$5500
So I bought my car just over a year ago and after fixing all the issues I'm ready to mod. I'm looking to spend 5500. My car is an 04 with 94,000 miles. I want mods that will help make the most of my car without hurting the engine. I have created a list:
Full turboxs header back exhaust Exedy stage 1 clutch Act pro lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight Axial flow s2 short shift kit w/ custom knob Cobb access port New tires ( a good street tire ) New brake rotors and pads Arm cold air intake I have to set aside some for a dyno and tune. Is this a good setup. Let me know what you guys would do with $5500 to a stock rx8. I need ideas. |
Originally Posted by Steven18125
(Post 4437610)
Exedy stage 1 clutch
Act pro lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight Lightweight flywheel is up to you. It doesn't do much other than make the engine rev faster at idle. Don't expect much in gains from the cold air intake. Also, a midpipe/full exhaust is a good addition to the list. |
I know that an intake won't get me much but I'm hoping that everything will kindove work together to improve air flow and make for a more fun driving experience. Is there another flywheel that might be easier on my foot?
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5500 can go a long way if you shop for deals.
1. Cobb= 300 2. AP midpipe= 75 3. RB midpipe= 120 4. AFE shifter= 160 5. RR Single= 180 6. HKS Single= 60 ....not a typo I paid 60$ for mine That's a short list of the major parts I have bought and the price. As you can see 5500 will go a long way! Just be patient and know what you're looking for. I would add coilovers or a shock/spring combo to the list. That would be your most expensive upgrade. I would also leave out the Intake... |
Where did you get those kinds of deals? EBay? And thanks for mentioning the coilovers
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The Forums for most but Craigslist for the HKS Single and AP mid
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Do you have a series 2 RX-8 if so the cobb will be useless.
With $5,500 I would say spend about $2,500 or less! Short shifter Light weight flywheel Agency power under drive pulley (trust me on this) Dual resonated mid pipe (racing beat) Coilovers (brand of your choice, RESEARCH!) Exhaust Save the rest of your money to go turbo later. |
So you have a cash reserve to rebuild the engine? Time after time, ppl mod, blow, can't afford to fix, then part out for pennies on the dollar.
Test the compression. If it's low, the biggest engine performance mod you can do is to have the engine rebuilt by a good shop. |
Why would you specify an S2 shifter for an S1 RX8?
If you plan to stay NA then I recommend staying with the OE replacement clutch rather than the Stage 1. You will only pay extra to have a stiffer clutch thats not needed. Unless your clutch is shot there's no point changing it either. |
Always remember before mods. is maintenance!
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lation-203805/ Start there! Next I would look into the series 2 transmission Research the C.A.I. before getting it, a lot of people have reported HP loss from them! ACT stage one and lightweight flywheel + counterweight is a really start Catless midpipe is almost a must as well as a cobb Go from there with coilovers, tires, BHR ignition upgrade, exhaust system is all personal preference with sound, and just do research and always try to get the most bang for you $$$$ |
OK my car is a S1 so ya Idk why I put S2 up top. I had my car serviced at Mazda and they said that it ran fine and that a compression test wasent needed. I'm looking to get the most out of it without going forced induction so no turbo. Guess I will keep searching the sale forum for a nice exhaust, header, and mid pipe. As for the Cobb I'm buying that new.
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I don't care what some stoner Mazda tech told you. On a 2004 with 94,000 miles, unless you have a compression test to definitively show otherwise, set aside at least $3k of that money for a rotary rebuild. Period.
Otherwise you WILL be back about the time you've put all your shiny new toys on it asking why it won't start when you turned it off to get gas. Then you'll be parting it out. |
Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.
Use your cash for maintenance. Upkeep as needed. It's a fun car stock. Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods". |
Originally Posted by RadRedR3
(Post 4438011)
Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.
Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods". |
Lol. Yeah yeah. I know. Grumpy "old guy" perspective. Lmao. I made all those mistakes already. Just trying to help this young guy out. Of course, when I got told the same things....
I didn't listen either. |
Yeah get a compression test so you know where the engine really is sitting at. You can't just drive it and say it's in good condition... My old engine had low compression and drove just fine.
Is the 90k miles on the original engine or reman? that's important info... |
Originally Posted by Emery_
(Post 4438041)
Yeah get a compression test so you know where the engine really is sitting at. You can't just drive it and say it's in good condition... My old engine had low compression and drove just fine.
Is the 90k miles on the original engine or reman? that's important info... |
Originally Posted by RadRedR3
Better yet, set aside ALL that money for your next car. Why on God's green earth would you sink $5,500 into a car that's probably worth about $4,500 - $5000 as it sits. After you spend your savings on it it's still gonna be worth what it was before.
Use your cash for maintenance. Upkeep as needed. It's a fun car stock. Enjoy it as is then move on. Don't waste all your money on "mods". Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android |
Originally Posted by Coldwound
(Post 4438100)
That's at statement that's completely preference related. If you really like the 8 and plan to keep it, then make it exactly the way you want it.
Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android |
if you do decide to install a stiffer clutch then you will also need to buy a weld-reinforced clutch pedal or clutch pedal reinforcement kit
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3k for a rebuild!? Never...
That better include ceramic seals for that price, or a second short block... I paid 3k for my short block, bridge port, and rebuild... Would have been 1~1.5k less if i hadn't bought a short block. Shop around for rebuild costs, and like they've said... don't listen to the Mazda tech, ask for a compression test, and tell them you want the results for each apex (Should be 6 numbers), and the RPM. From there you can determine if it's good enough for what you want to do. Rotary Resurrection in Knoxville. $1400 for a basic rebuild with all new seals and gaskets. $300 engine shipping round trip. |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4438283)
if you do decide to install a stiffer clutch then you will also need to buy a weld-reinforced clutch pedal or clutch pedal reinforcement kit
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Originally Posted by reddozen
(Post 4438973)
3k for a rebuild!? Never...
That better include ceramic seals for that price, or a second short block... I paid 3k for my short block, bridge port, and rebuild... Would have been 1~1.5k less if i hadn't bought a short block. Shop around for rebuild costs, and like they've said... don't listen to the Mazda tech, ask for a compression test, and tell them you want the results for each apex (Should be 6 numbers), and the RPM. From there you can determine if it's good enough for what you want to do. Rotary Resurrection in Knoxville. $1400 for a basic rebuild with all new seals and gaskets. $300 engine shipping round trip. And after talking to many of them I have found that most don't know jack shit so taking their word for anything is a huge gamble. |
^they will never know until finding out firsthand, good luck trying to convey the message though
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https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...1E&usp=sharing
here is a list i just put together for the same reasons :) maybe it will help spur some ideas. enjoy |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4439047)
You get what you pay for in a cheap rebuild. $3,000.00 is low end. Some builders will reuse anything, not balance the engine, won't know how to properly spec the hard parts, and will only replace what they feel is necessary (guessing mostly) using sub par parts, seals, etc.
And after talking to many of them I have found that most don't know jack shit so taking their word for anything is a huge gamble. |
nobody is referring to those chumps
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Originally Posted by reddozen
(Post 4439431)
Shops and mechanics are also known for robbing patrons blind. The argument can be made from both sides. "You get what you pay for" is not always a valid statement. Comparing ebay parts to say... HKS? Sure, I can agree there, but labor charges and profit margins aren't a clear indicator of quality either. Turblown? Esmeril? Expensive, overstated value, overstated gains, missed delivery dates, excuses, and LOTS of complaints. Quality is reputation, not price. Price is just what you're wiling to pay.
And you should have thrown BDC in that list, after seeing a recent very expensive rebuild he did I wouldn't trust him to port or rebuild my lawn mower. But we all learn differently and some the hard way. A couple of friends of mine have had the pleasure of dealing with two different but both highly capable (an somewhat expensive understandably) race car fab shops to fix their Turblown kits and they are both extremely excited and relieved to receive high quality well fabricated parts that work. And sometimes if you are capable and want something done right, you have to do it yourself. I would say that for the most part you do get what you pay for when it comes to engine builders. $10,000.00 spent on a build with Darryl Drummond gets you a top notch build that is proven on an engine dyno or spending $10,000.00 with Corky Bell would get you a top notch fully functional turbo kit. Spending as much with the likes of Turblown, BDC, Esmeril, etc. gets you a largely unusable sum of parts, an empty bank account and a sore butt hole. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4439462)
I agree, a higher price does not always equate to better results. But quality parts (OEM seals, ianetti seals, etc), assembly balancing, and new hard parts all cost a significant amount of money and there is just no way around that unless you have some sort of serious hook up. A builders charges for labor and what their lack of ability can cost you can equal serious amounts of cash.
And you should have thrown BDC in that list, after seeing a recent very expensive rebuild he did I wouldn't trust him to port or rebuild my lawn mower. But we all learn differently and some the hard way. A couple of friends of mine have had the pleasure of dealing with two different but both highly capable (an somewhat expensive understandably) race car fab shops to fix their Turblown kits and they are both extremely excited and relieved to receive high quality well fabricated parts that work. And sometimes if you are capable and want something done right, you have to do it yourself. I would say that for the most part you do get what you pay for when it comes to engine builders. $10,000.00 spent on a build with Darryl Drummond gets you a top notch build that is proven on an engine dyno or spending $10,000.00 with Corky Bell would get you a top notch fully functional turbo kit. Spending as much with the likes of Turblown, BDC, Esmeril, etc. gets you a largely unusable sum of parts, an empty bank account and a sore butt hole. With you're examples, their reputation precedes them. Thus, they demand a premium, and I can respect their price. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4439462)
gets you a largely unusable sum of parts, an empty bank account and a sore butt hole.
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4439387)
^they will never know until finding out firsthand, good luck trying to convey the message though
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Sorry to hear that man. It happens all the time though unfortunately.
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It does, you live and you learn.
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Originally Posted by dizenman
(Post 4442472)
I recently did. Ended up dumping nearly $4000 trying to get it rebuilt with a guy who claimed to have worked for rotary resurrection. After about 8 months of failure he pretty much told me to go screw myself. Anyways, I'm doing it right this time and the seals alone are costing me $1500, and its only that cheap because I had already purchased the $300+ apex seals. On top of that lapping the housings is 320 at mazdatrix or 334 at racing beat. Plus I need 2 new rotors which is another $500-650 for usable condition used rotors. plus I'm getting a deal on the labor at only $1000, so It is costing me $3500+ still. I don't see how a shop could stay in business offering rebuilds for less than the price of just the seals.
3K for a rebuild usually means it's crap Wanna know how much I did for my FC engine all brand new parts /w BDC doing a small street port (I know I know about BDC, but hey im sure he can port an engine, lol)0 except 2 rotors and e-shaft with Ceramic seals AND I have MMS discount? like 7 or 8K. and i did all work myself except the porting. MSP parts cost slighty less so maybe 5-6K without ceramic seals. don't need new housing/iron ? well u don't execatly need them but honestly if u want good compression, you will need at least a pair of brand new housing. and those things ain't cheap. |
Originally Posted by yomomspimp06
(Post 4437651)
5500 can go a long way if you shop for deals.
1. Cobb= 300 2. AP midpipe= 75 3. RB midpipe= 120 4. AFE shifter= 160 5. RR Single= 180 6. HKS Single= 60 ....not a typo I paid 60$ for mine That's a short list of the major parts I have bought and the price. As you can see 5500 will go a long way! Just be patient and know what you're looking for. I would add coilovers or a shock/spring combo to the list. That would be your most expensive upgrade. I would also leave out the Intake... |
cruise the forums for deals man. The only thing I'll be paying full price for is a set of coilovers I'm ordering tomorrow and I am even getting a slight price reduction on those after emailing the vendor.
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