*NEW* Re Amemiya LSD pic
#2
New Member
nice.............
What difference does it make to an aftermarket LSD cf. stock.
I am planning to get one next time I visit Japan or Hong Kong. Easy to carry?
What difference does it make to an aftermarket LSD cf. stock.
I am planning to get one next time I visit Japan or Hong Kong. Easy to carry?
#5
The 1.5-way LSD provides power to both wheels when the car is travelling straight or turning; moderate grip is expected while engaged. The 2-way LSD provides power to both wheels when the car is travelling straight, turning, and braking. It is fully engaged at all times. I hear that 2-way differentials are good for drifting, but they are quite noisy. I would consider them the closest thing to a full-locking differential (?!?).
#6
from:http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20t...ential_101.htm
1-Way, 2-Way, 1.5-Way.......... What Does It Mean?
Some manufacturers make LSD's in different configurations and are commonly classified as 1 way, 2way, and 1.5 way. This designation reflects the design of the cam groove which enables the LSD to function differently under different loads. A 1 way differential means that the cam is shaped in such way as to have positive lock only when accelerating. The 2 way is constructed in a way to have positive lock motion in either acceleration or deceleration. The 1.5 way is a new term used to describe the 2 way cam which enables different lock up rates during the two directional forces. The 1.5 distribute positive lock stronger under acceleration than when decelerating. The 1.5 way can provide more forgiving balance when braking than a full 2 way setup, although it is less effective for true racing applications, it provides easier operation for beginners in throttle off conditions. It is also effective for front drive cars which need extra stability during braking.
and to open another can of worms I think we have torsen diff in the cars as std A torque biasing LSD. it sends more torque to the wheel with the most grip.
1-Way, 2-Way, 1.5-Way.......... What Does It Mean?
Some manufacturers make LSD's in different configurations and are commonly classified as 1 way, 2way, and 1.5 way. This designation reflects the design of the cam groove which enables the LSD to function differently under different loads. A 1 way differential means that the cam is shaped in such way as to have positive lock only when accelerating. The 2 way is constructed in a way to have positive lock motion in either acceleration or deceleration. The 1.5 way is a new term used to describe the 2 way cam which enables different lock up rates during the two directional forces. The 1.5 distribute positive lock stronger under acceleration than when decelerating. The 1.5 way can provide more forgiving balance when braking than a full 2 way setup, although it is less effective for true racing applications, it provides easier operation for beginners in throttle off conditions. It is also effective for front drive cars which need extra stability during braking.
and to open another can of worms I think we have torsen diff in the cars as std A torque biasing LSD. it sends more torque to the wheel with the most grip.
#10
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Originally Posted by shelleys_man_06
Has anyone ever considered an upgraded differential? I'm waiting to see what companies such as Kaaz, CUSCO, etc. are coming out with.
#11
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
When I first read the subject headline, I was expecting something more like this
#12
Originally Posted by Cam
Im wondering what the performance advantage would be. I know there is a MS LSD out.
Don't y'all enjoy me bringing back old threads?
#14
i thought that if u upgrade your power substantially and want to drift you should upgrade your LSD so you have more control in the turns... just know that LSDs are essential in drifting and turning if you're into that stuff...
#15
Registered
Originally Posted by Morgan
oooook....woah now buddy--i was thinking the SAME thing when i saw the title...but that thing is trippin me out..i can't stop looking @ it! I blame Ajax..he sent me the link to the thread... :D
Jeebus!
#17
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
I've been expecting the diff to be the first thing to go, but after reading this post I have much more confidence. Thanks.
Charles
Charles
#19
That has been on my mind since the nitrous. I have been trying to keep a mental list of those trannys that will fit the best and give me the ratios that might improve upon the factory gears. With the nitrous, first gear is like a truck gear. Any ideas?
Charles
Charles
#20
Originally Posted by nojooc
My money's on the gearbox being the weakest link.
I would agree. I know it's not the same box, but the Speed World Challenge 6 has faltered multiple times because of gear issues. If the 8's tranny was practically stronger I would expect that they would modify it for use in the Tri-Point 6, but there's been talk of moving to an aftermarket dog box.
I don't know much about Mazda's historical record as far as tranny reliability and strength go though.
As for upgrades, I thought I remembered seeing something in a Japanese mag about a crossed gear set, but I can't find it now. Ring a bell to anyone?
I think that all the 8's gears feel like truck ratios, yet drinking down petrol at 4000 rpm at highway speeds with the stock set makes a final ratio change sound impractical. Unless you're not compromising with a daily driver.
#21
Charles, this sounds extreme, but have you considered an RX-7 Turbo II transmission swap? I talked a bit with Gigolo Jason (where have you been?!) a while back, and he said a swap like that may be good, especially when making big power. You'll lose a gear, but I don't think it would make much of a difference. Besides the R Series transmissions are really strong. Also consider an FD tranny swap, if you're nuts like me.
#22
The latest issue of RX Tuner has an adsvertisement from a company that has the turbo II trannys for $350 and the FD trannys for $700. What's the difference between the two and why does the turbo II trans get so much mention? Of course, I want to wreck my factory trans and see if I can possibly come up with a way to strengthen it. Part of my big dream to get off of the assembly line. On the truck gearing issue, if it seems that all the gears are truck gears, i.e. too many revs at most speeds, then a new ring and pinion set might be in order. I have contemplated that for myself, as well.
Charles
Charles
#23
I'm also thinking about getting a taller final drive. 4.44 is fine, especially in stock form, but I'm not sure if it's the right setup for what I want.
My belief since a rotary engine is high-revving, the fatigue lives of the gear shafts, input and output shafts may be shorter than that of lower revving engines. I think a good solution is to use stronger materials, and/or different gear ratios.
My belief since a rotary engine is high-revving, the fatigue lives of the gear shafts, input and output shafts may be shorter than that of lower revving engines. I think a good solution is to use stronger materials, and/or different gear ratios.
Last edited by shelleys_man_06; 10-08-2004 at 06:18 AM.