Mr.&Mrs.Magic

iTrader: (3)

What's the diff between meguiars agressive clay and mild clay. If claying does not remove any of the clearcoat then why would you not go with the agressive. my 8 is 3 yrs. old and i believe it spet a lot of time at the beach. there was so much sand under the air box i litterly vacumed the engine bay. I'm sure the car has never been clayed before so if i clay it with the agressive bar should I then switch to mild bar for regular intervals of claying or just stay with the agressive.

416to212

I'd stick with the mild claybar. If your paint is only 3 years old and you clay bar twice a year from now on I think the mild will get everything out. Take the lease invasive approach and work over parts you think need a second pass, like over the trunk lid, hood, and roof.

No need to be agressive with any car's finish. 3 year old paint isn't really that old...

I would only use agressive if I was trying to restore an antique car...

Mr.&Mrs.Magic

iTrader: (3)

ok point well taken to the next question what is the actuall differance between the 2 and if it does not remove paint then why would you not go to the maxium effective equipment. i.e. will the agressive pull out deeper impurties for 3 yrs old the paint is in horrible shape. but i think you are right i should go with the mild just take a little more time and care

dozer

iTrader: (3)

i recently too ask myself the same question, when i was out lookin for a good claybar i asked myself does my car need an aggressive type or mild, then i compared my paint job on my 8 to that on the one on my s13, and i thought to myself i claybar when ever i can and my 8 is WAY better lookin than my s13, sooo i decided to go with the mild just to be on the safe side. it actually worked better than the mothers or the other meguires claybar kit...advice, use the mild bar with the meguires ultimate detailer as your lube, your car is gonna feel soooo soft and look sooooooo clean.

joebennz

the aggressive clay will cause micromarring in the finish of your car, so it is only recommended if you are going to correct the paint afterward via polish or some type of compound. it gets the stuff off much easier but at the cost of tiny scratches that can be removed with a pc or rotary buffer.

if your going to clay and wax, use the mild
if you are going to compound and simonize, you should still use the mild but if thats not cutting it then switch.

it also helps to wash you car with dawn before you clay. This is not good to do everytime you wash but before claying it will dry everything out and make it easier for the claybar to pick up the contaminates and remove them.

dozer

iTrader: (3)

^wow...thanks for the advice dude...

joebennz

Re: Differences between Meguiar's clay bars?
Quote:
Originally posted by adreed24
I know that Meguiar's makes 2 clay bars. One comes with the "Meguiar's Quik Clay Detailing System" (G1116), the other comes from the professional line and is sold by itself.

I think the "professional" one is supposed to be bigger, than the one that comes in the "Detailing System".

Is there a difference in performance, cleaning ability, or quality, between these 2 clay bars? If so, which is best?





The differences are in size and aggressiveness, or mildness, whichever way you like to think of it

Quik Clay System - Fine clay
Professional Detailing Clay Mild - Mild clay
Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive - Aggressive


It all has to do with the type of abrasives used in the clay itself. Meguiar's doesn't recommend our Aggressive clay to consumers and enthusiasts as it has the potential to mar or clay haze the finish. For a professional this is okay because they're looking for speed in removing above surface bonded contaminants and in most cases they are going to machine clean the paint afterwards so any clay haze is the least of their worries as they will be going after much more serious below surface paint defects.

dozer

iTrader: (3)

i have tried the white one with the kit and its pretty good, i just recently bought the blue and i personally think it works better, but instead of using that ^ quick detailer i use the "ultimate detailer" ( black bottle) with the blue clay, and my results were more satisfying.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

The golden rule of finish care is to go with the least invasive means possible to accomplish your goal. Therefore, the mild clay bar.

I personally use Griot's Garage clay bar (which is mild) and their detailing spray, but Meguiar's products are also excellent.

Mr.&Mrs.Magic

iTrader: (3)

ok so is it possible to remove some of the orange peel with the agressive. I'm not about to sand the car though i know you can remove the orange peel this way. if i clay then polish will this work to remove orange peel or just marr the finish. I have painted a few bikes before so i do understand how to bring out the shine .

NgoRX8

iTrader: (1)

it will just marr. there is far too much orange peel to get rid of that the only way to get rid of it would be wet sanding. the aggressive clay is for overspray and neglected vehicles.

joebennz

Ultimate quick detailer isnt designed to be a clay lube.. it is too slick, and makes the clay just glide over everything and pick up less. UQD is better used after a wash to repel dirt. it will mimic that just waxed look in terms of water beading.

as far as orange peel is concerned, there is no clay aggresive enough to remove orange peel. clay is designed to move over the surface of your car and remove anything stuck to it. Orange peel is an uneven painted surface. clay will just glide over and over it, and will never fix it. wetsanding and heavy polishing is the only way to remove orange peel.

dozer

iTrader: (3)

i use it anyways + i wash my car everyweek so it isnt like i have much on it to begin with...thanks for the advise anyways