Just bought the car a week ago, so very new to it. Previous car was a modified Talon I ran on Victoracers (this is my 4th year in AutoX).
OK, I've done a search, and I'm planning on the following alignment. It's going in tomorrow morning, so if anyone sees a problem, or something else I should adjust, let me know.

Car will be used in BS, and daily driver. I plan to do the last few local events this year bone stock and on streets (try to learn to drive it properly). For next year, I plan to get Koni Yellows and V710s (probably 245s on stock wheels).

Front Alignment
Camber: Max -ve camber (following the min caster, max -ve camber, re-add caster till you get what you want method).
Caster: what it ends up at while trying to get -1.5F camber (4.5 - 6 deg?)
Toe: 0

Rear Alignment
Camber: Front Camber -0.25deg
Toe: 1/16 to 1/8" total toe in

I think the FSB is adjustable, so I will have them set it to maximum stiffness. I think some people drill and extra hole for more adjustment. That may follow during the winter for next season.

Anyone see a problem with that set-up, or anthing else that should be adjusted (RSB adjustable?)?

 

you may want to search out all the other threads here on the same subject

 

Do you see something big I've missed?
I've read until my sight went blurry.
Most of the differences in opinion I read are in rear camber and toe. I've read everything from less -ve camber in the back to -.5deg more in the back. From Toe out to toe in on both ends. Nobody locally has run a RX-8 in AutoX, so I don't have a reference point to work from.
The choices I made above were to...
Keep it stable on the street (0 F toe vs toe out, and minor R toe in vs 0)
Try keep it from oversteering excessively (more -ve camber rear vs front)
While still making the car descent in autoX (very little R toe in, and not a large diff in camber F to R).
I havn't come across anything about the FSB being adjustable again (thought I read that last week some time) so after an eye break, I'll try the little search button again (I havn't received my shop manual yet, so I can't confirm that way).

 

The factory front sway bar isn't adjustable, unless you count the drilling method.

 

Yup, that was what I found earlier. Couldn't remeber the exact details and thought it was adjustable.

So I'm going to go with the alignment I listed above. There is a Sat/Sun event this weekend, I'll let you guys know what I ended up with and how it went, and also how it handles on the street.

 

Got the results of the alignment. They were able to get me:

Front
Camber: -1.45L, -1.48R
Caster: 4.91L, 4.93R
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: -1.62L, -1.64R
Toe: 1/16 toe in per side (1/8 total)

I'll let you know what I think of it after the races this weekend.

 

They are a terrific shock. Fronts are easily adjustable. (make sure you look closeley at the adjustment, it is backwards from what I expected... Counterclockwise stiffens, clockwise softens).

Rears are another story.

You must:
1) remove the shock/spring assembly from the rear of the car
1a) mark the current alignment settings
1b) detach the sway bar links from the rear lower control arm
1c) detach the headlight-leveling switch link (if you have one)
1d) detach the lower rear control arm from the center of the car
1e) detach the shock from inside the trunk
1f) detach the shock from the wheel carrier
2) Remove the spring from the shock
3) Completely compress the shock to engage the adjuster
4) Re-install the spring
5) Re-install the shock/spring assembly back into the car, reversing the above steps.


Some folks get away without 1a-1d, but only with a lot of blood, sweat, and swears.

All of the above having been said, this process, with some practice, takes approx 45 minutes.

At their stiffest setting, the Koni yellows are marvelous on a smooth track. On a rough or ripply surface, it seems to work better to have them dialed back about 20%.

 

Yup, I plan on picking up a set of Koni shocks over the winter.

As far as my 8 autoX debut, I've done a lot better. My club has some pretty good drivers, and running on the stock Dunlops probably doesn't help. I think the suspension settings are working for me. It would rotate, but was very easy to catch. There was too much understeer at times, but that probably has more to do with improper entry speeds and steering inputs on my part. There are still two more events this year to practice, and I'm going to winter drive it, so there will be lots of low traction opportunities to get a feel for the car.

I'm not sure about getting a different sway bar, I have a bit of research to do on that, and if there is a deal on one over the winter, I'll consider it.