What can I tell you, just doing what I can to get a little hp. Actually a big part of it is in anticipation of possible FI. Freeing up the exhaust with the hi-flow cat & RB mufflers. On the positive side I did get hp across the board & about 10 hp on the high end. I will agree though the flywheel seems to be the best money spent. Acceleration form 1st, 2nd, & 3rd is much better.

 

Wait till you get your stage 1/2! It makes your eight a different car.

Vince

 

i have all the upgrades fanman has (thanks for the post...great), except i have the cz 1.1 but have not tuned it.

questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?

 

I'd bet that you actually gained more peak HP than your dyno shows - or in other words, your dyno run does NOT show you real values. Like 95% of the dyno runs that get posted here - look at the high rpm section, from 102 mph + on your graph. Notice how your 'after' run gets jittery and stops increasing? That's "safe mode" in the ECU pulling timing and richening the mixture, because it's detected a problem (rear wheels turning, front wheels stationary, high rpm and full throttle). Your 'before' run shows the same effect, but to a lesser extent.

If you had unbolted the rear wheel speed/ABS sensors and tied them back away from the wheels (not disconnected them), you would have probably got more accurate peak numbers that would show a greater increase. As it is, the "safe mode" is hiding part of your increased power. How do you know how much you really increased, with a, um, useless dyno plot like that?

Regards,
Gordon

 

Are you using stage 1 or 2 and how does it run?

Vince

 

You cannot tune your CZ without the canscan. While you can change the AFR map, just how that change is effecting your AFR mixtures is unknown. Are you running too lean? Are you still too rich? There isn't any way to tell without th canscan unit.

Read more here: http://tyrannical.org/page-15

 

Well gordon, I will try that next time I go in. My mechanic told me not to worry as much about the peak hp, as the "gain/increase" from before to after, but if you are saying the ABS sensor is creating issues next time I will have him unbolt the ABS sensors for a before (and see if there is a big hp difference), and after I do the Can Zoomer unit.

 

Yup, Canzoomer was one of the first to document the interference from the ECU for dyno testing and came up with the "tie back the ABS sensors" technique. Even then, you have to be careful to do the dyno pull in less than 10 seconds of WOT or you trigger a code and safe mode.

Regards,
Gordon

 

Is there a trouble code for safe mode?

 

So is there a CEL associated with any of these mods? I'd like to do more to my car, but I can't take another light shining on my dash at night.

 

just a though regarding the ABS sensors on the dyno. Why couldn't someone just make a cable that duplicates the signal pulse from the tone rings on the front wheels to make the ABS sensors pick up a signal telling them that the front wheels are turning at the same speed as the rears?

I'm sure it sounds simple but in reality it is very tought to do. Please don't kill me if this has been suggested before.

Sorry to hijack your thread.

 

It has been suggested before and it didnt work out quite as easy as advertised. At one point canzoomer had talked about soem hardware to get around it, but he's been silent on the boards long enough that I doubt we'll see anything from it.

 

What saddens me is you guys are talking about 1 digit horsepower gains and nobody is pissed off . . . . .

This motor is so, so amazing, all that I see wrong with it is the exhaust ports are a little restrictive, but emissions are a lot stricter these days . . . oh, and it gets crap gas mileage.

How much are we spending for this? $1000? $2000?

Save up, drop a good $4000 on a custom turbo setup . . . stick a huge turbo on there, the heat from the rotary will spool it up fast. My favorite is the GT3540R. I'm sure it can hold 6 pounds of boost on stock seals, with a rebuild probably 15 or more. You'll be looking at dynos in the 300s.

 

again - read the f'in chart. He gained as much as 15hp in some areas of the powerband. 15hp gain is 15hp, no matter WHERE the increase.

 

I have done this in anticipation of FI later down the road (if reliable). In getting a hi-flow cat, and an aftermarket exhaust this will open up the exhaust & decrease back pressure (good thing with turbos). Also, getting the exhaust was not all about getting a few hp increase, it was also about getting a better sound. Which the RB is much throatier than stock.

I will dyno with the ABS sensors pulled back next time. I'm probably going to get a Can Zoomer unit in the meantime, while waiting to see if FI is reliable. I would seriously consider the SFR/SSR turbo unit, Greddy, or maybe the Blitz. Can't wait to see the performance of these kits.

 

Yes, its still a measly 15 hp gain.

You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.

I mean, admittedly, the car is a lot of fun with the exhaust, it revs a bit freer (I used to work for Mazda so I've driven the MazdaSpeed - basically a body kit with some rims and an exhaust), but the car still really suffers from a lack of go.

 

Well the days of big hp gains from exhaust on nonturbo cars is over. Sure if it was an FD you could pick up 30 or 40 horses from a free flowing exhaust. But I'd say 15 hp max gain is pretty darn good for this car. Plus it looks likes it gains across the power band. You could skip the exhaust and go FI first but eventually your going to change the exhaust if you do. Might as well do the exhaust now, since FI is not readily available.

 

yeah! Damn PHYSICS getting in our way...

1.3L engines - small engines in general do NOT benefit like BIG engines do from mods. Want 50 hp from an exhaust? Buy a corvette.

 

50 hp-100hp from an air intake, pullies, hi-flow cat, and exhaust ? You must be kidding. Even in big engine Mustangs with intake, header, x pipe, & exhaust they were only getting 25 hp (Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords). Unless you have an SC, pullies are not going to give you additional lbs. of boost. (high hp gain). This is an NA engine. Not even Corvettes & Vipers would get 50 hp from these bolt ons. c'mon man, I understand how an RX7, or EVO ight get 50-100 hp from a full exhaust & boost management but these are not FI'ed engines. I have a Racing Beat catalog and they were showing a full exhaust (turbo back - headers, midpipe & exhaust) for a Turbo II was giving a 59 hp increase, but a cat back only exhaust system for the Turbo II's & last gen RX7 was "only" giving like 7 to 13 hp gains. Again I would be giggly for 13 hp gain from a cat back (instead of the 3 hp that we get), but no such thing as getting 50-100 hp on an NA engine from basic bolt ons.

 

i am using the stage 1.1 and i like it alot. i noticed an increase in performance but hear that the real improvements are in the tuning. i think in the spring i will explore that option.
my favorite upgrades to date ar e the flywheel from SR and hi flo cat from SR.
very fast car now.

 

thanks for the tip!
rudy

 

If stage one works you can move up to stage two and see a great improvement! Do you do have the USB cable?

Vince

 

Stage 1 was supposed to be plug and play, no tuning could be done.

stage 2 was stage 1 unit but tunable, and a high flow catback and straight pipe.

since stage 1.1 is tunable, you basically just need to work on your exhaust and tune your map to get "Stage 2"

 

Or do the simple thing and just load the stage two map.

 

stage 2 map is just a bit more aggressive than the stage 1, and i think they have more advance on the timing. You can still go far more aggressive than that map if you tune it properly, which is why everyone says you gotta tune it to get the power