We run only a lap belt in our car... but have a properly sized Sparco Pro2000 in there and it's just fine. The shoulder belts are tucked under the seat when not used, my co driver doesn't like his shoulders being pulled back.

Yep, or using a wrap-around chest belt as an alternative upper body restraint if the risk factor is low is an option too

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I would honestly be more worried about escaping quickly in case of a fire, than a crash, at autocross. At least we are wearing helmets for a crash, and RX8's have quite a bit of metal surrounding us (unlike an open top CSP Miata with no rollbar and lap belts!). With a fire, I would want to be able to exit as quickly as possible, and more seat belt harnesses just slow you down. Then you start going down the path of fire suppression and SFI suits to buy you enough time to get out of the car.

Hopefully none of us experience either option though. I've only seen a few incidents (at autocross) and thankfully no one was severely injured.

Not with a rotary camlock imo, but ok.

came up on an accident on the interstate Sunday night about a minute after it occurred; appeared that someone rear-ended a cop car at high speed and their car was on fire. Another cop car was there and only two cops running around. My assumption was the occupant(s) in the car on fire didn’t make it out. A sobering moment, you never know when you’re time is up ... consider wisely. :)

Related/Unrelated note:

Apparently the average size helmet can't fit out of the window of the newer Camaros... At least I can dive out of the RX8 in a fire with my door pinned closed.

Assuming you didn’t rollover and crush it down some; seen that happen before too ... (wasn’t an RX8 though)

you gotta survive the crash or still conscious before worrying about getting out a burning car. my helmet doesnt fit through the window with the halo seat. if im stuck up against a rail or other car, i'd have to bail out the passenger side, which i practice often.

This is an autox thread though, not track. Actual crashes are rare, but once in a great while do happen. My previous reference to using 6-pt/FHR was *if* I was on a track rather than doing the usual autox stuff.

MCS shocks shipped and tracking for delivery tomorrow. Might be able to due some fit-up verification this weekend.

New Konig Hypergram 17x10 +43 wheel from Goodwin Racing; 17.9 lbs and $219 each intro price

https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-2663.html



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...346e430f4.jpeg

So it looks like one of the things that changed over the years that I may have overlooked is that we can now completely remove the inner wheel well liners?

Yes, but not the undertray.

good, because I had no intention of removing that ;)

do have some concerns about rocks and the backside of the oil coolers though. May have to think about guarding that some way effectively ...

Looking pretty good with a 10.5” wheel / 295 tire and no tricks or fender mods otherwise on the front
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Yeah, i'm looking at this versus the 17x10 +38 Enkei RPF1. I ran 255/40/17 falken RT615K on a Rota RT5-R2 17x10 +50 back in the day with almost no issue with no fender roll. i wonder if the Konig would require any rolling with a 255 autocross tire? i bet the enkei with the lower offset would require a roll.

i ran without them because of an offtrack excursion. after a while the backsides of the coolers really got beat up (bent fins) coming off the track on hot slicks rolling through the paddock. i put fender liners back in and just opened the exits a little. the coolers would also get water blasted in the rain, which caused me to lose way too much oil temperature to be healthy.

I would think some basic screens on the back sides would be more than enough.

Something like this spaced 0.5" to 1" away from the cooler would probably work pretty well.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6622t25
https://www.mcmaster.com/92725T42

It should be fine as-is with a 255 tire. I ran 18x10.5 +43 with 265 tires excessively lowered and no fender mods without issue. Here’s a pic of it:

Edit: corrected pic
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...38d7b1d07.jpeg



Dannobre has those wheels now, but I have another set that I was referring to with the 295 tire in the previous post. I would expect a Hoosier 275/35-17 to be fine even at a more proper ride height. I was running too low back then imo. The Enkei offset has issues. With 255 it might still be ok, but wider tires are going to start getting into the pinch weld problem. It would be better to have more offset. As you noted, +50 is about as far inboard as you can get on 10” before you start getting into steering issues inboard. If you limit steering angle then you can play the how deep can I go game with higher offset wheels, studs, and spacers. You might refer back to the wheel width vs offset list I made a few posts back as a reference on where that inboard limit is.

there’s probably not anyone on here more familiar with McMaster Carr than me, lol. :)

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Sparks and Hudson have ran the rx8 I now own for years, including the street, and the oil coolers are pretty decent. Still a 16 year old car, though, so they're not perfect.

What is more concerning is the rubber and rocks that fill the door jam.

ftfy

I was looking at that last night an and a few other spots too. It seems like some tape or shields might be worth considering on a few areas like that. Thx.

Hey sorry, realized I had posted the wrong picture above. Those were Enkei 18x9.5 +45 wheels. I fixed the picture to the 10.5 +43 wheels.

I should dig up a picture of them on my car... they are awesome wheels. I have these and 2 sets of RP01 18x9.5 +45. And a set of PF01 in 18x10.5 +38

I’d pay you double to have them back :o: impossible to find a full set now

So the one consideration might be brake clearance since I’m not sure if you have some kind of aftermarket BBK kit with mongo-sized calipers installed. I don’t recall you ever doing that, but thought it worth mentioning just in case.

WOW, Great work to everyone contributing to this thread. I've just started planning my build for next year and I figured I should start with this thread. Took me several days to get through it! Hopefully I absorbed all the important stuff.

I'm also interested in the discussion of what wheel size is best to get the best result. Tamra, I also have a friend (Maybe he is the same person) running 17x11's and he did quite well at the Packwood prosolo and tour. Unfortunately the competition in that class in the NW region isn't subscribed too that well so it may not have been a true measure. Let's see what he does at nationals, I believe he is signed up.

I'd love to get the same wheels but they are pricy! When I see those Konig 17x10's from Goodwin racing its very tempting. 1/4 the cost. But I don't want something inferior too. There is also a set of nice looking set of WedsSport SA-72r wheels 17x10.5 for a little more money: WedsSports

slap some 295's on them. Maybe a good compromise to the 11" wide?

The 18" wheels all just seem too heavy? - I don't know.

Anyhow, excited for what's to come!

-Jordan

Hey everyone, I shipped the RB brake rotors out to someone last week. That was the only set I had. Was surprised nobody spoke up sooner. Maybe nobody understood that I was giving them away to whoever inquired first. :)