Scratches on glovebox...
#1
Anatomy of a corner...
Thread Starter
Scratches on glovebox...
I've been trying Mother's B2B (after searching). It minimized some scratches on the glovebox but the larger scratches are still there. I assume the disappearance of the scratches is mostly due to my rubbing, not the product. When rubbing, I was using strong PAPER towels. I am guessing if I used something abrasive (like the green stuff on the back of dish sponges) and B2B, it might work better?
Or, are there any other products (maybe ScratchX?) that I could use on my glovebox?
Thanks,
FS
Or, are there any other products (maybe ScratchX?) that I could use on my glovebox?
Thanks,
FS
#2
Purveyor of fine bass
ScratchX won't work ion your glovebox. You pretty much are stuck using an interior dressing (mothers b2b isn't for interiors, but i guess it works anyways) to cover it up, however much it actually covers.
#3
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i too have the same problem witht he mazda3 too...it SUX...i really hate mazda for choosing that type of material...and our doors too...OMG.....horrible...
but that something small......dosent ruin the ownership+)...
haha
but that something small......dosent ruin the ownership+)...
haha
#4
Metatron
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Propane, and propane accessories.......
Sounds dumb, but try a propane torch.
Take the glovebox out, try it on the back or bottom, somewhere it won't show.
Scratch up a test piece, pass the flame over it quickly, the heat will melt any tiny rough pieces that form the white scratch, and it should disappear. If it doesn't, stop.
S
Take the glovebox out, try it on the back or bottom, somewhere it won't show.
Scratch up a test piece, pass the flame over it quickly, the heat will melt any tiny rough pieces that form the white scratch, and it should disappear. If it doesn't, stop.
S
#5
Anatomy of a corner...
Thread Starter
I was actually thinking the same thing--heating it up. I was gonna use a lighter/match, as I don't have a propane torch.
Hank Hill would be proud of you.
FS
Hank Hill would be proud of you.
FS
#7
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Originally Posted by LionZoo
The problem with heating it up is that once it solidifies again, the grain of the plastic would be gone as that's built into the plastic from the mold.
#8
Metatron
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Hot enough.....
That is why you use a large flame, applied quickly - try it on the back of your hand, the flame has no chance to "burn" you, but all the hair is gone!
You just want to sweep the flame over the scratch enough to melt all the tiny plastic "hairs" you have created, not melt it smooth !
S
You just want to sweep the flame over the scratch enough to melt all the tiny plastic "hairs" you have created, not melt it smooth !
S
#9
Purveyor of fine bass
I have to wonder whether the potential risk of the propane approach is worth it. Maybe localized melting using a hot wire hanger piece is better, but still... I'd have to play w/ a spare glove box, I wouldn't want to try on my own.
#10
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Pretty much anything you do will ruin the "faux-leather" imprint on the interior plastic. I've got scuff marks on the bottom part of my driver's seat--from kicking it going in and out of the car. I use stuff like Turtle Wax ICE to detail it and it goes away for a while. It looks fine while "wet" and shiny. But once it dries, the scuffs come back
Maybe a very fine grit sand paper and water--wet sanding. But that, too, will remove the pattern. You can always heat it up and while it is cooling, press somethign of similar patterns on the warm plastic? That, or just buy a new glove box...
Maybe a very fine grit sand paper and water--wet sanding. But that, too, will remove the pattern. You can always heat it up and while it is cooling, press somethign of similar patterns on the warm plastic? That, or just buy a new glove box...
#11
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Originally Posted by Phantom Menace
Pretty much anything you do will ruin the "faux-leather" imprint on the interior plastic. I've got scuff marks on the bottom part of my driver's seat--from kicking it going in and out of the car. I use stuff like Turtle Wax ICE to detail it and it goes away for a while. It looks fine while "wet" and shiny. But once it dries, the scuffs come back
Maybe a very fine grit sand paper and water--wet sanding. But that, too, will remove the pattern. You can always heat it up and while it is cooling, press somethign of similar patterns on the warm plastic? That, or just buy a new glove box...
Maybe a very fine grit sand paper and water--wet sanding. But that, too, will remove the pattern. You can always heat it up and while it is cooling, press somethign of similar patterns on the warm plastic? That, or just buy a new glove box...
wow, that a very good idea....finding a similar imprint!!!!
we should start a thread and everyone could submit the best imprint they find.....talk about data collections..haha!!
the comment regrading only passing the torch.....wouldn't it make sense for the heat to be able to melt the sctrachs....it would be enouhg to melt the box's imprint...
you're using the wrong example...hair on your hand v.s. the skin.
they are two different types of material and hair does burn VERY fast. as oppose to skin.
But when we are talking about the same material like the glovebox, the material will burn equally fast. so for enought heat for the scatchs to burn the rest other parts will be heating up just as much as well.
#12
Anatomy of a corner...
Thread Starter
Well, I tried to use a scotch pad to blend the scuff marks. That slightly hid them but it also roughed up the surrounding area. At this point, I really don't care anymore since my virgin glovebox has been violated I wish I could fix it though...
FS
FS
#13
i coudl take an impression of a part of the dash with some dental impression material and pour the impression in stone.. end up with a stone piece that has the pattern on it... i'll have to try it out soon
#14
Illudium Q-36 Space Moderator
iTrader: (1)
There is a vinyl repair kit at like Autozone with dash patterns in it. The idea is to use glue to put new material on the hole and melt it into place with the pattern to blend it. Maybe you could use that with the torch (not the glue crap, just the pattern).
#15
You can get a new one from onlinemazdaparts.com for like $75... I looked into it b/c my ex's dog scratched the **** out of mine with his leash... damn dog... anyways it's just oen of those things I never went thru with... can't be that hard to swop...
-Brian
-Brian
#17
Anatomy of a corner...
Thread Starter
For some reason, the glovebox started rattling a lot, especially when I was stopping. Took it into Mazda, asked them to take a look and they said they'd replace it. Now I have a fresh glovebox--I should have asked to keep the old one, though I doubt they'd let me since it was under warranty.
FS
FS
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