Mazdagirl

OK guys I need some help =)

I'm trying to get the new rx8 set up for next yr and hope to have her good enough to compete at National events and not come in last =)

I'm soooo clueless as to what size, brand of racing wheels I need. What size tires...
I have 18' on there now and want to stay in B stock class.

I know getting new shocks,exhaust,brakes,sway bar will help also.

What do you all think about me just getting wheels, tires, shocks, sway bar for now? Think that would be some what competitive? Limited budget is holding back other stuff ATM =/

Beth =)

edj

Beth,

See this thread: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/autox-stock-class-priority-mods-91641/

All you need are:

1) Another set of OEM 18" wheels
2) Kumho V710 or Hoosier A6 tires 245/35/18
3) Koni SA (yellow) shocks
4) Alignment

that will get you 90% there. the rest are nice to have but not required.

edj

Razz1

Not really, you forgot the number one secrect.

PRACTICE

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

DO NOT BUY HOOSIER A6 TIRES!!!! Get the Kumho V710 tires, more competitive and much longer life too.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

+1. There are more expensive, lightweight wheels out there, but a spare set of OEMs is an excellent budget choice. Conversely, you can get whatever you want for street wheels, and use your current OEMs for race tires. Add a set of sticky tires, a set of Koni shocks, a good alignment, keep the stock front bar (most of the top cars are on the OEM front bar), and you're good to go.

PedalFaster

Nitpick: last I heard, Jason had the MazdaSpeed bar, and Joe had a modified (slightly stiffer) OEM bar. Neither of those are significantly stiffer than OEM, though.

John V

iTrader: (1)

And we have the TRX8 bar which is slightly stiffer than OEM.

Oh wait, you said "top cars." HAHAAhahahaha

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

Don't jump on the Koni yellows. They are good but the rears aren't adjustable while on the car, so you have to compromise - you can go full stiff for best autocross performance, but sacrifice street comfort and, arguably, handling/safety, or you go softer and sacrifice transition speed while autocrossing.

The Tokico D-Specs are adjustable while on the car. I've autocrossed both a Koni equipped car and my car (with the Tokicos) back-to-back, both cars set to full stiff, both with a drilled front OEM sway, same wheel/tire package (OEM wheels with well-used 710s) and a similar, but not-quite-identical alignment, and honestly I couldn't detect a difference in transitional stiffness. The D-Specs are very good, and unless you plan to convert the Konis to double-adjustables I see no reason to buy them.

And, I think I still prefer the un-drilled OEM bar. Going with drilled at nats because that's what I have right now, but I may switch back to an un-drilled bar next year.

Speedtoys

I burn thru Tokiko illuminati's in 2-3 weekends in my 83 rx7 road racer, I try to never use Tokiko struts on anything because of it.

If the rules didnt require em, I wouldnt use em.

I wouldnt mind Yellows on the car in the rear, just dont use a larger sway bar..at all..

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

And I put 4 years of daily driving, autocross, and track events on my Illuminas on my Miata, both with stock spring rates and GC sleeves, and had no blow outs, burn outs, etc. Many others in the Miata community have had the same results.

Besides, the D-Specs are not the same as the Illuminas.