MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

What? No A/C??

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Adam,

Thanks for the reply!
Notes below...

"Custom Water Reservoir, mounted in the space b/w the Passenger front wheel arch and the firewall." -- what is the benefit of having this? is it just so the stock one isn't blocking your hood vents? (I've never seen your cars)

"Custom Front Bumper Assembly w/ Radiator + Oil Cooler Ducting" -- can you please take pics of the radiator ducting and oil cooler ducting if you have time?

"ReMedy Water Pump" -- seems to work in my opinion

"Modified Thermostat Housing" -- what is the benefit of this? I don't know enough about t-stats

"Complete A/N Water Lines and Oil lines using Aeroquip Startlite Hose" -- are these steel braided silicone lines? any benefit outside of better longevity?

"Setrab oil Coolers" -- can you link me to this? are theya direct replacement for the stock oil coolers?

"Custom 3" Dual pass radiator." -- pics of this would be much welcomed if you have time.

"Spal Extreme High Performance Fan, turned on by a dashboard switch by the driver." -- pics and linky if you have time.

"Remote HP1 Oil filter is mounted to the crossmember, behind the radiator." -- what is the benefit of this? is it just fo faster removal of the oil filter? stock location is a major pain, i know

Thanks,
Fil

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

cool suit
Great info and thanks Roar!
Wasnt as hot this August at Rd Atlanta *** last yr was it? I came by to see ya but you were busy doing something--cant remember. I almost caught one of your cars at Roebling! That was fun.
I hear you about sustained temps. And Mazda oem thermostat doesnt even fully open til 205!
with the a/c i dont know if we could do it with a single fan--that dang condenser changes a lot of things when used. i think it causes more of the heat probs than many realize.
thats one reason i went with a secondary radiator separated from the other stuff. since it worked ok and looked like it would support a 180F thermostat i did it the hard way(cr racing has a inline one for $150).
I also remoted my filter with AN lines--i didnt think about the area you used--hmmmm.
seen the cool fin yet?
a high of 200F (street/track) is what I am trying to get too--maybe 210-- if i stay in ambient temps below 95(on track) i think i am there now.
again thanks for the info!
Next time I am going to catch ya! Going for a 1:44 at RA!!
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

roar runs a mazdaspeed front-- the ducting is just solid , with no leaks and a single fan. the lines will radiate heat much better and reliability is good.
that area get the oil filter and line somewhat in an airflow. look them up---great guys and great support for us backyard guys.
olddragger

darnellm

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Roar!
I have been fighting overheating problems on the trackfor some time.
I agree with you that the fans do not help cooling at high speed.
I didn't not consider that they actually restrict the air flow.
I monitor the temps leaving the radiator (where do the rest of you guys have your sensor?) and start short shifting when I see 230 F . Ducting the radiator sounds like the key. I will start by replacing the undertray with a solid sheet of aluminium

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

If you want to save money, skip the aluminum undertray and just use lots of foam to seal the gaps between the radiator and the undertray bottom, sides and the gap between the top of the radiator and the front crash beam.

darnellm

iTrader: (1)

I have sealed around the rad. When I look into the front nose it is apparent that the undertray is allowing alot of the air to bypass the rad. There is alot of opening in the undertray and it does a poor job of ducting the air. The other area that requires sealing is around the CAI where it goes thru the front bulkhead.

racewithroar

Jeff,

There have been several instances that I have wished we did still have the A/C!



Fil,

Getting rid of the small plastic reservoir allowed us to make one with both a higher capacity and make one out of aluminum so that we could use the A/N lines. We have around 3 gallon water capacity with all of our cooling system combined. Just so happens that the location we put it was open and made it easily mountable using stock studs that were already there. We don't have any hood vents, but the location is much better regardless.

To use the A/N lines we have to weld on A/N bungs to the ports on the thermostat housing. Beyond that we plug the radiator bypass hole to force all the water through the radiator. That is essentially what a thermostat does - as the water heats up it causes the metal in the thermostat to expand, thus pushing a plunger over the radiator bypass hole. This is necessary especially in winter driving so that the driver doesn't tax the motor too much before it is warm enough for proper driving.

Thus we don't recommend leaving the radiator bypass hole plugged during winter months. Unless you plan on letting your car idle for a good bit of time before getting in and driving it.


The StartLite hose is actually a Nomex/Kevlar weave outside of an elastomer inner tube. It's not stainless steel but is still armor braided and fire resistant, and it actually much lighter than the SS lines. Plus it doesn't tear your hands apart when you try and work with it. The use of A/N lines is much safer - the lines are more resistant to puncture, abrasion, etc. Plus the fittings used seal much better and if you find one leaking... just tighten it up a bit more!


http://www.setrabusa.com/oilcoolers.htm

Setrab oil coolers are not direct replacements for the stock oil coolers. Our custom front end includes the mount brackets for them. Stock oil coolers are actually quite good and many RX-8 race teams still use them. We wanted more cooling though, and wanted the ability to use A/N lines. These coolers gave us both and we have been quite happy with them. They come in different sizes - we use one of the middle sizes that I can't think of off the top of my head.


http://www.spalusa.com/

I will have to look up the exact model number later.


Our engine builder requires the use of strictly HP1 oil filters. They are too big to fit onto the stock location, so we use a remote filter mount made by CV Products. This gave us the ability to put it on the cross-member which does help cool it, but also makes it easily accessible. Again, with this we had the ability to use the A/N lines.


Sorry I am going to have to get you pictures next week - we are packing up tomorrow to head out to Summit Point on Wednesday and will be there through Sunday.


Darnell,

We monitor water temp using the stock engine coolant sensor. Our AiM Dash system allows us to draw much of the information we need straight from the OBDII port. Oil Temperature and Pressure, however, we monitor using analog sensors in the oil filter housing.



OD,

No thank god RA wasn't as hot this year. Saturday I actually heard whispers of it being cool in the morning! It was quite refreshing. Sorry I missed you - we were quite busy that weekend trying to take care of 4 1/2 cars. I understand about the A/C condenser. Much of what we do isn't feasible on a street car, but I am sure that you and others have or will figure out other ways of keeping the cars cool. What is this cool fin you speak of? I haven't heard of it.

Hope to see you next time!

Oh, and P.S. Andrew Carbonell (the 18 year old that has been driving with us in Grand-Am) just did a 1:40.4 at RA on that Friday!



Hope this helps everyone,

Adam

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

I used zip ties to pull the undertray up by anchoring it to that black AC screen...there are those large vent holes in the undertray that you can run the zip tie through...cheap solution and it works...forget the aluminum undertray, save some money.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

NeptuneSpeed special!

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Much appreciated Adam!
Lots of reading up / thinking to do now.
Good luck at the track and try to get those pics up when you have more time.

-Fil

OnRails

Holy crap! That's smokin in an RX-8 racecar or not. Nice job guys. I also meant to get over to say hello but didn't make it. I want to come see the ducting that you've done. Next time!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

1:40!!!! Daamn! I will wave to him as he pass's me in turn 12. Sum Bitch
cool fin is a heatsink type of mod that you can place on your tranny--diff--oil pan, oil lines, filter etc. attaches with a heat transferable glue like is being used to transfer heat away from computer chips. Made by ARC. Looks like a gimmick but it does work some. a little help is better than none.
Wish I had fins on everything.
Good Luck at Summit--hope the rain doesnt catch ya.
olddragger

darnellm

iTrader: (1)

Summit look good for Sunday. Rain is not expected until Monday.
I will look for the roar racing team tomorrow. I was signed up for time trials this weekend and was told that only two other people signed up so they cancelled it.
Went autocrossing today with the BMW club instead.
The DC region are a great group that welcomes other makes.

racewithroar

Here are some pictures that I took of the engine bay of #60 car, and some pictures of the ducting from underneath without the motor and everything else in the way. The pictures of the ducting are from another team's RX-8 that we just rebuilt for them.

I left the pictures really large so that you guys can zoom in and whatnot.

Here is a link to the photobucket folder:

http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ling%20System/


-- Adam

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Awesome pics Adam!

I just put the BHR radiator in yesterday!!
Replaced all the tension type hose clamps with the screw-tigthen type an re-sealed the radiator gaps with foam.

So far, so good!
The radiator looks awesome and is larger than stock but feels lighter.
Will be taking data over the next few days, but it won't be as valuable as track data.

New motor oil, tranny oil, and rear diff oil, so she's ready for the track again.
Planning on going to Buttonwillow on Friday Sept 26th for the final round of testing (although summer won't be in full effect anymore unfortunately).
http://www.speedventures.com/events/...il.aspx?id=180

Hope to see some of you there.