IDK, but might as well do the lexan rear glass while your at it.

 

don't forget air conditioning, sound deadening material in the cabin too.

 

Neither are worth it for car that is still driven on the street. Track only car is a different story.

 

Go on a diet?

 

OMG no on the A/C. Even if it was a track only car my drive to the track is 2 hours and in the summer here in OK it's 85 before you even wake up. I would rather shoot myself in the face.

6'4'' ~200 lbs.. I haven't been below 195 in the last 10 years and that was at 7% body fat so i dont think me going on a diet will help.

 

That's too bad. I think I've used the AC in my RX-8 what.. maybe five times in the last four years.. so I took it out of my FD.

 

Jenny Craig
NutriSystem
SurgiLite

or alternatively

Bally's
LA Fitness
24 Hour Fitness

or alternatively

just eat Ramen for 3 weeks and that'll make it about 5 lbs lighter

 

my STX car on a low tank is almost 2700# and I can't remove the stereo, AC, or a number of other things being mentioned. You still have a long way to go, the question is are you willing to drop the dough to make it happen? Bottom line is you won't get there with most of the standard off the shelf aftermarket parts.

 

helpful. thanks for sharing.

 

Do you have to keep the interior intact for STX? I'm just curious if that 2700 number is with interior panels or not.

 

the only interior change is seats/mounts and there is a minimum weight limit of 25# for the combined weight of each seat/mount/fastener assembly, otherwise my interior is completely factory

 

Sooo i decided to go for it.. I'm not done yet but so far i've removed 48 lbs from the rear. I removed 10 lbs worth of junk out of the engine bay a couple of weeks ago so we're at a total of 58 lbs. I'm really curious to what the weight is at now but i need to finish my battery relocation so i can actually go drive it. The rest of my parts come Monday!

What i've removed from the rear is pretty much limited to interior panels, seats, seat belts etc. No speakers have been pulled yet. I'm still making up my mind on how far i want to take this project.

Engine bay (ignore the rats nest of wires my battery relocation is still in progress):


Rear:

 

wow

 

Its usually a requirement so there is nothing to get your feet or the accelerator pedal caught on... wow....

 

does the 58lbs include the battery?

 

no, here is a break down of what i removed today

Item(Quantity): Total
Seat Belt(2): 3.56 lbs
Rear Seat Back(2): 12.42 lbs
Rear Speaker Grill(2): 2.86 lbs
Center part of rear deck(1): 2.05 lbs
Plastic behind rear seat backs(2): 1.18 lbs
Interior 1/4 panel(2): 3.38 lbs
Trunk panel sides(2): 2.64 lbs
Center pass through(1): 1.76 lbs
Seat belt receivers (2): 0.96 lbs
Child seat retainers(2): 0.22 lbs
Trunk carpet(1): 2.95 lbs
Trunk plastic(1): 2.24 lbs
Trunk jack holder(1): 1.71 lbs
Rear seat bottoms(2): 10.58 lbs
Air pump(1): 2.57 lbs
ACV Valve (I think...whatever is attached to the airpump and exahust manifold)(1): 1.87 lbs
Misc engine bay parts (battery tray, engine hoist, air pump brackets, misc plastics etc 5.49 lbs

Grand total: 58.44 lbs

 

Rear:
[/QUOTE]

Looks like mine except I dont have the metal cross braces in. I have the GTSPEC 4 pt strut brace which replaces that weight. Oh and i don't have STATUS seats

 

I would love to ditch those for the GT spec brace eventually. How much does it weigh? I don't think I've seen a confirmed weight for it yet.

Anyone want to chime in an let us know if a rear tower brace serves the same function as the cross braces behind the seats? For track duty that is.

 

next time I remove it I will weigh it but hand in hand... it feels about the same

 

ditch the front strut brace as well as all that other aftermarket brace crap

otherwise I still have all those parts, lol

....

 

Team ...... tell me everything you know...

 

getting weight out of the rear is easy, not so easy in the front once you move the battery and get rid of the air box. This is why the RacingBrake 2-pc rotor with aluminum caliper front brake kit is highly recommended by me (OE size with open curved slots kit is the lightest). That's at least 24 lbs right there, another 4lbs off the rear if you get the matching 2-pc open curved slot rear rotors from them too.

base 2005 car; no traction control or other crap

I don't run a front strut brace and didn't install any other aftermarket bracing

aluminum racing shocks with aluminum mounts and 2.25" springs chops weight

fully custom exhaust with ultra thin T321 stainless piping and lightweight cat/mufflers (my entire system; manifold, cat, three mufflers, and piping weighs less than the OE catback exhaust). Dropped 7.75 lbs out of it last week by replacing the more durable but heavy stainless mesh muffler packing with course stainless steel wool instead, just has to be repacked annually now but I found a great deal on 10 lb spools of 4" wide SS wool so I have plenty and it's not that difficult to pack them.

dropped 28 lbs getting rid of all the aero and appearance package bodywork that I has previously installed, it was all just dead weight for autox, never really kicked in until 70+ mph

Li-ion racing battery & aluminum mount, now weighs 10.75 lbs after I spent two hours cutting 3/4 lb out of the mount today, yet has 3x-4x the capacity of your PC680

picked up a set of early 1-pc SSR Comp Type C 17 x 9 wheels and some light tires too, mounted wheel/tire is only 38 lbs each plus much smaller OD means extra gearing and less inertia

lots of odds and ends, couple pounds here, a pound there, half a pound there, it starts to add up if you really push it

added a pound filling the OE motor mounts with urethane, lol ...

 

more....

 

Dmed... I don't think he can tell you all his secrets lol... And I'm curious as to why your car is stripped like that?

 

I agree on the aftermarket brace crap but with a front and rear strut set-up you gain about 0.2Gs on 225\45 street tyres (re050) in fast corners (70 or so mph).
The test tool was a crappy Gtech pro rr though, not 100% accurate for sure.
Still worth it for track use, imho.
I'd surely stay away from multi-point heavy rear bars though.