whiterex

Finally got everything mounted, put together, ect.-

OEM wheels - Thanks again teamrx8

Khumo V700's - Thanks again ulllose

K&N drop in filter

Alignment - this is what it is, not sure how its going to drive yet...
camber - -1 deg front -1.5 deg rear
(the guy said that was the most he could do in front)
caster - 6 deg
front - 1/8 total toe out ( 1/16 each)
rear - 1/8 total toe in (1/16 each)

I am basing the alignment specs on my experience with the miata and my neglecting to do a search here. My tire guy recomended an alignment guy this morning, since he(the tire guy) was a little backed up, I went ahead and got the alignment.

This may not be the best BS setup, but it has to be better than bone stock. I'll see this weekend.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good.... Our car only had -1 front on the first alingment, car had about 500 miles on it. Took it back after a few months and a few thousand miles and we were able to get more.

whiterex

What camber were you able to get in the front. In the rear the guy was able to get 2.1 deg.

mp5

Don't feel too bad, I was only able to get -.8 in the front and I think around -1.9 in the back. A few people have reported being able to get more with a 2nd alignment or after putting shocks on. I've only had it done once... will probably have it done again in a few months to see if I can get more front camber.

whiterex

was that after the koni shocks?

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Got a -1.22ish with stock shocks after a few thousand miles and some events. With the konis I was -1.28ish. The shocks made less difference than some miles.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

-1.6 LF and -2.1 RF

whiterex

Wierd... I guess it will be kind of case sensitive.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

sometimes the details count

John V

iTrader: (1)

But your Konis still have the gas charging, correct?

whiterex

I see... not trying to pry.

Sparky

I'm at -1.3 on both sides with Konis and the car properly weighted. -1.2 with no weight. Car has 42k miles on it. The Konis are unmodified.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Yes, stock konis.

whiterex

Well... Our event got canceled today due to "military operations". I suppose that's what we get for trying to run on an airstrip.

So a bunch of us decided to go out for a test n tune. Like I have said before, we have a venue that has a skid pad and a mile or so road course. I had some interesting results. We set up a 50 ft. diameter circle the measure g forces. I went ahead and threw on the v700's, which were quite slick at first. I am thinking since ulllose used them for rain tires, they probably were not shaved. Again, I don't know. After I got a little heat in the tires, I averaged 1.02 g's on the circle. The concrete isn't perfectly level, so I averaged going left and going right. 1.04 turning right, 1.0 turning left. That was running tire pressures of 42psi in front, and 38psi in the rear. I tried several different tire pressure combos, this was the most g's. I was suprised at the cars tendancy to push. All in all, it was an educational day.

The body roll of the car was pretty bad as well. I think that some new koni's will help that problem a bit.

The camber setup seemed to work, there was only a 10 degree at most difference from inside to outside of the tires. The tires fit great, no rubbing issues.

John V

iTrader: (1)

Were you using a g-tech to measure g-forces?

If so I wouldn't put much stock in those g-numbers.

whiterex

Didn't use the actual "g tech". It is similiar though. Not an accurate way to do it? I am very open to suggestions. With those tire pressures, the wear was good, and the temps were good.

PedalFaster

Any G-meter that just uses accelerometers without cross-correlation with a GPS receiver (e.g. Geez, GTech) is going to get confused by body roll and sliding; this will introduce error into the data.

whiterex

That makes sense. Is there anything in the market that can give accurate data without the use of a gps?

clyde

a stop watch, tape measure and driving the exact radius with a little math sprinkled in will tell you