BOV- Preserve turbo life
EGT -Too high exhaust temps can damage engine internals. IMO it is not as essential as other items on this list though.
Water temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
Oil temp gauge - Maintain proper temps at all times with a rotary.
A clutch probably isn't a bad idea. But, I say just wait till the stock one fails. Why replace it prematurely. I'm putting around 300whp on the stock clutch.
Again none of those are required especially at the stock 5-7psi stock boost setting around 240whp. However, if you plan to increase the boost on the Greddy kit, or especially if you go with something like the PTP or Mazsport kit I would highly recommend it.
You want to do everything you can to monitor and control temperatures and AFR. Blown engines are not fun, FI is risky enough. Do everything you can to mitigate that risk.
Any idea on what the greddy kit makes at 7 or 9 psi? What's the safest daily drivable boost pressure you can run on the Renesis? I'd like to give my 8 a kick in the pants (around the 105+mph 1/4 mile trap range) and the greddy kit seems to be very cost effective. In fact I think there's a used one on sale here for 1300.
#8
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It is typical to see varying HP ratings at the same boost pressure for different turbos because each one has its own efficiency ranges. The more efficiently a turbo operates, the less it will heat the air. Cooler air is more dense, and hence makes more power. Mazsports turbo kit is odd though. Those are some impressive numbers he's making. Technically, even at 100% adiabatic efficiency, he shouldn't be making that kind of power, so I don't know what else he's doing.
As far as the Greddy kit goes, I run 9psi all day long. A few are running 10-12psi on the Greddy kit. With the mods listed in my sig I'm right around 300whp. Not enough time has gone by to determine what is "safe", but I wouldn't run over 10psi daily, but that's just me.
As far as the Greddy kit goes, I run 9psi all day long. A few are running 10-12psi on the Greddy kit. With the mods listed in my sig I'm right around 300whp. Not enough time has gone by to determine what is "safe", but I wouldn't run over 10psi daily, but that's just me.
Last edited by rkostolni; 10-17-2006 at 07:42 PM.
#9
Power!!
The other thing to consider is whether or not you want to change your final drive ratio. The stock 4.43 rear end is pretty short and some people are finding 1st gear almost useless after installing a turbo. It may make for a better performing more drivable car to go with the 4.10 rear end. It would potentially make the car perform better as a daily driver and still have the performance. Of course for track you may want to keep the 4.43 for maximum acceleration.
#10
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I completely disagree with doing that. Just get stickier tires and you will be fine. I would never consider changing the final drive. I'd be surprised if you find anyone who actually has a boosted 8 around 300whp that would even consider doing this.
Last edited by rkostolni; 10-17-2006 at 09:24 PM.
#12
thanks for replies all. I'm not actually too sure what kit I'd get and that's what would decide how much hp I'd get for the most part. I was just trying to get an idea of what each kit would cost once I added in other things. Thanks for the help
Edit: I've been looking into the axial flow supercharger but I havnt actually seen a price or any final numbers so I havnt settled on that yet
Edit: I've been looking into the axial flow supercharger but I havnt actually seen a price or any final numbers so I havnt settled on that yet
Last edited by 8 Maniac; 10-17-2006 at 11:36 PM.
#13
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I'm interested in the Procharger Centrifugial supercharger. It just seems like a great way to go as opposed to having extra tubing/heat in an already hot engine compartment. ESPECIALLY if they are really getting the numbers DNA has up on their website. Plus the self contained lubrication of the procharger....
*sniff* this would be so awesome to have, they're saying it produces right under 280 hp, and thats aussie hp counting too (which i believe is lower than ours).
I'm honestly thinking of getting the generic C-2 and the universal kit... and kinda winging it... Gee how hard could it be? (impossible)
Check-it --> http://www.dnamotorsport.com/ProChar...8_Kit/RX-8.htm
*sniff* this would be so awesome to have, they're saying it produces right under 280 hp, and thats aussie hp counting too (which i believe is lower than ours).
I'm honestly thinking of getting the generic C-2 and the universal kit... and kinda winging it... Gee how hard could it be? (impossible)
Check-it --> http://www.dnamotorsport.com/ProChar...8_Kit/RX-8.htm
#14
Power!!
Originally Posted by rkostolni
I completely disagree with doing that. Just get stickier tires and you will be fine. I would never consider changing the final drive. I'd be surprised if you find anyone who actually has a boosted 8 around 300whp that would even consider doing this.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...highlight=4.10
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