300whp N/A project
04-19-2011, 03:48 PM
#52
But I also think that this is something most renesis owners want deep down inside, even if they don't want to admit it, hence the reason for the 2 pages, it wouldn't surprise me if we get to 5.
04-19-2011, 04:29 PM
#54
The post from Eric makes me wonder if 300 Flywheel HP is in fact possible, or darn close to it. I believe he has gotten around 230 RWHP which puts him somewhere in the 270 Flywheel HP range.
Obviously that last 30 HP wont be easy but in the racing world, if you are willing to spend the money, amazing things are possible. Notice I said racing world. A 300 HP NA street renesis motor just isnt going to happen.
Obviously that last 30 HP wont be easy but in the racing world, if you are willing to spend the money, amazing things are possible. Notice I said racing world. A 300 HP NA street renesis motor just isnt going to happen.
04-19-2011, 11:34 PM
#57
The post from Eric makes me wonder if 300 Flywheel HP is in fact possible, or darn close to it. I believe he has gotten around 230 RWHP which puts him somewhere in the 270 Flywheel HP range.
Obviously that last 30 HP wont be easy but in the racing world, if you are willing to spend the money, amazing things are possible. Notice I said racing world. A 300 HP NA street renesis motor just isnt going to happen.
Obviously that last 30 HP wont be easy but in the racing world, if you are willing to spend the money, amazing things are possible. Notice I said racing world. A 300 HP NA street renesis motor just isnt going to happen.
Last edited by khronus79; 04-19-2011 at 11:45 PM.
04-20-2011, 09:37 AM
#58
04-20-2011, 09:45 AM
#60
slight\mild intake porting + a very free intake system helps top end power if you increase the rev limiter. Not by much but it does. Helpful? not much, it gets so peaky that it's barely useful!
04-20-2011, 09:58 AM
#61
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Well, this is true and pretty much puts the period on this type of project if it is a street driven car. It's almost pointless as I don't see any average driver having fun with a 300hp NA 2 rotor on the street.
04-22-2011, 11:34 AM
#63
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For those that don't know, spec race fuel is typically used so the tech inspectors can easily compare and find out if some racers are being tricky/cheating. Another reason is availability---you need to be able to have fuel at the track. An additional reason is you don't want to be switching fuels all the time as a properly tuned engine was tuned and uses the same fuel for that particular tune. Last but not least a racing series makes a small percentage on the fuel. Same for tires.
04-22-2011, 11:58 AM
#64
Ok, it's a 103ron fuel 
98 or 100ron is what's recommended and sold here in most racing series.
Getting in the 280hp range is feasable if you can work the engine's internals and don't have to keep the intake mainifold's length. Feasable but not wise if you don't have a trailer.
Our fuel has lower octane ratings than yours, that's why we're possibly able to squeeze some more ponies out of it. Ignition timing only works to an extent in increasing power.
As usual confrontation is vital, especially with the rulebooks at hand. Thanks for sharing your infos Eric!
G
98 or 100ron is what's recommended and sold here in most racing series.
Getting in the 280hp range is feasable if you can work the engine's internals and don't have to keep the intake mainifold's length. Feasable but not wise if you don't have a trailer.
Our fuel has lower octane ratings than yours, that's why we're possibly able to squeeze some more ponies out of it. Ignition timing only works to an extent in increasing power.
As usual confrontation is vital, especially with the rulebooks at hand. Thanks for sharing your infos Eric!
G
04-22-2011, 12:12 PM
#65
We run the GTX260 Sunoco fuel (I beleive it's 260). 98 octane. We run this because that is the REQUIRED fuel for our series. $7/gal. $10-11 in Canada at Mosport.
For those that don't know, spec race fuel is typically used so the tech inspectors can easily compare and find out if some racers are being tricky/cheating. Another reason is availability---you need to be able to have fuel at the track. An additional reason is you don't want to be switching fuels all the time as a properly tuned engine was tuned and uses the same fuel for that particular tune. Last but not least a racing series makes a small percentage on the fuel. Same for tires.
For those that don't know, spec race fuel is typically used so the tech inspectors can easily compare and find out if some racers are being tricky/cheating. Another reason is availability---you need to be able to have fuel at the track. An additional reason is you don't want to be switching fuels all the time as a properly tuned engine was tuned and uses the same fuel for that particular tune. Last but not least a racing series makes a small percentage on the fuel. Same for tires.
04-23-2011, 06:22 PM
#66
Registered
error
Guys, I messed up. Sorry. A stock Renesis with headers and Motec makes 265-268 hp. Not 255-258. Apologies my memory is failing from all that weed I inhaled as second hand smoke in highschool near the local baseball park (did I just say that?).
One of our engines a few years ago made 270 flywheel. Here is the dyno sheet. We then made around 210-220 chassis hp depending on the tune so you can do the math to get drivetrain loss.
One of our engines a few years ago made 270 flywheel. Here is the dyno sheet. We then made around 210-220 chassis hp depending on the tune so you can do the math to get drivetrain loss.
04-23-2011, 07:29 PM
#67
So why is it that so many cars have such a hard time hitting even 190whp with mods? I didn't think the header was that restrictive (mipipe also, or just the header?), nor that that much power could be had by tuning.
I mean, you are getting almost 50whp higher than most of the dynos I've seen, and with less mods.
I mean, you are getting almost 50whp higher than most of the dynos I've seen, and with less mods.
04-24-2011, 10:45 AM
#70
I zoom therefore I am.
well there you go OP. If you were to leave a bottle of nitrous open in front of the engine while on the test stand, and tuned for this totally random thing <wink wink, nudge nudge> , you could hit 300 HP at the flywheel
04-25-2011, 07:05 PM
#71
Registered
So why is it that so many cars have such a hard time hitting even 190whp with mods? I didn't think the header was that restrictive (mipipe also, or just the header?), nor that that much power could be had by tuning.
I mean, you are getting almost 50whp higher than most of the dynos I've seen, and with less mods.
I mean, you are getting almost 50whp higher than most of the dynos I've seen, and with less mods.
OK, so here's how this works. Any solid, experienced engine builder will tell you this:
-Start with new irons and housings. New irons and housings will make higher compression than used stuff.
-Purchase a bunch of new rotors from Mazda. Weigh them. Pick the two lightest (and those that are relatively close in weight) and send them plus a new eshaft and counters to one of a 1/2 dozen people in the US for balancing.
-Purchase all new consumables. All new side seals, apex seals, springs, gasket kits, bearings, etc.
-Add higher Oil Pressure Regulator
-Add various little trick parts and labor that help oil flow and cooling (no power gains, all for longevity).
-Paint the irons so they are nice and pretty
-You have a new motor that has the ABILITY to make more power than a used, old or rebuilt warranty engine. You have essentially built a crate motor that could have slightly lighter rotors and is better balanced. It will also flow oil better and have higher oil pressure.
-If it were me I would take apart the aluminum lower intake to inspect and rebuild it.
-Flow your injectors. I didn't say CLEAN your injectors I said FLOW your injectors. This is done to see what they actually produce. We have found the stock Denso injectors to be pretty consistant however you can find up to 7% flow differences. So flow them and start with ones that are the same or damn near same.
-Slap on a new set of our headers. We have experiemented with over 12 different sets and found the ones that work the best. Small differences in hp and trq with the larger differences being packaging. Headers for a rotary are a timed item. in otherwords, after a season of use they have been weakened by all that nasty high rotary exhaust heat.
-We use -11 NGK race plugs. Other people use different ones. We like 11
-Install the motor. Add spec 98 octane race fuel. Break-in the motor for about an hour on the dyno putting a little more load on it after 10 minutes or so up to the point where you are pulling 7,000 rpm. change the oil and beat on it.
-Should make 210+ on a consistant Dynojet chassis dyno with a good tune in 4th gear. We have made North of 220 in 4th gear and higher in 5th. All stock with great intake and exhaust and a very warm drive train. Again, fresh motor done properly. Tuned properly.
Last note: Most of the guys we raced in Koni Challenge make 210-215 with stock motors on a dynojet chassis dyno. Stock cars with used motors make less. Stock cars with used motors and constrictive exhaust make less. Stock cars with used motors, constrictive exhaust, no tune, dirty air filter, dirty/old plugs, used coil packs on a dyno when the engine and drive train are cold MAKE LESS POWER.
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04-29-2011, 12:03 PM
#73
Guys, I messed up. Sorry. A stock Renesis with headers and Motec makes 265-268 hp. Not 255-258. Apologies my memory is failing from all that weed I inhaled as second hand smoke in highschool near the local baseball park (did I just say that?).
One of our engines a few years ago made 270 flywheel. Here is the dyno sheet. We then made around 210-220 chassis hp depending on the tune so you can do the math to get drivetrain loss.
One of our engines a few years ago made 270 flywheel. Here is the dyno sheet. We then made around 210-220 chassis hp depending on the tune so you can do the math to get drivetrain loss.
for example let's say stock engine produces 200WHP on a cool winter day with air temps around 30F..what would same engine produce on 70F and 95F day?
05-03-2011, 04:58 PM
#75
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