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HOW TO: Swap Series 2 Renesis into a Series 1 RX-8

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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 05:33 PM
  #26  
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ok just wondering , on the S2 motors the oil filter is at the bottom front of the engine?
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 05:35 PM
  #27  
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Yes.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 05:22 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Yeah, it's messages like this that keep me wary of simply calling it "ok to delete the OMP". There are 1 or more critical differences that enable some teams to get away with it and other not. Until those differences are spelled out, I won't ever advocate deleting the OMP.
why not assume the same engine with an operating OMP would have reached the same fate rather than choosing the assumption that fits your conviction? Not even a single question was asked before aligning to a conclusion. There are plenty of reasons why Renesis side seals may or may not fail.

SpeedSource has only had the engine contract for the last 2 years or so. The series has used Renesis engines without an OMP for 10+ years. Both Daryl Drummond an STAR built engines, not sure if there were others ...

.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #29  
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Yeah... side seals on the Renesis are just problematic in general... kinda sucks.

I have about 3 race hours (broken into 30 minute sprint races) on my series 2 now and it still runs great so far... I have another race this weekend that will put about another couple hours on it so we'll see.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by RockLobster
I know some folks have made them work (speedsource?) but we only got a couple weekends out of a S2 motor running in an S1 car. Side seals gave up and the motor went soft after i think 5 races. Premix at 1oz per gal, no omp. I think the multiple (6 total) oil injection ports on the series 2 are pretty critical improvements in the renisis that offer better oiling than premixing.

I have run older 13B engines on premix (no omp) for years of racing and not lost any compression at all. It goes back to the side seal issues of the renisis...
This was a factory motor out of a low mile salavage that made excellent compression numbers and did not appear to have a carbon problem or anything...so not some rebuild by god knows who.
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 10:03 AM
  #31  
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It fails on a scientific/logical method though

In short, you bought a used engine of unknown history and internal condition that outwardly 'appeared' to be good. You can't really use this one failure to draw such a conclusion because you have no way of being sure what you really started with. It could have easily been goid, but just short of failure and pushing it on the track was the final straw. Or you could be correct even if only guessing. Do you datalog individual exhaust port temps? Kind of doubting that you do ...

The point is, there is no way to be 100% sure what caused the failure because you can't be 100% sure what you started with beyond an assumption ...
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 02:00 PM
  #32  
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About 12 racing hours on the new motor with no issues.
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #33  
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Hi im new and have been reading this with great interest. I have a 04 that im swapping a 09 wrecked car engine into. I was hopping to get a little knowledge out of your experiences. I like the idea of pre mix but as i live in california and have smog laws i cant really do that on my street car. But from what ive seen on my new engine it looks as if its just has a extra hole on each rotor housing so i wonder can i tap an extra line from the old omp and run it to the extra sprayers.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 01:10 AM
  #34  
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Oh boy.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mikep1988
Hi im new and have been reading this with great interest. I have a 04 that im swapping a 09 wrecked car engine into. I was hopping to get a little knowledge out of your experiences. I like the idea of pre mix but as i live in california and have smog laws i cant really do that on my street car. But from what ive seen on my new engine it looks as if its just has a extra hole on each rotor housing so i wonder can i tap an extra line from the old omp and run it to the extra sprayers.

No, you're going to have to premix. No easy way to run the series 1 OMP from the series 2 motor. You may still pass smog using premix... don't know why not... but have not thought about it much.
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 08:46 PM
  #36  
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Update. This motor has taken a lot of abuse now with no problems. Power levels are great. Too great. Might have to make some changes to stay in class. Got disqualified last weekend for making too much power. 224hp at the rear wheels. This is on a dynojet dyno with a 1.07 correction factor due to altitude and the cool moist air. Strong motor none the less.
Attached Thumbnails HOW TO: Swap Series 2 Renesis into a Series 1 RX-8-nasadynosmall.jpg  
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 03:40 PM
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Good to hear!
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 05:04 PM
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no surprise ... though that's the dyno everybody B&Ms about reading too high
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
no surprise ... though that's the dyno everybody B&Ms about reading too high

Very true. Of course it reads too high because I got disqualified! HAHA! My previous motor put down 213 of this same dyno. But with changing conditions and the fact that this dyno is dragged on a trailer all around the country I wouldn't consider it super precise either. Plus it does not have a weather station.


I'm going to dyno test at a local shop sometime this month for comparison.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 05:23 PM
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Ok, so I took the RX8 to a local dyno (Dynojet) and did some more runs.


Best was 220hp at the rear wheels in 5th gear.


Best in 4th gear was 213hp which is about what I did before on a normal day on the MCE mobile dyno NASA uses (NASA always tested me in 4th before).


Therefore I believe the MCE dyno to be pretty accurate - the jump in power seems be due to testing in 5th gear rather than the 4th gear used previously and due to the cool, moist weather at the track. (Today it was dry and 85 at the dyno shop).
Copy of dyno sheet attached.
Attached Thumbnails HOW TO: Swap Series 2 Renesis into a Series 1 RX-8-rx8dynoshop.jpg  
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 05:36 PM
  #41  
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Looking good my friend ...
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #42  
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Did you guys see haltech just announced the elite 1500 and 2500 ecm do the eomp controls for the rx8 so you can use them.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 12:24 PM
  #43  
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TX

Originally Posted by mikep1988
Did you guys see haltech just announced the elite 1500 and 2500 ecm do the eomp controls for the rx8 so you can use them.
Yeah......see the thread on that topic. It's a completely useless announcement and feature.
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 02:19 PM
  #44  
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Current thread on the topic:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...upport-257991/



2010 thread that never was:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...upport-198606/


.


.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 05:28 PM
  #45  
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Man too bad it looked so good too
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:04 PM
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It may get there, just not quite yet.
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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BTW I'm surprised how much I am PREFERRING pre mixing my fuel and not having an Oil Metering Pump. Of course I rarely use my car off the race track so that's a huge factor. However, for racing purposes I'm finding it way more convenient to pre mix my fuel. I just add five ounces of 2 stroke to every fuel jug and call it a day. No more checking the motor oil level all the time and adding motor oil. The motor oil level has stayed PERFECT - no oil consumption at all!
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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yaaaaaaay (no news to me, lol)
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 07:10 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by MagnusRacing
BTW I'm surprised how much I am PREFERRING pre mixing my fuel and not having an Oil Metering Pump. Of course I rarely use my car off the race track so that's a huge factor. However, for racing purposes I'm finding it way more convenient to pre mix my fuel. I just add five ounces of 2 stroke to every fuel jug and call it a day. No more checking the motor oil level all the time and adding motor oil. The motor oil level has stayed PERFECT - no oil consumption at all!
I get the same with a sohn... but not race car

what we need is a really smart engineer to reverse engineer the S1 OMP logic into the S2 OMP housing or cook up an adapter that would allow us to mount the S1 OMP on the S2 block. It seems the easiest part would be redistribution through the 4 lines to 6.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 04:02 AM
  #50  
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This thread is about NOT using the metering pump. Contrary to forum lore no less. For those people who still need the PCM to communicate with oil metering pump and/or keep it in place there is a way to configure it internally so that it no longer meters oil through it without throwing any codes or limp mode.
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