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Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications Discussion of power adding modifications
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:46 AM   #1  
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OH $5500

So I bought my car just over a year ago and after fixing all the issues I'm ready to mod. I'm looking to spend 5500. My car is an 04 with 94,000 miles. I want mods that will help make the most of my car without hurting the engine. I have created a list:
Full turboxs header back exhaust

Exedy stage 1 clutch

Act pro lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight

Axial flow s2 short shift kit w/ custom ****

Cobb access port

New tires ( a good street tire )

New brake rotors and pads

Arm cold air intake

I have to set aside some for a dyno and tune. Is this a good setup. Let me know what you guys would do with $5500 to a stock rx8. I need ideas.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:23 AM   #2  
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Exedy stage 1 clutch

Act pro lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight
Don't do it, your left foot will thank me. Just go with a stock Exedy clutch.

Lightweight flywheel is up to you. It doesn't do much other than make the engine rev faster at idle.

Don't expect much in gains from the cold air intake.

Also, a midpipe/full exhaust is a good addition to the list.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:02 AM   #3  
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I know that an intake won't get me much but I'm hoping that everything will kindove work together to improve air flow and make for a more fun driving experience. Is there another flywheel that might be easier on my foot?
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:12 AM   #4  
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5500 can go a long way if you shop for deals.
1. Cobb= 300
2. AP midpipe= 75
3. RB midpipe= 120
4. AFE shifter= 160
5. RR Single= 180
6. HKS Single= 60 ....not a typo I paid 60$ for mine
That's a short list of the major parts I have bought and the price. As you can see 5500 will go a long way! Just be patient and know what you're looking for.
I would add coilovers or a shock/spring combo to the list. That would be your most expensive upgrade. I would also leave out the Intake...
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:04 PM   #5  
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Where did you get those kinds of deals? EBay? And thanks for mentioning the coilovers
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:41 AM   #6  
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The Forums for most but Craigslist for the HKS Single and AP mid
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:28 AM   #7  
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Do you have a series 2 RX-8 if so the cobb will be useless.

With $5,500 I would say spend about $2,500 or less!

Short shifter
Light weight flywheel
Agency power under drive pulley (trust me on this)
Dual resonated mid pipe (racing beat)
Coilovers (brand of your choice, RESEARCH!)
Exhaust

Save the rest of your money to go turbo later.
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #8  
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So you have a cash reserve to rebuild the engine? Time after time, ppl mod, blow, can't afford to fix, then part out for pennies on the dollar.

Test the compression. If it's low, the biggest engine performance mod you can do is to have the engine rebuilt by a good shop.
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #9  
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Why would you specify an S2 shifter for an S1 RX8?

If you plan to stay NA then I recommend staying with the OE replacement clutch rather than the Stage 1. You will only pay extra to have a stiffer clutch thats not needed. Unless your clutch is shot there's no point changing it either.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-10-2013 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:51 AM   #10  
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Always remember before mods. is maintenance!

https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lation-203805/

Start there!

Next I would look into the series 2 transmission

Research the C.A.I. before getting it, a lot of people have reported HP loss from them!

ACT stage one and lightweight flywheel + counterweight is a really start

Catless midpipe is almost a must as well as a cobb

Go from there with coilovers, tires, BHR ignition upgrade, exhaust system is all personal preference with sound, and just do research and always try to get the most bang for you $$$$
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:06 PM   #11  
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OK my car is a S1 so ya Idk why I put S2 up top. I had my car serviced at Mazda and they said that it ran fine and that a compression test wasent needed. I'm looking to get the most out of it without going forced induction so no turbo. Guess I will keep searching the sale forum for a nice exhaust, header, and mid pipe. As for the Cobb I'm buying that new.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:00 PM   #12  
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I don't care what some stoner Mazda tech told you. On a 2004 with 94,000 miles, unless you have a compression test to definitively show otherwise, set aside at least $3k of that money for a rotary rebuild. Period.

Otherwise you WILL be back about the time you've put all your shiny new toys on it asking why it won't start when you turned it off to get gas. Then you'll be parting it out.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:04 PM   #13  
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Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.

Use your cash for maintenance. Upkeep as needed. It's a fun car stock. Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods".
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:17 PM   #14  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RadRedR3 View Post
Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.

Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods".
smh...
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:49 PM   #15  
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Lol. Yeah yeah. I know. Grumpy "old guy" perspective. Lmao. I made all those mistakes already. Just trying to help this young guy out. Of course, when I got told the same things....

I didn't listen either.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #16  
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Yeah get a compression test so you know where the engine really is sitting at. You can't just drive it and say it's in good condition... My old engine had low compression and drove just fine.

Is the 90k miles on the original engine or reman? that's important info...
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:20 PM   #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emery_ View Post
Yeah get a compression test so you know where the engine really is sitting at. You can't just drive it and say it's in good condition... My old engine had low compression and drove just fine.

Is the 90k miles on the original engine or reman? that's important info...
+1
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:43 PM   #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RadRedR3
Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.

Use your cash for maintenance. Upkeep as needed. It's a fun car stock. Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods".
That's at statement that's completely preference related. If you really like the 8 and plan to keep it, then make it exactly the way you want it.


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Old 03-10-2013, 08:55 PM   #19  
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That's at statement that's completely preference related. If you really like the 8 and plan to keep it, then make it exactly the way you want it.


Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android
Hey, I made two posts. I gave him both options. Lol
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:21 AM   #20  
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if you do decide to install a stiffer clutch then you will also need to buy a weld-reinforced clutch pedal or clutch pedal reinforcement kit
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #21  
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3k for a rebuild!? Never...
That better include ceramic seals for that price, or a second short block...
I paid 3k for my short block, bridge port, and rebuild... Would have been 1~1.5k less if i hadn't bought a short block.

Shop around for rebuild costs, and like they've said... don't listen to the Mazda tech, ask for a compression test, and tell them you want the results for each apex (Should be 6 numbers), and the RPM. From there you can determine if it's good enough for what you want to do.

Rotary Resurrection in Knoxville. $1400 for a basic rebuild with all new seals and gaskets. $300 engine shipping round trip.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #22  
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if you do decide to install a stiffer clutch then you will also need to buy a weld-reinforced clutch pedal or clutch pedal reinforcement kit
+1. Just went through this myself.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:18 PM   #23  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddozen View Post
3k for a rebuild!? Never...
That better include ceramic seals for that price, or a second short block...
I paid 3k for my short block, bridge port, and rebuild... Would have been 1~1.5k less if i hadn't bought a short block.

Shop around for rebuild costs, and like they've said... don't listen to the Mazda tech, ask for a compression test, and tell them you want the results for each apex (Should be 6 numbers), and the RPM. From there you can determine if it's good enough for what you want to do.

Rotary Resurrection in Knoxville. $1400 for a basic rebuild with all new seals and gaskets. $300 engine shipping round trip.
You get what you pay for in a cheap rebuild. $3,000.00 is low end. Some builders will reuse anything, not balance the engine, won't know how to properly spec the hard parts, and will only replace what they feel is necessary (guessing mostly) using sub par parts, seals, etc.

And after talking to many of them I have found that most don't know jack **** so taking their word for anything is a huge gamble.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:51 AM   #24  
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^they will never know until finding out firsthand, good luck trying to convey the message though
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:14 AM   #25  
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https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...1E&usp=sharing

here is a list i just put together for the same reasons maybe it will help spur some ideas. enjoy
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