Track car build, NASA ST5, SCCA STL
 

After looking at several different rwd platform, from E36 to BRZ, I decided to go with the RX8. Superior double wishbone suspension and chassis are cheap to find. My initial plan was to do k24 swap, but after doing some research, it seems that it would require modding the subframe which is not allowed in the rules. So I'm going to build the renesis and run it for now. The K24 would make enough hp for me to run ST4 and also detune to run ST5. But with the renesis, it won't make enough to max out the ST4 class.

First attempt at removing the tar with a blow torch. Did the center section first. Conclusion is it's too smelly and smoky if you burn the tar. And took too much effort. Then I tried the dry ice method. Much easier and less mess to clean up afterwards. Dry ice was about $3 per lb and I used about 15 lbs, plus 3 bottles of alcohol. Total tar removed was around 23 lbs

Was debating on whether to keep the HVAC unit or not since I wanted to drive the car street legal this year for some test and tune. But the cage builder convinced me to remove it. Also since I wasn't going to keep the radio, I would have to figure out a way to control the HVAC. I'm going to use a small electric ceramic heater for the defroster. Total weight of the HVAC was around 20 lbs.

Cage is done and painted. Trimming the dash to fit back in was pain. It was pretty heavy and after all the trimming, i probably took about a third of the weight off.

Some goodies going in the car. Sparco circuit seat. OS Giken 1.5 way LSD and 5.125 final drive.

Looking good. That seat mount certainly is robust. Did you make provisions for the crotch belts to attach somewhere?

the anti sub slot on the seat is right above the front of the seat base. i think i can mount the i-bolt just in front of the base or just a hole in the base to mount the i-bolt. the seat bottom is about 1" above the base at the front and about 1/4" above the seat base in the back. so not much room.

I like the heater idea. Wish I had bought and stored away a 5.125 R&P back when they were readily available.

You don't want it too far forward. Look at these guidelines.

https://www.schrothracing.com/docs/C...structions.pdf

yeah that's the guideline i used for my previous track car also

I have a spare. ;)

I've talked to my local TT director about this extensively, because I was told the same thing. What the TT director told me was that the critical thing NASA doesn't want changed is the suspension attachment points. He said changing the center section of the front subframe is fine.

For instance, I asked him if I could bolt or weld new mounts for an engine swap, and he said that was absolutely okay. He said a local racer had even been given the okay to make his subframe into three distinct pieces so it was easier for him to remove the engine.

Oh there out there for sure, but the obvious is if I have to ask for a price then I probably can't afford it ... :lol:

Are they worth that much? didn't pay a lot for the spare I have. I was going to put it in my grey car, but then... My new car already has one in it, so the one I bought is a spare.

i would have to check with the national TT director to confirm that modding the subframe is allowed as long as it doesn't change the suspension pickup points. it might be ok for one local region, but i run in three different nasa region.

if the concern was only about the suspension mounting points, then they wouldn't have include not allowing mod to the firewall and trans tunnel for engine swap.

I think it's possible I'm incorrectly applying what our regional TT director told me. When I asked him, he may have been speaking specifically about the lettered TT classes, not the numbered ones. I'll ask him about it.

Nick

Brought the car to CBRD last week to start working on suspension and engine stuff.

Subbed so I can learn how to mod my car like a bauce. 😉

What are you planning for ballast?

Your car is like a clone of mine. :P Red, Ohlins DFV, Sohn, same tanks, same intake...

Anyway, I'll tell you what I found with that oil tank. Because it's a gravity feed, of course, it has gaps built into the cap's gasket to allow air in. But that means it also lets oil out. If it's full, it can easily slosh enough out to get on the exhaust and smoke.

I don't have a great solution yet. I sealed mine up better and drilled a small hole in the center of the cap. I plan to glue some foam in the inside of the cap to keep the oil from sloshing out.

I've been wondering about cannibalizing a computer hard drive for the little breather filter they put near the breather hole. Drill the smallest hole possible and then use a bead of superglue around the hole to secure the filter.

Air Circulation and Air Filtration

thanks for the heads up on that.

ill probably just drill a hole on the cap and put a vacuum line filter on it. and seal up the seal on the cap.

https://us.vwr.com/store/product/361...n-line-filters

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e6bb4016de.jpg

i can't put the car on scales yet since i'm still working on the rear top hat for the ohlins. then figure out how much ballast i would need. i'm thinking i'll probably need 150-200 lbs of ballast. i was going to make a plate and mount it to the passenger seat mounting holes, then mount several different size weight to it so i can removed or add different combination of weights.

Got a new Odyssey battery from sponsorship. Will install it inside the car on passenger side.

Was going to do a custom exhaust from header back, but I saw that PowerXS had a 3" test pipe that was pretty cheap. I couldn't get pipes and flanges for less than what cost. So we are going to do custom cat back exhaust.
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got the antisub eyebolt mounted. Was worried that it might hit the frame rail, but the alignment came out pretty good.

Had to cut the front camber bolt on driver side. The passenger side came out with air hammer but driver side was stuck pretty good. Tried every for last couple days and finally decided to cut it off. And press the bolt out after the control arm is out.

Did the front wheel studs. I didn't remove the hub but you might as well, it just 4 bolts to remove the wheel bearing and hub and press out studs. The rear will have to press out the hub for sire, so I'm going to replace the wheel bearings also while the hub has to be pressed out .

Front suspension is done. Still working on the rear top hat. the hole was cut center to the cup, but as you can see the shock doesn't really line up center to the hole. so i grind open up the hole more and also align the spring to one side more. It will have spring retainer ring on the outside. CBRD had the plate water jet.
i removed the rear brake dust shield and will make some brake duct for the rear.
CBRD also finished the 3" exhaust.
got the power wire and master kill switch mounted done. battery will be mounted on the passenger seat side.