Light Weight Batteries
So my POS AAA battery that came in my 8 is finally dead. I want to throw a lighter battery in there and was wondering which would really be the best choice. I have seen mention of a few different ones(Odyssey PC680 battery, Braille, etc.) in and out of other threads.
I am wondering what spec I am looking for or which would be the best choice, since during my search I found mention of needed a decent amount of CCA for the RX8 over other vehs. It will be staying in the engine bay, so it needs to be Lead Acid/AGM due to heat. Braille B129 Advanced AGM Upgrade GTX12-BS Odyssey PC680 Tirerack listed this one, but no idea what part # it is. different specs from other Braille (I officially hate TR's new website) Reg Braille line up http://www.jegs.com/p/Braille-Batter...rPage=60&pno=1 looks like the is also CF versions too from Braille http://www.jegs.com/p/Braille-Batter...rPage=60&pno=1 It is my daily and I will be putting a battery tender on it too, as that will most likely be needed. Any help would be great as currently the car is dead, so I need something soon. |
After trying to compare a few it looks like the CF versions are just cosmetic, there are similiar specs and weights from the normal Braille series.
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I run a PC925 relocated to the trunk. It is not the lightest battery but it is a lot lighter than the one I had and it performs well. The smaller ones are a PIA IMO on a street car. My buddy also runs the PC925 and Hoss-05 runs the Odyssey 35-PC1400T but you don't save much weight there.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a920ea7f4f.jpg |
CCA > Minimal Weight Savings
You can save all the weight you want, but your car cranking like a '67 VW beetle is embarrasing. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4696267)
I run a PC925 relocated to the trunk. It is not the lightest battery but it is a lot lighter than the one I had and it performs well. The smaller ones are a PIA IMO on a street car. My buddy also runs the PC925 and Hoss-05 runs the Odyssey 35-PC1400T but you don't save much weight there.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a920ea7f4f.jpg Dammit why don't I live in SARX |
This was all answered in the other battery threads
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Sweet setup 9k, I just don't want to relocate.
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I tried PC690 and it worked fine. However, it is easy to drain the battery if you dont use the car often or leave the key in the ignition for too long, etc.
Best to keep it on a trickle charger when not in use. These batteries do not like the heat so best to get the battery relocated. |
My battery is relocated and it makes it so much easier to work under the hood. There's also space to store frozen foods so they thaw out pretty quickly.
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Originally Posted by Tofu*Monster
(Post 4696431)
Sweet setup 9k, I just don't want to relocate.
That and the end result was also covered. |
Originally Posted by Tofu*Monster
(Post 4696431)
Sweet setup 9k, I just don't want to relocate.
Originally Posted by Legot
(Post 4696497)
My battery is relocated and it makes it so much easier to work under the hood. There's also space to store frozen foods so they thaw out pretty quickly.
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after the reply's and reading through the other threads more, I decided to save the $$ on the battery and put it into a different area of my STX build. NOt sure what yet, still researching at this point. Thanks guys
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I'm running PC680 in the same battery location. As relocation of the battery to the trunk will disqualify me from RWD street-class time attacks.
Cranks well, but if the battery is connected and you don't move the car for 2+ days, the battery will be drained. Anti-gravity Lithium Battery will be a good alternative. |
Well my battery died last week, a few days before I was heading to the track... Tirerack had free next day shipping to my zip on a 17 lbs lightweight racing AGM Braille battery so I went for it. Would have picked the 21 lbs version, but was not in stock.
Fit into the stock box rotated 90 degrees (so snug left and right, but space in front and behind). Used the included J-hooks (as they have more thread which is needed to get lower), the factory metal clamp, and cut the sides of the box a little so I could route the cables to the lower battery posts. Works like a champ and did not budge while pulling as much as 1.4G under braking and through the turns. Will see how it lasts. I guess I am looking at $200 every 1-2 years, rather than $150 every 5-7 years, plus needing to charge it, or at least leave it disconnected when I don't use the car for more than a couple of days. That seems a reasonable price to me to take ~19lbs of lead off the nose of the car. Since the battery box is still basically stock, another option would be to pick up a full sized battery for daily use, and just swap in the Braille for track or auto-x weekends. I already swap wheels and brakes, but will see how this one holds up before going down that path. |
Originally Posted by blu3dragon
(Post 4716031)
Will see how it lasts. I guess I am looking at $200 every 1-2 years, rather than $150 every 5-7 years, plus needing to charge it, or at least leave it disconnected when I don't use the car for more than a couple of days. That seems a reasonable price to me to take ~19lbs of lead off the nose of the car.
Many Braille batteries are just over-priced, relabeled Dekas (though they swear they are not). Buy the Deka instead and save money. Also they should last 5-7 years easy or you are getting garbage batteries or not maintaining them (allowing them to discharge). When you are not using the car, get an intelligent battery maintainer. Or a solar charger if you don't park in a garage/near an outlet. The 2 Amp Schumacher maintainers can be had for $25 from Wally World. There are "AGM-specific" battery maintainers that don't hurt, but they are not required unless you use crap AGM batteries (*cough* Optima *cough*). |
^good to know, thanks. I needed one in a hurry and so did not do much research. I think I actually paid 180. It does look the same as the Deka and that would be much cheaper!
If I get 5 years out of mine, then I will be pretty stoked. |
Since you failed to read the old threads, be advised that those batteries respond to the typical RX8 engine bay temperatures by losing capacity and/or having a short lifespan
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Thank you for the info guys now I'm looking at getting a Deka, quick question though has anyone every played around with some sort of insulation for the battery so it does not get as heat soaked?
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I use a U1R tractor battery. I've used this battery in 3 other cars as well for multiple seasons. Starts fine down in the 30F range. weighs about 18ish pounds. and very cheap.
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Originally Posted by hufflepuff
(Post 4752268)
I use a U1R tractor battery. I've used this battery in 3 other cars as well for multiple seasons. Starts fine down in the 30F range. weighs about 18ish pounds.
EverStart Lawn & Garden Battery, Group Size U1R-7 - Walmart.com |
:lol:
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I'm surprised the alternator isn't cooking the smaller capacity batteries. What kind of life do you get out of the battery since it likely deeply discharges during an RX-8 start.
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The diehard is rated at 340 CCA. spend more to get the higher rated CCA versions.
I've had one in my integra NASA time trials car for 3 years going strong. Had one in the RX8 for about 6 months now. turns over the engine fairly strongly. engine cranks right up on cold mornings. I know it seems small, but my integra, RX8, and old eagle talon never had issues starting under any circumstances. you'll find plenty of autocrossers using batteries such as this one, or smaller. If you have low compression, maybe it's a different story since you need all the cranking power you can get, but for a reasonably healthy engine I've had great results. I've also let the car sit for about a week and it fired right up. |
Originally Posted by wannawankel
(Post 4752329)
I'm surprised the alternator isn't cooking the smaller capacity batteries. What kind of life do you get out of the battery since it likely deeply discharges during an RX-8 start.
in addition, cranking at 300A for 10 seconds removes less than one amp-hour, while the battery contains more than 30amp-hours, so you could do plenty of start attempts. |
I have replaced the OEM battery with a Deka for Harley Davidson in the engine bay (-10kg).
No problems with engine bay temps or cranking (I don't live in Texas, NA engine with OEM runners). The only thing to avoid is the battery fully discharge (i.e. in winter time) by using a battery charger/maintainer (like any gel battery) : if not you are ready for a battery replacement. My car is not a daily driving one. Presently there is not AC, nor alarm system but this modification has been made when the car were not that "extreme". MTBF 2y without charger-mainainer, 3+(since the last replacement is the same) with. This mod is not intended for cars exposed to cold winter temps for long times (i.e. parking the car outside at -10°C for hours). Best regards |
Originally Posted by vcoil
(Post 4773015)
I have replaced the OEM battery with a Deka for Harley Davidson in the engine bay (-10kg).
No problems with engine bay temps or cranking (I don't live in Texas, NA engine with OEM runners). The only thing to avoid is the battery fully discharge (i.e. in winter time) by using a battery charger/maintainer (like any gel battery) : if not you are ready for a battery replacement. My car is not a daily driving one. Presently there is not AC, nor alarm system but this modification has been made when the car were not that "extreme". MTBF 2y without charger-mainainer, 3+(since the last replacement is the same) with. This mod is not intended for cars exposed to cold winter temps for long times (i.e. parking the car outside at -10°C for hours). Best regards |
I'm using a 480 CCA version of this LiFePO4 battery from Bioenno Power (~4.4 lbs) mounted in my trunk. It works perfectly above 45-ish°F but struggles below that temp. Honestly, I think they may have mixed up "CA" with "CCA". I swap it for a cheap lead-acid battery in the winter and bring the LiFePO4 in the house (never charge a lithium battery below 32°F).
If you go with them, I'd recommend one of their 625 CCA or greater batteries. I think Mr. Pockets has their 1250 CCA battery and loves it. |
I have a 15# Braile with mounting bracket I'll let go for cheap if anyone is interested (see it in my build thread). It struggles with a series 2 starter but is fine with series 1.
AC |
Originally Posted by hufflepuff
(Post 4752268)
I use a U1R tractor battery. I've used this battery in 3 other cars as well for multiple seasons. Starts fine down in the 30F range. weighs about 18ish pounds. and very cheap.
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Downside with the U1R is it's still a flooded-cell battery. It can leak battery acid on the track and wreak havoc on the metal around the tray. Not as big a deal on the '8 as it was on the FD or SA22C, but I'd rather not have to think about it.
USA-made Deka ETX-30L AGM can be had for $95 delivered. It will easily last 7-8 years with proper use of a maintainer. Not as light as a U1R (+5 lb), but lasts longer, full starting power, and I never have to think about it. I do use a U1R in my Honda Insight. Literally $20 at Wallyworld versus $120 for even the cheapest "correct" battery. :) $95 Deka link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deka-ETX30L...nd!21224!US!-1 |
will be on Dominion this Sunday (april 7th), are you around?
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5 Attachment(s)
This show up along with my other part from japan at first I thought is Pc680
I Never like PC680 used many of it back in the day , just barely enought to use on production track car......... But this look like a Jdm version of PC680 Call LB680 with higher CCA too !!!! Since is free I decide give it a try on recondion it After recondion with. Normal slow charge it 8hr for 3 days then charge again use AGM charger , discharge it with junk fuel pump at shop pumping ATF at bckcket to 11.5V. Charge back with digital high volt and variable amp cgarger , with CA 405amp look like I might try it on my 8 to test it I will relocate it to firewall to.avoid heat Japanese link http://www.projection.co.jp/od02.html |
Better you than me, one of my least favorite batteries. I paid 10x more for a 9 pound battery with 1000CCA and never had to think about it again; still going strong 8 or 9 years later and has an internal auto shutoff to avoid drainage. Some things are worth the hassle-free factor.
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I have a 680. Crossing my fingers....
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Originally Posted by RE-Vision
(Post 4890863)
I have a 680. Crossing my fingers....
How about u ? |
Originally Posted by Diyman25
(Post 4890867)
I am moving to firewall away from heat
How about u ? |
I never could get one to last more than a year at best with the engine bay heat because they’re only rated for 140*F max without a metal jacket and 176*F max with one; Braille, Odyssey, etc all have that general limit. Mounting it on the firewall is no help when everything in the engine bay heat soaking well over 200*F. Even back in the trunk I still had issues with them being weak, especially on a cold morning. That was 10+ years ago so maybe they’re better now. I’d still recommend the 925 over the 680 for general rotary engine use. Quickest way to flood a rotary is slow startup from dead cold. Maybe not so much of an issue in SoCal.
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I never could get one to last more than a year at best with the engine bay heat because they’re only rated for 140*F max without a metal jacket and 176*F max with one; Braille, Odyssey, etc all have that general limit. Mounting it on the firewall is no help when everything in the engine bay heat soaking well over 200*F. Even back in the trunk I still had issues with them being weak, especially on a cold morning. That was 10+ years ago so maybe they’re better now. I’d still recommend the 925 over the 680 for general rotary engine use. Quickest way to flood a rotary is slow startup from dead cold. Maybe not so much of an issue in SoCal.
. Back to odyssey, plus sides on mounting firewall Can reduce length of battery cable, this will be plus on some thing like 680, infact 90% of battery relocation kit sell in Japan mount it on firewall, but I think with RHD side set up , mounting on right side of firewall is pretty far from heat source Unlike LHD, I think I will build heat shield under it |
I've been using an STZ14S in my car for more than a year now with zero issues. No problem starting cold those first couple autox of the year.
27 bucks on battery sharks. |
My new track toy was delivered today. PC680 in the trunk. 6 months old. Always on a tender or unplugged. It started to put it on the trailer; would not start to take it off the trailer. The owner said he was replacing it at least yearly, but he was puzzled, because they usually swell before they fail. :o
If the post orientation is correct, I'll probably just replace it with a Miata AGM battery and call it good. |
Deka AGM still $95 (though now they charge for delivery): https://www.ebay.com/itm/112443224168
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Originally Posted by MikeTyson8MyKids
(Post 4890930)
I've been using an STZ14S in my car for more than a year now with zero issues. No problem starting cold those first couple autox of the year.
27 bucks on battery sharks. that price is crazy low too :shocking: |
Originally Posted by wankelbolt
(Post 4891124)
Deka AGM still $95 (though now they charge for delivery): https://www.ebay.com/itm/112443224168
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I’ve run the same Ballistic 16 cell for many years. Doesn’t need an enclosure mounted in the interior since it’s dry cell, weight 3.5 lb, never once needed to be on a charger, starts the LS1 at any reasonable temp I’ve tried (freezing and above), and even survived the roll-over when the battery mount (the passenger frame rail) was ripped out of the car (yes it was as scary as that sounds) and the battery ended up hanging by the cables. Couple hundred bucks and couldn’t have asked more from the battery.
Cameron |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4891141)
Yeah, I’ve concluded if you want a small battery that an AGM type may be better than an Odyssey etc.
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Ok, my bad. :( For some reason I was thinking otherwise; probably because of the temp rating, but thanks for pointing out my foot is in my mouth ...
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4891141)
that price is crazy low too :shocking:
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my 8 is mainly track toy so I just need it to start spring to fall and to/on/from the track.
From what is listed here I have these options: - STZ14S $40 230 CCA 11.2AH and 7.62lbs - Deka ETX20L $95 310 CCA 18AH and 14.3lbs - Odyssey PC680 $110 170 CCA 16AH and 15.4lbs - DieHard UR1 $55 340 CCA 30AH and 18.2lbs - Deka ETX-30L $105 400 CCA 26AH and 23lbs - Diehard stock size $169 640 CCA and 39lbs I think I will give STZ14S a try, not much to loose if it does not work out. Deka seems like a decent plan B. https://www.batterysharks.com/Produc...0%2DK&CartID=1 |
Just to chime in, I am using the Deka ETX30L relocated to my trunk. I daily my car and have it turbocharged (quite a few extra electronics wired in to support the system) and so I needed a dependable battery but one that didn't break the bank. Starts just fine even in below freezing temps (still above 0 F mind you). Added a resettable fuse 6 inches off the positive terminal in the trunk so I can easily disconnect the battery if the car is going to sit for several day while I am out of town or something. I'm quite happy with it overall
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I'm using a Deka ETX20L in the stock location. Works well. It needs to be charged approx once per week if left connected to maintain it. Seems to last me about 2-3 years. More if maintained well, or less if it is repeatedly run flat.
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