Apexi fliter in stock box
#1
Apexi fliter in stock box
I have had this done for a while now and have been pleased with it.
Didn't want to post it up until I was certain there were not any unwanted side effects.
The raised squares inside the box kills a lot of the noise, a benefit for those that their cars are already loud enough or like would like to be stealth.
I noticed this type of filter gave better response and seemed to lean the air to fuel ratio a bit. Less popping exhaust.
Pieces I added were the Apexi dual funnel air filter 80mm, the flange and the Racing Beat air duct.
The stock intake pipe is 3.5" inside diameter.
The filter opening is 3.25" inside diameter this is just small enough so the pipe does not go inside the filter.
The Apexi filter is a dry type maintenance free. Seems to do a good job of trapping contaminants that go into the intake box.
I retained both screens in the intake pipe because they keep the idle smooth by straightening the air before the MAF (mass air flow) sensor takes a reading. This gives the sensor an advantage of being more consistent. I didn't see a benefit of changing out the plastic piping for the intake as it is less apt to heat soak than metal would.
I took the velocity horn off of the pipe inside of the intake box to fit the cone filter which has a type of velocity horn built into it (the top of the intake creates an inverted style velocity horn).
You can see I did some Dremel work on the outside of the box this is to relocate the Greddy oil catch can to the box.
Didn't want to post it up until I was certain there were not any unwanted side effects.
The raised squares inside the box kills a lot of the noise, a benefit for those that their cars are already loud enough or like would like to be stealth.
I noticed this type of filter gave better response and seemed to lean the air to fuel ratio a bit. Less popping exhaust.
Pieces I added were the Apexi dual funnel air filter 80mm, the flange and the Racing Beat air duct.
The stock intake pipe is 3.5" inside diameter.
The filter opening is 3.25" inside diameter this is just small enough so the pipe does not go inside the filter.
The Apexi filter is a dry type maintenance free. Seems to do a good job of trapping contaminants that go into the intake box.
I retained both screens in the intake pipe because they keep the idle smooth by straightening the air before the MAF (mass air flow) sensor takes a reading. This gives the sensor an advantage of being more consistent. I didn't see a benefit of changing out the plastic piping for the intake as it is less apt to heat soak than metal would.
I took the velocity horn off of the pipe inside of the intake box to fit the cone filter which has a type of velocity horn built into it (the top of the intake creates an inverted style velocity horn).
You can see I did some Dremel work on the outside of the box this is to relocate the Greddy oil catch can to the box.
#2
i've done the same thing, but to try it out i got a pepboys filter which i was actually impressed with. i have had an apexi air intake kit on a diff car and i'll say the apexi is a better filter. but for $23 i have no complaints. i did notice slight improvements. i only retained one screen and havent noticed any more poping or rougher idle than stock. its a quick and simple mod that everyone should do. the cool thing about the pep boys filter is that it has a reverse cone that looks like the apexi but it is filter mesh, so the air from the RB air duct is pushed right into that. who knows if it makes a difference but it seems good to me. I've had the pep boys filter for a few weeks now and it seems to be holding up. i may go w/ something alittle better later on, but for now i'm very pleased.
#3
That is a good point about the end of the filter being closed off.
I had the duct installed with a flat K&N fiilter and I noticed this filter gives better response and leans the AFR a bit.
The Revi K&N filter has a cap at the end also. I believe the inverted funnel is to help straighten the air as it goes into the pipe. Of course if the air is going straight in then it doesn't need to be straightened.
It is tough to find a universal Apexi filter for less than $60 but the reviews are very good on them. Some say they are the best.
I had the duct installed with a flat K&N fiilter and I noticed this filter gives better response and leans the AFR a bit.
The Revi K&N filter has a cap at the end also. I believe the inverted funnel is to help straighten the air as it goes into the pipe. Of course if the air is going straight in then it doesn't need to be straightened.
It is tough to find a universal Apexi filter for less than $60 but the reviews are very good on them. Some say they are the best.
#6
Originally Posted by gr8rx
whered you get that 4 point strut bar?
I bought it from a guy that had it imported from Japan.
http://revo-tune.jp/catalogue/list.php?category=4&ve_w=RX-8(SE3P)
(will have to cut and paste it into the browser).
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=10
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=136
#7
Originally Posted by swoope
nice job.
very outside / inside the box!
beers
very outside / inside the box!
beers
Can't say I was not inspired by someone that did a window on the stock box to show the cone filter.
I found this filter after reading reviews on oil and air filters.
This does a great job and is a dry type filter so it doesn't dirty up the MAF.
#11
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I seriously doubt that it leans out the AFR, if the MAF sees more air it's signal to the PCM simply adds more fuel
Do you know for certain that it is leaning out the mixture? I would do this if there is a performance gain or it stopped the popping.
#12
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I seriously doubt that it leans out the AFR, if the MAF sees more air it's signal to the PCM simply adds more fuel
#13
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I seriously doubt that it leans out the AFR, if the MAF sees more air it's signal to the PCM simply adds more fuel
It definitely popped less so I assumed it leaned it out. Could be that the MAF gets a better reading than the flat filter.
Doesn't the Revi lean the AFRs some?
I already had the RB duct on it so it was not the duct that changed anything.
A while after I did this I installed the CZ with the stage 2 map. That definitely leaned it out. I have to try to get the exhaust to pop. Almost as smooth as the Int-X (which has the ability to cut fuel when decelerating, with no load, above 2,000 RPMs).
#14
Originally Posted by alnielsen
I was thinking the same. With my catback, the car is popping everytime I letoff the throttle.
Do you know for certain that it is leaning out the mixture? I would do this if there is a performance gain or it stopped the popping.
Do you know for certain that it is leaning out the mixture? I would do this if there is a performance gain or it stopped the popping.
I am running a mid pipe and normally that would be popping all over the place like mad.
With the CZ stage 2 and this CAI setup, it doesn't.
#16
Originally Posted by Razz1
Nice. You removed one of the stock screens right?
Thought someone did a test to see if it would benefit and found it didn't after thinking it did at first and then realizing it was placebo.
I wanted to make sure that the idle didn't suffer and that I didn't change more than just the filter to see what the results would be of the conical filter.
I know the Revi only uses one but thought that was due to the design of the pipe.
#17
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Reviving an old thread....
Which parts are the pod filter and the flange? and is it a direct bolt? do you need anything else to fit the apexi pod filter in the oem airbox?
Can you confirm the part number needed from this site? http://www.apexi-usa.com/search_deta...&isUniversal=1
Thanks!
Which parts are the pod filter and the flange? and is it a direct bolt? do you need anything else to fit the apexi pod filter in the oem airbox?
Can you confirm the part number needed from this site? http://www.apexi-usa.com/search_deta...&isUniversal=1
Thanks!
#18
I <3 Sushi
iTrader: (21)
Yay, bump for an old thread!
I made my own intake and so far, my custom intake is equipped on four test cars They all seemed satisfied, having my stuff dyno on Tuesday.
EDIT: Also, on a side note, the apexi filter inside the stock box might hinder flow a bit. If you were to get a filter with an opening infront, something like a reverse cone on front, then that'll actually help, perhaps might even add 1 or 2 more horses due to the better flow
I made my own intake and so far, my custom intake is equipped on four test cars They all seemed satisfied, having my stuff dyno on Tuesday.
EDIT: Also, on a side note, the apexi filter inside the stock box might hinder flow a bit. If you were to get a filter with an opening infront, something like a reverse cone on front, then that'll actually help, perhaps might even add 1 or 2 more horses due to the better flow
Last edited by Spinning Sushi; 11-25-2007 at 06:30 AM.
#19
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I'm not doubting the quality of the apexi filters but I have reason to believe that these filters here would be better:
HKS Dome/Spider Filter
OR
Spectre Filter
The logic behind this is that the air comes in from the small hole on the stock air intake box and hits the top of the apexi filter which will considerably slow down the velocity of the incoming air. The air has to go around it before being straightened into the pipe. This is extra blockage and decreases the velocity of the air intake. With the two filters that I recommended, the air goes straight in and velocity will be greater than that of the apexi.
EDIT: If you look at the RB intake filter, it's similar to the apexi one... I know that RB put alot of research into developing their intake systems. It's just common sense that air will flow in better if there's an opening at the front of the intake filter, maybe it was hard for RB to find a supplier for their filters? Well, in anycase, I hope this helps
HKS Dome/Spider Filter
OR
Spectre Filter
The logic behind this is that the air comes in from the small hole on the stock air intake box and hits the top of the apexi filter which will considerably slow down the velocity of the incoming air. The air has to go around it before being straightened into the pipe. This is extra blockage and decreases the velocity of the air intake. With the two filters that I recommended, the air goes straight in and velocity will be greater than that of the apexi.
EDIT: If you look at the RB intake filter, it's similar to the apexi one... I know that RB put alot of research into developing their intake systems. It's just common sense that air will flow in better if there's an opening at the front of the intake filter, maybe it was hard for RB to find a supplier for their filters? Well, in anycase, I hope this helps
Last edited by Spinning Sushi; 11-25-2007 at 07:25 AM.
#20
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The engine bay looks great and the strut bar is awesome, too. Revolution is a small yet very respected company on rotaries, they also sell a turbo kit for the 8!
I have an R-Magic panel filter and I like it a lot, but it's mostly a matter of sound and not performance imo.
I have an R-Magic panel filter and I like it a lot, but it's mostly a matter of sound and not performance imo.
#21
I used the Apexi 500-A021
I think the adapter would work good from them but I haven't tried it so I can't confirm it.
I don't remember exactly what I used but it consisted of a rubber and a plastic ring. The rubber ring sealed around the modified stock pipe inside the air box and the plastic ring is used to hold the rubber ring in place. It almost gives a flush mount and is just enough room to mount the filter inside the box.
I think I found them in the plumbing department at the local home improvement store.
I still get a lot of positive comments on my front strut brace.
I think the adapter would work good from them but I haven't tried it so I can't confirm it.
I don't remember exactly what I used but it consisted of a rubber and a plastic ring. The rubber ring sealed around the modified stock pipe inside the air box and the plastic ring is used to hold the rubber ring in place. It almost gives a flush mount and is just enough room to mount the filter inside the box.
I think I found them in the plumbing department at the local home improvement store.
I still get a lot of positive comments on my front strut brace.
#25
yeah, the OEM filter has more surface area and would likely work a bit better than this mod (or most aftermarket air intakes for that matter). But the changes are so small that I doubt anyone can tell the difference.